How do you fix/remove rear window surround trim?

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crashcaptn

crashcaptn

1965 Dodge Dart GT
Joined
Jan 15, 2007
Messages
637
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95
Location
San Diego, CA
Someone "Helped" me put my car cover on and it grabbed this piece of trim on my back window.. needless to say everyone who sees the car now says "HEY HEY JEFF HEY DID YOU KNOW THIS IS LIKE THIS?! HEY LOOK" and so.. yeah.. everyone yes. I see it. I really do know.

I found a new trim piece (even have the two "L's" on each side) but.. scared to try and remove this piece myself.

Does anyone in the San Diego area know how to take this thing off? Or can show me? I've called multiple window repair places and everyone's confused because it's not a Prius.

-Jeff

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Subscribed, my son's 70 swinger with vinyl top has the trim piece in the same spot as yours just barely starting to lift up on the joint ,( about 4 inches long ). Not sure if there is a clip of some kind that has broke?? :popcorn::popcorn:
 
Find a shop where there’s a guy who knows how to rope in a rear window. He’ll know how to remove the window trim.

Its usually going to be the guy that’s 50+ in age unless he’s passed on the art.

Make a few phone calls, the answer is out there.
 
Good luck. I'm watching this post. That trim is hard to find and the clips are even harder. Some of the clips on mine were rusted away but the trim was just lifted. I used windshield butyl because I new next time it has to come out. That is to nice of a car to butcher up. Call you insurance company. I'm sure the fix will not be cheap. :-(
 
Hellrats said:
Good luck. I'm watching this post. That trim is hard to find and the clips are even harder. Some of the clips on mine were rusted away but the trim was just lifted. I used windshield butyl because I new next time it has to come out. That is to nice of a car to butcher up. Call you insurance company. I'm sure the fix will not be cheap. :-(
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Yah thanks it's been harder to find someone than I thought - I have the piece and the "L's" but no clips.. I did just discover an autobody place nearby that specializes in old cars.. may check him out next weekend when the rain lets up unless someone here magically goes "Dude I know how to do that I'll fix it right now and I'll give you a ton of free beer too".
 
Yea I'm sorry. That sucks. That trim looks really bad. But I see you are in CA. so you have a better chance than us on the east side. I feel for you buddy.
 
Been using this Lisle trim removal tool for decades, works fine. You hook one of the ends on the clip underneath the trim and it pops the trim off. With the piece you have there you can basically grab the bent end and pull it towards yourself, it will slip out of the trim clips.

Trim removal tool.jpg
 
Hellrats said:
Yea I'm sorry. That sucks. That trim looks really bad. But I see you are in CA. so you have a better chance than us on the east side. I feel for you buddy.
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Thanks man. yeah its pretty ugly..!

HemiSSDart said:
Been using this Lisle trim removal tool for decades, works fine. You hook one of the ends on the clip underneath the trim and it pops the trim off. With the piece you have there you can basically grab the bent end and pull it towards yourself, it will slip out of the trim clips.

View attachment 1715675472
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Great! Whatcha doing Saturday? haha
 
I would expect to find more than 1 or 2 clips have rusted away. Best plan is remove all the trim, glass, and gasket. to replace all the clips. You might need a new gasket also. Good luck with it.
 
Clips are available and that removal tool is cheap. I think I bought one off the shelf at Napa one time. Even if you bend or break a clip, it's not a big deal and way better than bending the trim. Some of the clips will break free with very little force and other ones seem to be holding on for dear life so expect to struggle with some of them.
 
The specialty tool certainly helps, but, you can make one or use a couple of screw drivers if you're real careful. It's a matter of triggering the clip to release the molding. It sort of fish-hooks the edge of the molding. Your lower molding looks like it will need replacing, so, I'd start with trying to remove that first. Use a putty knife or similar to slightly pry the inner edge of the molding on the bent end away from the glass/gasket. Then slide whatever tool you choose along the groove on the outer edge of the molding to locate the clip. Then the tricky part is trying to convince the clip to let go of the molding. Once you have done a couple, you'll get a better idea of how they're fastened. I agree that you will probably have to pull all the moldings, the glass, and the gasket to replace the clips and reinstall everything. If the gasket is still fairly pliable, that can be saved and reused if need be. Check for availability on that first before you tackle it. I'd have the new gasket in hand before deciding to cut the old one.
 
ESP47 said:
Clips are available and that removal tool is cheap. I think I bought one off the shelf at Napa one time. Even if you bend or break a clip, it's not a big deal and way better than bending the trim. Some of the clips will break free with very little force and other ones seem to be holding on for dear life so expect to struggle with some of them.
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Sounds scary. This is the kind of body work that sounds best left to the professionals..

RedFish said:
I would expect to find more than 1 or 2 clips have rusted away. Best plan is remove all the trim, glass, and gasket. to replace all the clips. You might need a new gasket also. Good luck with it.
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cudamark said:
The specialty tool certainly helps, but, you can make one or use a couple of screw drivers if you're real careful. It's a matter of triggering the clip to release the molding. It sort of fish-hooks the edge of the molding. Your lower molding looks like it will need replacing, so, I'd start with trying to remove that first. Use a putty knife or similar to slightly pry the inner edge of the molding on the bent end away from the glass/gasket. Then slide whatever tool you choose along the groove on the outer edge of the molding to locate the clip. Then the tricky part is trying to convince the clip to let go of the molding. Once you have done a couple, you'll get a better idea of how they're fastened. I agree that you will probably have to pull all the moldings, the glass, and the gasket to replace the clips and reinstall everything. If the gasket is still fairly pliable, that can be saved and reused if need be. Check for availability on that first before you tackle it. I'd have the new gasket in hand before deciding to cut the old one.
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Gasket. Check. I'll get one and expect the worst.. sounds like a vintage body shop may be the way to go with this job.. and expect a decent bill at the same time.. Thank you everybody!
 
crashcaptn said:
Sounds scary. This is the kind of body work that sounds best left to the professionals..





Gasket. Check. I'll get one and expect the worst.. sounds like a vintage body shop may be the way to go with this job.. and expect a decent bill at the same time.. Thank you everybody!
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I think this is getting blown out of proportion. It can be a simple job. I see no reason to put in a new gasket. New gaskets suck by the way. Nobody wants that job. Does the window leak? Is it original paint. It doesn't look like a rust bucket to me. @Mark Wainwright
 
crashcaptn said:
Someone "Helped" me put my car cover on and it grabbed this piece of trim on my back window.. needless to say everyone who sees the car now says "HEY HEY JEFF HEY DID YOU KNOW THIS IS LIKE THIS?! HEY LOOK" and so.. yeah.. everyone yes. I see it. I really do know.

I found a new trim piece (even have the two "L's" on each side) but.. scared to try and remove this piece myself.

Does anyone in the San Diego area know how to take this thing off? Or can show me? I've called multiple window repair places and everyone's confused because it's not a Prius.

-Jeff

View attachment 1715675396
Click to expand...
Hi Jeff. I was in the auto-glass trade for 18 yrs and weaned on these cars. There should be a clip about every 6-8 inches. If the clip is just pushed forward and won't hold the molding. Simply cut a piece of rubber and slide it in between the clip and the rubber. To remove the molding you should be able to buy the proper tool from an automotive supply shop. Being from Canada I'm not familiar with some of the business names. Is it Pet Boys? They are fairly cheap. The tool goes down between the molding and the rubber and you should be able to feel the clip. You can practice on the old molding. I see someone had given you a picture what the tool looks like. If the clip is broken you can sneak the new clip in place. You can buy a GM clip that you can use or a Ford one will also work. The GM one is on the left (red) or the Ford one on the right (green). You just have to be careful. You won't break the glass because it's protected buy the gasket.
IMG_0155.jpg

If you have any questions just ask. I'd be happy to help you
 
A lot is going to depend on how rusty the clips and screws are in deciding whether to pull the glass and gasket or not. Sometimes you just can't get a good angle on the screws with the glass in place. If there's rust in the trough, now's the time to take care of that too.
 
crashcaptn said:
Sounds scary. This is the kind of body work that sounds best left to the professionals..





Gasket. Check. I'll get one and expect the worst.. sounds like a vintage body shop may be the way to go with this job.. and expect a decent bill at the same time.. Thank you everybody!
Click to expand...

It's not scary at all. Just buy that tool in post 7. That bottom piece of trim is already trash so just practice on that piece until you get the hang of it. The tool slides in between the seal and the trim. Not the trim and the body. If you break a clip, a new one literally just screws in with a small screw.

I wouldn't mess with a window seal unless you absolutely have to. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. That's especially true with front and rear window seals since it's getting harder and harder to find people that are able to seal them up properly.
 
ESP47 said:
It's not scary at all. Just buy that tool in post 7. That bottom piece of trim is already trash so just practice on that piece until you get the hang of it. The tool slides in between the seal and the trim. Not the trim and the body. If you break a clip, a new one literally just screws in with a small screw.

I wouldn't mess with a window seal unless you absolutely have to. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. That's especially true with front and rear window seals since it's getting harder and harder to find people that are able to seal them up properly.
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Simple as hell if you know how to do it.
 
Mark Wainwright said:
Hi Jeff. I was in the auto-glass trade for 18 yrs and weaned on these cars. There should be a clip about every 6-8 inches. If the clip is just pushed forward and won't hold the molding. Simply cut a piece of rubber and slide it in between the clip and the rubber. To remove the molding you should be able to buy the proper tool from an automotive supply shop. Being from Canada I'm not familiar with some of the business names. Is it Pet Boys? They are fairly cheap. The tool goes down between the molding and the rubber and you should be able to feel the clip. You can practice on the old molding. I see someone had given you a picture what the tool looks like. If the clip is broken you can sneak the new clip in place. You can buy a GM clip that you can use or a Ford one will also work. The GM one is on the left (red) or the Ford one on the right (green). You just have to be careful. You won't break the glass because it's protected buy the gasket.
View attachment 1715675973
If you have any questions just ask. I'd be happy to help you
Click to expand...

its actually interesting to see the clip.. it's now obvious how that trim piece holds on.. do we know if they resell the mopar clips? thank you!

ESP47 said:
It's not scary at all. Just buy that tool in post 7. That bottom piece of trim is already trash so just practice on that piece until you get the hang of it. The tool slides in between the seal and the trim. Not the trim and the body. If you break a clip, a new one literally just screws in with a small screw.

I wouldn't mess with a window seal unless you absolutely have to. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. That's especially true with front and rear window seals since it's getting harder and harder to find people that are able to seal them up properly.
Click to expand...

I totally understand the thought of a window seal - and i wouldnt honestly shy away from it either if it meant replacing the rusted clips. but if there isnt a need to remove it.. i wouldnt want to naturally.

Mark Wainwright said:
Simple as hell if you know how to do it.
Click to expand...

isnt it all isnt it all.. I bet its a quick job for someone who knows this stuff
 
crashcaptn said:
its actually interesting to see the clip.. it's now obvious how that trim piece holds on.. do we know if they resell the mopar clips? thank you!
I'll look in my box of goodies and see if I have one to use as an example


I totally understand the thought of a window seal - and i wouldnt honestly shy away from it either if it meant replacing the rusted clips. but if there isnt a need to remove it.. i wouldnt want to naturally.
Usually the only clips that get rusted are the ones across the bottom. If worst comes to worst it's not a big job to re and re the back window. It's tempered glass. I can give you step by step instructions or look for a video on the net. If the rubber isn't pooched then reuse it.


isnt it all isnt it all.. I bet its a quick job for someone who knows this stuff
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The right tools and a bit of knowledge is all it takes.
Whatever you do DO NOT use silicone to seal the window with. You can use a tube of roof caulking and it'll work just fine
 
Mark Wainwright said:
The right tools and a bit of knowledge is all it takes.
Whatever you do DO NOT use silicone to seal the window with. You can use a tube of roof caulking and it'll work just fine
Click to expand...
Agreed. Silicone is not an auto body repair material. Just to be a little clearer on the "roof caulking" maybe it should be a little more specific as to what kind of roof caulking we are talking about here. I used some awesome stuff called "Through The Roof" for temporary repairs when a 75 ft. Ponderosa Pine decided to (with some wind help) occupy some space in my living room. The sealer is clear and smells like good old model airplane glue. Not that there is anything wrong with that. :) Anyway, as good as I think the Through The Roof product would work sealing up a leak on just about anything, I sure would hate to have to get back into it on an auto repair, much like silicone.
I suppose we could assume it is the "asphalt" based roof caulking you were referring to. I have never used it on a car myself but not a bad idea either.
 
Bodyperson said:
Agreed. Silicone is not an auto body repair material. Just to be a little clearer on the "roof caulking" maybe it should be a little more specific as to what kind of roof caulking we are talking about here. I used some awesome stuff called "Through The Roof" for temporary repairs when a 75 ft. Ponderosa Pine decided to (with some wind help) occupy some space in my living room. The sealer is clear and smells like good old model airplane glue. Not that there is anything wrong with that. :) Anyway, as good as I think the Through The Roof product would work sealing up a leak on just about anything, I sure would hate to have to get back into it on an auto repair, much like silicone.
I suppose we could assume it is the "asphalt" based roof caulking you were referring to. I have never used it on a car myself but not a bad idea either.
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Yes roofing tar was what I was referring to. It will skin over but stay soft. When you seal a window and you come to a molding clip slide the tip of the tube between the clip and the gasket. Squeeze the trigger till you see the sealer come out between the clip and body as water can run behind the clip and then into the car. Sort of like when you're repacking a wheel bearing.
 
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