Holley Sniper vs. Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4
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roccodart440
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Just make sure it will cover your HP requirments. IIRC it will only cover up to 550hp.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
You are comparing apples to oranges. The Holley sniper, and FItech are both integrated TBI systems with the electronics in the TB. The Ed compares more say, to a Holley HP, or at least one that uses the HP computer
roccodart440
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I'm aware of that ;) I want to know from people that have tried both systems what their experiences were with each system and which one they prefer.
The Edelbrock system is kind of wimpy with 35 lb injectors and very limited software features. The Edelbrock intake and fuel rails are a nice design and I think the throttle body is okay, but the software is so weak that it is almost useless. The Edelbrock intake and fuel rails would be a good place to start for someone who wanted to do a megasquirt conversion.
The Holley Sniper has great software but the hardware does have some quality issues. I recommend Snipers to most people but I also recommend that they only buy from Summit and that they keep all receipts and packaging materials in case they need to return the Sniper. From what I've seen, about 10% of the Snipers fail right out of the box so you have to be prepared to return the unit if it doesn't work. Summit is really good about providing refunds or replacements.
I'm doing a Sniper XFlow install on a 700 hp big block right now. It takes a lot of work to get the wiring correct. Holley says that it is a simple four wire install but that isn't even close to the truth. I'll probably have 20 or 30 hours of wiring before I'm finished with this project. Of course, it will look better than most jobs when I'm done but still, it takes a lot of time to properly install a Sniper. So don't be suckered into the "four wires" thing.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
What are you doing with the ignition on this one?
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
It is a full Holley Hyperspark ignition system. Hyperspark distributor, coil and ignition box. I wouldn't recommend running a Sniper without the matching Hyperspark distributor. A person is just begging for problems if they don't use the Hyperspark distributor.
Here is a picture of the coil bracket I made to hang the coil on the end of the cylinder head. Using a bracket like this keeps things nice and tidy. The alternator will hang off the bottom of the coil bracket.
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jbc426
Well-Known Member
I watched the video from Holly on the Hyperspark system, and am impressed. Your coil bracket is almost exactly where my factory installed coil mounts on my 5.9 Magnum. Very clean looking.
HyperSpark Ignition - Holley
If I step up to the more tuneable Holley Multiport systems using one of the Holley Terminator, HP or Dominator systems, it looks like I would use their Dual-Sync distributor and possibly even upgrade to a COP ignition, correct?
Their Dual-Sync system says it can supply a crank-trigger signal, but is that something you would use OR would you install an actual crank trigger set-up to eliminate the possible/potential inaccuracies of a distributor derived crank trigger signal. Does the potential minor variation between the two sources even amount to any discernible difference in signal accuracy?
The reason I ask is because my A/C compressor is mounted below my alternator right where a crank trigger set-up would go, so without your fabrication/machining skills I have been kind of stuck at this junction.
A dual sync should be fine for most engines. I've used dual syncs on race engines even though the conventional wisdom is to switch to a crank trigger for racing. I use a crank trigger on my Duster engine with coils but that is kind of overkill for a street engine. It looks cool and it works great but it isn't really needed.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Mopar was going to sell a dual sync distributor for Magnum swaps, but it never hit the market. They even listed it in the catalog in the description of the 380 HP EFI swap kit (I think). I asked one of the engineers about it once and he said it took special equipment to get it all sync'ed so they dropped it.
I wouldn't mind figuring out a dual sync distributor for my Magnum EFI swap, but already built a crank trigger to duplicate the factory signal so probably too late.
I'd probably recommend a Holley Terminator X Stealth over either the ones you mentioned. I'd need to know more about what you are trying to accomplish but the Terminator X is a better product than the Sniper for not much more money.
Terminator X and X Max Stealth 4150 - Holley
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
This is what I was getting at earlier. These systems use the Holley HP computer. Only the sniper has the integrated computer. There are (were) basically two Holley computers---the HP and the Dominator. I think there's a new bigger one now. Regardless of what they "named" the rest of the systems, everything current except Sniper used either an HP or Dominator
goldduster318
Overzealous Car Modifier
The downside to something like a Dual Sync is the timing chain factors into your signal (which isn't any different than a conventional distributor), and it's going to have less resolution than a crank trigger (other than something like the OE magnums which is still only 8 pulses/rev). Will you notice anything? I doubt it. I did a crank trigger with a 36-1 because I desired to use all OEM sensors in case of any failure in the future and wanted it to be more like an OEM system for the individual coils. Then you just use a 5.2/5.9 Mag distributor for the cam sensor. In my case with a Megasquirt and some fab work it was less expensive than a dual sync. This isn't a feature of a sniper or a terminator though.
I just made some square tubing with spacers inside of it that bolts to two bolts on the pan rail and bolted a $9 3.0L Ford ranger sensor to it. Then I had a 36-1 wheel made (there are several places that make standard diameters with custom IDs, I believe mine is 7" OD) for under $100 and simply tack welded it to the crank pulley. Set the air gap as required for the Ford sensor and it was good. But this is for only a more advanced system.
I did the same thing on my 512. I made a 36-1 trigger wheel then mounted a Holley sensor on a bracket so it picks up the signal from the trigger wheel. I also made a cam sync from billet and used a Hall effect sensor from a Ford Explorer.
So you got this thing runnin yet? Can you even drive to the ice cream store?
DionR
Well-Known Member
Andy will have to answer for sure, but pretty sure this the motor in his Duster. So I would guess that the answer to both is yes.
I know it's in, I was just curious where he is with it.
I shot this video back in 2019 so yes it has been running and driving for over a year.
That's right. I vaguely remember seeing that now. But has it gone to the ice cream shop? It's just not legit unless it has. lol Sounds great, btw.
DionR
Well-Known Member
jbc426
Well-Known Member
I appreciate the idea of using the pan rail bolts. It never occurred to me to fab something with steel, which I can weld.
Also, ever since I started soaking my timing chains in Redline synthetic gear oil for a few days before installing them, my timing chains have virtually stopped gaining unwanted free play. It incredible how effective it is in reducing the wear in them to almost no stretch at all.
I discovered this when I ran out of chainsaw bar oil one day a few years back, and my chains started to last five times as long. I still had to sharpen them, but they virtually stopped stretching.
I would like to have greater accuracy on the crank's actual position versus what the distributor is going to indicate. As Andy indicated however, on my 99% used on the street car I may just save myself the additional work of getting things out of the way to access that area of the motor/car. Things are already pretty tight down there, and then there is the trigger ring to deal with. Perhaps, it something to add after I sort and source all the other items for the conversion.
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