[SOLD] 1973 Dodge Dart Sport

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Don R McCully

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Los Angeles CA 90631
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1973 Dodge Dart Sport
360 w/340 heads, 904 w/3.55 posi
This is a rust free California car.
Asking price is $12,700
Located in Los Angeles CA Area

Listing updated 01/23/2021
* Additional pictures posted

"A" body "A" engine
87,500 miles on vehicle, 7,000 miles on modifications below.
Front End
Disc Brake Front end rebuilt w/graphite
Shocks KYB front KG4509
Front Sway Bar 1 1/8 "
Firm Feel Stage II steering box
Motor
Block 360 cid .030 over
ARP Rod bolts 144-6001
Pistons/Pins (forged) 9.2 compression Moly Rings
Melling High Volume Pump
Cam - Crane HMV-272-2-NC 693941
Steel Timing Chain Set Cloyes
Internally Balanced
Windage tray
Cylinder Heads
340 cid 2.02 intakes 1.60 exhaust
Surface .050 block side / .045 intake
Springs ISKY 3105-D
Hardened Keepers 4 groove
Adjustable Pushrods
Electronic High Performance Ignition
Spark Plugs Autolite 63
Light Weight Starter
Edlebrock Performer #2176 Intake
Holley 4-bbl 600cfm Carb 4160 LIST 8-1850
Air cleaner - stock open 340
Exhaust System 2 1/4" w/crossover
Sonic Turbo Mufflers
Transmission
A-904 transmission rebuilt
5.0 Kickdown Lever P4529023
Rear End
Drum brakes 2 1/4" x 10"
Rear end housing 8 3/4 with 3.55 posi
New axles with big bolt pattern, bearings, studs, lugs
Shocks KYB rear KG5511
Rear Sway Bar 1"
Rear leaf spring bushing set 5-2105 & 5-2101G w/graphite
Additional Notes
This was originally a 6-cyl car the V-8 was installed.
This car DOES NOT have A/C.
The paint is original it's 48 years old.
It has your normal parking lot dings on both sides.
The two more serious dings are shown in trunk lock area and RT rear tail light.
This car DOES NOT have Power Brakes.
See photos of the Vinyl Top, Stripe, and Windshield defects.
The original small rear end was replaced with the heavier duty 8 3/4.
Sway bars were added front and rear.
New seat belts were installed, they are NOT ORIGINAL.
The heater core is currently bypassed on this car.


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Last edited:
Not a survivor car.
Needs to be 95% original with a numbers matching engine and original drive train.
All equipment must be present and functional (e.g. A/C & heat)
You have a heavily modified car with original paint.
 
Not a survivor car.
Needs to be 95% original with a numbers matching engine and original drive train.
All equipment must be present and functional (e.g. A/C & heat)
You have a heavily modified car with original paint.
Fair enough, as you can tell I am not an expert in this area. What I meant was that it has survived 48 years without being involved in a significant wreck. Sorry for the confusion.
 
Oh sorry, I missed the zip code in your location area.
“La Habra” Ca. Comes up when it is clicked on.
Thank you. GLWS.
 
Not a survivor car.
Needs to be 95% original with a numbers matching engine and original drive train.
All equipment must be present and functional (e.g. A/C & heat)
You have a heavily modified car with original paint.

Mel Major who host survivor tent displays in Carlisle & Columbus states 85% in all areas.
 
Mel Major who host survivor tent displays in Carlisle & Columbus states 85% in all areas.
Mel is a super nice guy and lowers the standard to attract cars.
I would as well.
When Bloomington Gold did the survivor certifications (when they allowed other cars besides Corvettes) the standard was 95%.
They've even lowered the standard for the same reason. To attract more cars.
Everything had to be functional, and numbers must match.
That was one of the most intense judging's I've ever went through.
 
Not a survivor car.
Needs to be 95% original with a numbers matching engine and original drive train.
All equipment must be present and functional (e.g. A/C & heat)
You have a heavily modified car with original paint.
Wow...learned something new.. I've been feeling good about a. 72 Demon ''survior' I just bought.. All original sheet metal, original paint car.. Only thing not original is the engine.. I guess I'll stop thinking of it as a survivor.... I had no idea there was an actual criteria. Thanks for the info..!
 
Wow...learned something new.. I've been feeling good about a. 72 Demon ''survior' I just bought.. All original sheet metal, original paint car.. Only thing not original is the engine.. I guess I'll stop thinking of it as a survivor.... I had no idea there was an actual criteria. Thanks for the info..!
There are exceptions on some engines.
If the engine was replaced under warranty for instance. But it would have to be the same size. No replacing a /6 with a 440. Depending on the classification, you would have to produce documentation that the engine was replaced under warranty.
It's getting tougher to get these cars to shows. So the bar get lowered and lowered.
 
There are exceptions on some engines.
If the engine was replaced under warranty for instance. But it would have to be the same size. No replacing a /6 with a 440. Depending on the classification, you would have to produce documentation that the engine was replaced under warranty.
It's getting tougher to get these cars to shows. So the bar get lowered and lowered.
Demon I purchased is a 318 car. I was told by the seller that the block in the car doesn't have some stamping, which he thought could mean a factory replacement...although, it is a 73 block and my car is a 72.
 
The standards should be high. Numerous guy's/gals walk through the tent and want to see correct cars they can document and take back home for their restoration. I know because I have helped quite a few over the years. I'd like to see it more stringent. If standards slowly become lax every year you then have people believing what they think of as correct totally incorrect. Then again its all in how you want to enjoy YOUR car.
 
I am reducing the price of this car to $10,500 because I would like to sell it. I cannot figure out how to update the listing with the reduced price.
 
The blue wire is the hot feed to the choke relay located on the opposite fender.
The red wire #8 is coming from the output side of the ammeter in the dash directly to the battery.
You can see the matching black wire #8 entering the hole to the dash next to the red one. This black wire is run directly from the alternator to the input side of the ammeter in the dash. Running this larger size wire and bypassing all the intermediate connections greatly improves the charging system.
 
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