Holley Sniper vs. Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4

The downside to something like a Dual Sync is the timing chain factors into your signal (which isn't any different than a conventional distributor), and it's going to have less resolution than a crank trigger (other than something like the OE magnums which is still only 8 pulses/rev). Will you notice anything? I doubt it. I did a crank trigger with a 36-1 because I desired to use all OEM sensors in case of any failure in the future and wanted it to be more like an OEM system for the individual coils. Then you just use a 5.2/5.9 Mag distributor for the cam sensor. In my case with a Megasquirt and some fab work it was less expensive than a dual sync. This isn't a feature of a sniper or a terminator though.

View attachment 1715675439
I just made some square tubing with spacers inside of it that bolts to two bolts on the pan rail and bolted a $9 3.0L Ford ranger sensor to it. Then I had a 36-1 wheel made (there are several places that make standard diameters with custom IDs, I believe mine is 7" OD) for under $100 and simply tack welded it to the crank pulley. Set the air gap as required for the Ford sensor and it was good. But this is for only a more advanced system.

I appreciate the idea of using the pan rail bolts. It never occurred to me to fab something with steel, which I can weld.

Also, ever since I started soaking my timing chains in Redline synthetic gear oil for a few days before installing them, my timing chains have virtually stopped gaining unwanted free play. It incredible how effective it is in reducing the wear in them to almost no stretch at all.

I discovered this when I ran out of chainsaw bar oil one day a few years back, and my chains started to last five times as long. I still had to sharpen them, but they virtually stopped stretching.

I would like to have greater accuracy on the crank's actual position versus what the distributor is going to indicate. As Andy indicated however, on my 99% used on the street car I may just save myself the additional work of getting things out of the way to access that area of the motor/car. Things are already pretty tight down there, and then there is the trigger ring to deal with. Perhaps, it something to add after I sort and source all the other items for the conversion.