jbc426 said

I appreciate the idea of using the pan rail bolts. It never occurred to me to fab something with steel, which I can weld.

Also, ever since I started soaking my timing chains in Redline synthetic gear oil for a few days before installing them, my timing chains have virtually stopped gaining unwanted free play. It incredible how effective it is in reducing the wear in them to almost no stretch at all.

I discovered this when I ran out of chainsaw bar oil one day a few years back, and my chains started to last five times as long. I still had to sharpen them, but they virtually stopped stretching.

I would like to have greater accuracy on the crank's actual position versus what the distributor is going to indicate. As Andy indicated however, on my 99% used on the street car I may just save myself the additional work of getting things out of the way to access that area of the motor/car. Things are already pretty tight down there, and then there is the trigger ring to deal with. Perhaps, it something to add after I sort and source all the other items for the conversion.

Click to expand...