Not getting 12 volts to coil

That sounds like the battery is dead or one or more of your battery cables/ connections is bad.

You have to learn to test as if you are driving down the road.

Let's say your battery cable goes from battery post----to battery clamp---to cable----to starter relay---to battery.

Maybe it DOESN'T let's SAY it does.

You have a ROAD there. A ROAD MAP.

Measure by stabbing RIGHT INTO the tops of the two battery POSTS. What do you have? If it's much below 12, either the battery is discharged or defective. Charge it up

"Rig" a way to crank the engine either with remote starter button, or screwdriver to jumper the starter relay Another "rig" is to turn on headlights. Either of these will LOAD the battery to PULL IT DOWN and create CURRENT FLOW through the wiring which will show up weak spots

Back up to your road map. First make sure the GROUND CABLE is OK. Put your meter into a low voltage scale. CLIP one lead to the engine block. STAB the remaining probe into the top of the NEG battery post. Now jumper the starter relay. What do you read? Should be VERY low, maybe a few tenths of 1 volt. Anything over .2--.3 is of concern. If so, CLEAN the battery clamps and terminals and try again.

Now Let's start down the ROAD MAP we laid out earlier

Let's say your battery cable goes from battery post----to battery clamp---to cable----to starter relay---to battery.

For now, leave your meter clipped to some point on the engine block. Stab your probe into the top of the POS cable. jumper the starter and read the meter WHILE THE STARTER is cranking. If it is below 10V charge the battery. If the battery won't "come up" take it somewhere and test it. Maybe it's defective/ worn out/ old

Now, with that reading, proceed "down the road." Move the probe to the starter relay. "Let's say" you read 11.3V when stabbed into the top of the battery post, when cranking. "Let's say" you read 8V at the starter relay.

WHAT DOES THAT TELL US?

There is a HUGE voltage drop there. Start by cleaning the battery post and clamp, and re-measure. Backtrack with your probe. If the voltage is OK (near 11.5) at the battery clamp, but low at the starter relay, then the CABLE HAS corroded internally and is bad.

It is simple You simple chase the voltage readings "down the road" that is the wiring PATH

If fact I often call it "the path." "The path" the circuit follows.
Starting at the battery itself I get 10.8v when cranking. I followed this (red wire) all the way to the ignition switch which also reads 10.8v when cranking. Then I went to the brown wire on the ignition switch which read 9v when cranking. Which is the same reading I am getting at the coil + when cranking 9v. Could this mean my ignition switch needs to be replaced? Also I pulled a spark plug out and grounded it. When cranking the spark plug is firing but it looks like a yellow spark. My understanding is that means a weak spark right? It should be Blue? Also just FYI I have a new ecu unit highrev 7,500, new ballast resistor 1.2ohms, new coil accel superstock coil, new starter relay, and the battery is only a couple of months old. Thanks I appreciate all of the knowledge.