JB weld pits in floor pan?

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75slant6

75slant6

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Hey everyone, my passenger front floor pan has one section that I need to cut out and replace, but it’s also has some heavy pitting here and there with some small pin holes. Everything around the pin holes is really solid and I’d like to not have to cut out the whole pan and replace it if I don’t need to. So, should I try to fill the pin holes with my flux core welder or should I just put a skim of jb weld over all the pits?
Here’s the floor after I wire wheeled it, obviously that top right corner needs patched.
09F4916A-44E9-4682-A5DA-9B239A59559A.jpeg


And here’s with a light under the pan to show the pin holes. As I said, the pan itself is surprisingly solid.
7496C3BD-056D-471D-BF19-008CBAB19BEC.jpeg
 
I'd lay the new pan over the old one. Trace it out with a sharpie, then cut inside the sharpie marks for the overlap. Change the whole damn thing, pits and all if you have a new pan. Unless you can remove the corrosion out of them completely, a skim coat of JB weld wont hold up for long.
 
You will find once you try welding to it that it is pretty thin.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I'd lay the new pan over the old one. Trace it out with a sharpie, then cut inside the sharpie marks for the overlap. Change the whole damn thing, pits and all if you have a new pan. Unless you can remove the corrosion out of them completely, a skim coat of JB weld wont hold up for long.
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Doing the skim coat over pitted floor pan steel on something you intend to keep if you have a new replacement pan section to replace it is "cheese dicking" it. It will take about the same amount of time to cut it all out and weld in a new pan section as it will playing Johnny fuckaround with a pitted floor, a wire welder, and JB weld.
 
Agree with above.
But I've used fiberglass resin over media
Blasted pitted areas, inside and out of floor areas
Keyword: media blasted
 
moparmat2000 said:
I'd lay the new pan over the old one. Trace it out with a sharpie, then cut inside the sharpie marks for the overlap. Change the whole damn thing, pits and all if you have a new pan. Unless you can remove the corrosion out of them completely, a skim coat of JB weld wont hold up for long.
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Well that’s just it, if I had a new pan, I’d just swap the whole thing. I have a good rear pan in a parts car that I’ll be using in the passenger rear, but unfortunately, the passenger front in that car is toast.

I guess if I’m gonna make a patch for that corner, it wouldn’t be just too much more work to shape a new pan. Or for $65 I can get a Sherman pan.
 
Check out P.O.R. 15 products.
Their product line has something to address this specific problem of pitting and pin holes.
 
Jegs has that nice stamped Sherman front pan for $91. I'd cut all that pitted mess out and change it, but that's just me. Then epoxy prime it nice and thick with something like kirker duraprime. This also gives you a chance to look inside the frame, clean it out, and maybe beef up where the torsion bar lug is on that side if need be.
 
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Yes, I would highly recommend a new pan. Yes, you have to spend money but you’ll save a lot of time and headache down the road.
 
Just replace the whole pan. Trust me on this. I tried to short cut just the problem areas in my trunk and I wound up paying more to do more work, only to wind up with a crappier job overall.

The process of welding in a larger piece of floor over a smaller patch is the exact same. Only difference is you have to weld and grind a little more but that's the easy part when you're already on the home stretch. The fitting and prep before hand basically takes the same amount of time either way so you might as well just do it all the first time.
 
Well, ordered the $91 stamped Sherman panel from jegs. I thought about just por15ing it as I know I’ll be back in there later but I just decided that if I’m patching all the other holes in the floor now and painting the floor pan, I may as well do it right so I know I never have to mess with it again.
 
Apparently a bit late to this party, but I had some small perforations just like the OP pictures show, as well as a pretty bad drain hole. A previous owner had even used a little Bondo under the gas pedal.

I cleaned things up with a wire wheel and went over the areas with a little rust killer, then patched them up with JB Weld. The JB Weld stuck to the Rust Killer just fine, and the paint stuck to the JB Weld just fine.

9 years later, everything is still SOLID AS A ROCK, above and below..

July 8 2012 011.jpg

Drain hole 1.jpg
Drain hole 2.jpg
Drain hole 3.jpg
 
65 bucks versus doin it crappy. I know what I would do even as broke as I stay. 65 bucks is just not much to get it done right. JMO.
 
RustyRatRod said:
65 bucks versus doin it crappy. I know what I would do even as broke as I stay. 65 bucks is just not much to get it done right. JMO.
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I ended up buying the nicer, stamped, one piece Sherman pan from jegs for $91 vs the eBay one with those janky split corners for $65
 
75slant6 said:
Yeah I haven’t read a single good thing about those split pans. If I would’ve bought that one, I would’ve cut it up into patches and that would’ve sucked too.
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I got the split pans for mine in the rear as that's all that was available. I didn't like all the extra welding, but I did it and it turned out good.
 
And as a bonus you get some new experience welding. Notice how much better your welding is at the end of the job as opposed too the beginning!
 
Well, in my humble opinion, there are two ways to do rust repair! The right way, and the wrong way. I can't remember how many cars I have torn into where a previous owner had tried to jury rig floor patches with Bondo, Kitty Hair, fiberglass, etc. I have never seen it work well for the long run. Don't forget your car is a unibody, and a weakened floor is NOT a good thing.
 
dICKj said:
And as a bonus you get some new experience welding. Notice how much better your welding is at the end of the job as opposed too the beginning!
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Practice in welding is definitely something I can use more of! I should get plenty in the next few weeks, between the floor pans and subframe connectors.
 
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