My 422 smallblock build

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Turning the adjustment threads the rod ends out.

512Stroker said:
j par I have had the same thought of using a turnbuckle for the alternator but I was never able to get it right in my head. Please provide a couple pics of your setup. Thanks in advance
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This is the small block setup from CFV
 
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Why thank you! I would be the last to call your setup ugly, because anything home crafted that works to serve functionality on a purpose built racecar has a beauty all of it's own. I thought I would share since I was already trial fitting it together before installing it today. I have to scrounge up a single pulley alternator and I'm set.
 
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12many said:
Any updates? Your thread has been a good read:thumbsup:
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The short block is complete and bagged for now. I started assembling the W2 heads and ran into a snag with the valve job and rocker geometry. I’m planning to take the heads to Mike at B3 Racing Engines this week sometime to get sorted out. After that I’ll be able to update the thread a little better.
On a side note, I’m looking for a set of W2 headers for A-body 4-spd if anyone has a set squirreled away.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
I just got a setup from CFV for a belt drive alternator. I’ll mock it up here how it works and send pics. The kit is well worth it but you have to get the CFV pulleys for spacing. I went with a V-belt because I enclosed the water pump impeller (it’s really more of a fan from the factory, whips more coolant than it moves) on a 6 vane pump from the rear and the front, and the 18-3/4 under-drive will help keep it out of cavitation. The more efficient you can make it, the less rpm it needs to do work.
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I considered using the impeller from a FlowKooler waterpump, but ended up sticking with a stamped 8 blade and driving it as close to 1:1 as i could get.

I have enough spare parts to build a second one, but I'm interested in what you did to enclose the rear of the impeller. I was concerned a riveted plate wouldn't last.
 
512Stroker said:
j par I have had the same thought of using a turnbuckle for the alternator but I was never able to get it right in my head. Please provide a couple pics of your setup. Thanks in advance
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Not sure if you're interested in non-stock locations, but this is where I ended up and what I used. Heim joints and turnbuckle from McMaster, triangulation bracket I drew up, 3d printed a test piece and them milled at work out of a piece of aluminum plate.

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I used this washer which I ordered from Fastenal after measuring the rear flat tips of the impeller. I then cut it in half and flux core welded one half on and then the other onto the flats on the backside of the impeller. I then took a grinding point and cleaned all the welds up. My minimum clearance inside is around .040 or so where the inside of the pump has an irregular surface pattern. Water is pulled in through the center of the washer around the driveshaft and then thrown outward by the vanes (just like in an actual large scale pump, but just cruder). TIG welding it on after pulling the impeller out of the pump would really be the preferred way of doing it. But I’ve tested it on the engine with a belt looped over the Chuck of a drill and spare pulley bolted onto it. It really moves some coolant without a thermostat in the system and the bypass blocked. I’ll add a thermostat if I find out I need one but I’m more concerned with seeing if I can just get it to run cool with 10:1 on iron heads and a 22 inch two core copper and brass radiator, a clutch fan, and a good shroud.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
View attachment 1715681271 View attachment 1715681273
I used this washer which I ordered from Fastenal after measuring the rear flat tips of the impeller. I then cut it in half and flux core welded one half on and then the other onto the flats on the backside of the impeller. I then took a grinding point and cleaned all the welds up. My minimum clearance inside is around .040 or so where the inside of the pump has an irregular surface pattern. Water is pulled in through the center of the washer around the driveshaft and then thrown outward by the vanes (just like in an actual large scale pump, but just cruder). TIG welding it on after pulling the impeller out of the pump would really be the preferred way of doing it. But I’ve tested it on the engine with a belt looped over the Chuck of a drill and spare pulley bolted onto it. It really moves some coolant without a thermostat in the system and the bypass blocked. I’ll add a thermostat if I find out I need one but I’m more concerned with seeing if I can just get it to run cool with 10:1 on iron heads and a 22 inch two core copper and brass radiator, a clutch fan, and a good shroud.
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re the thermostat. you'll often find an engine will run hotter without one, the reason being with no restriction (an open 'stat has a smaller hole than no 'stat) the water is allowed to flow faster. this might seem a good thing but the water 'needs' to be in the radiator long enough to transfer heat which if it flows too fast it can't get done. if you're still struggling with heat try a 'stat with the middle/guts cut out which will be a restriction to slow the flow.
neil.
 
I used the lightweight mini alternator and actually used the factory brackets. I shortened the bottom adjuster brace, made necessary spacers, and shortened bolts as needed.

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rumblefish360 said:
@autoxcuda How did that fit on the cylinder head side?
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That top bolt just bolted right to head. Key was this alternator doesn’t have a big back end

EDIT I had to drill out the two pivot holes on top. Not much it was made for metric bolts.

AND the adjuster bolt can be left metric or drilled out and tapped for standard thread bolt. I tapped mine for standard.

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rumblefish360 said:
What is the year a message model that Alt. belongs to?
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I got it put of the junkyard 20 years ago.

I got the 102mm mini Nippondenso single V-groove pulley from like a Chevy Sprint 1985-88 in the junkyard. But the part number 31400-83010 corresponds to a Suzuki Samurai 1.3L 1986-1989, Chevy Sprint 85-88, Suzuki Swift 84-89 and possibly others. It seems to come in 45, 55, 60 amp versions from rebuilders. Mine tested fine at the parts store. It is the same physically as powermaster p/n 8122/8128 6.78 lbs. 102 mm. ( http://www.powermastermotorsports.co...ternators.html ) The stock ones are not one wire like the powermaster ones. But they have an internal regulator.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
View attachment 1715681271 View attachment 1715681273
I used this washer which I ordered from Fastenal after measuring the rear flat tips of the impeller. I then cut it in half and flux core welded one half on and then the other onto the flats on the backside of the impeller. I then took a grinding point and cleaned all the welds up. My minimum clearance inside is around .040 or so where the inside of the pump has an irregular surface pattern. Water is pulled in through the center of the washer around the driveshaft and then thrown outward by the vanes (just like in an actual large scale pump, but just cruder). TIG welding it on after pulling the impeller out of the pump would really be the preferred way of doing it. But I’ve tested it on the engine with a belt looped over the Chuck of a drill and spare pulley bolted onto it. It really moves some coolant without a thermostat in the system and the bypass blocked. I’ll add a thermostat if I find out I need one but I’m more concerned with seeing if I can just get it to run cool with 10:1 on iron heads and a 22 inch two core copper and brass radiator, a clutch fan, and a good shroud.
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Thank you! Just in case, I already have a gutted thermostat set up as restrictor, if need be. Guitar Jones has an interesting read on cooling systems as it applies to dirt track racing and a small block Mopar. With the extremes encountered there, he has to restrict coolant through the forward cooling passages in the deck, block the bypass, and run without any type of restriction.
 
mygasser said:
re the thermostat. you'll often find an engine will run hotter without one, the reason being with no restriction (an open 'stat has a smaller hole than no 'stat) the water is allowed to flow faster. this might seem a good thing but the water 'needs' to be in the radiator long enough to transfer heat which if it flows too fast it can't get done. if you're still struggling with heat try a 'stat with the middle/guts cut out which will be a restriction to slow the flow.
neil.
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There is no such thing as coolant moving too fast through the radiator. You run a thermostat to set minimum operating temperature.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Thank you! Just in case, I already have a gutted thermostat set up as restrictor, if need be. Guitar Jones has an interesting read on cooling systems as it applies to dirt track racing and a small block Mopar. With the extremes encountered there, he has to restrict coolant through the forward cooling passages in the deck, block the bypass, and run without any type of restriction.
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No problem.

wish I could have moved it lower to
get the Center of Gravity lower... but the fuel pump is on the way.

Next plans are an aluminum power steering pump. And low mount external reservoir
 
mygasser said:
there are readily available water outlet restrictor kits with 'washers' that have different sized holes to let the coolant transfer more or less heat by slowing the flow more or less. here's some examples Water Outlet Restrictors - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
neil.
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Right. Do some research. Slowing the coolant down is WRONG. Always was wrong, and always will be wrong.

All those washers do is dirty up the oil and if the cooling system is correct, they get to temp way too slow, if at all.

Again, the thermostat sets the MINIMUM operating temp. And it’s a necessary evil because it’s a restriction.
 
Absolutely! The main reason (because I really know it’s necessary) I’m trying it without one first is I’m confident I have problems elsewhere. If the temperature remains difficult to control, I’ve probably got a head gasket going south. And I’ve already got a plan, so that’s the entrance of a whole new rabbit hole to fall into...
 
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12many said:
autoxcuda, is that a plastic fuel filter?View attachment 1715681675
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Yep. Been running them in cars for 30 years.

It’s held away from the manifold secure in place by 3/8” hard lines on either side.

Does NOT have 100% floppy rubber fuel haphazardly routed from the carb to fuel pump. That 19 yo kids used when they swapped to Holley carbs and/or aluminum intakes back in the day.
 
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Run an 8 vane water pump, move that coolant! Keeping the coolant in the block longer to draw the heat out is hogwash. Less restriction faster flow.
 
autoxcuda said:
Yep. Been running them in cars for 30 years.

It’s held away from the manifold secure in place by 3/8” hard lines on either side.

Does NOT have 100% floppy rubber fuel haphazardly routed from the carb to fuel pump. That 19 yo kids used when they swapped to to swap Holley carbs and/or aluminum intakes back in the day.
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Hey I hear you. I never had an issue with one of those blowing up, cracking or going up in a fireball like you read all over the internet. :lol:
 
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