New Slant 6 put in the 64

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chinze57

Push Button tranny and a Slant 6 that'll never die
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Location
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Well, my new Slant 6 is in as of today.
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This is the photo my mechanic sent me after it went in.

This has been a long 2.5 months. My rear main seal was shot, leaking a quart of oil every week and a half or so. Talked to a mechanic who did the initial work when I bought it to get it up to snuff, and he said “look at getting that engine rebuilt or you’re just going to keep throwing good money after bad”. So I did, talked to one of my coworkers who’s a car guy and lo and behold his dad has a shop and they only work on classics. What luck.

Went to the shop and talked to him, he’d never worked on a /6 before and was excited to do it, so a couple days later I dropped it off. After he pulled the engine, we discovered it was not a 225 as we had thought, but a 170. Ok, that’s too bad, but c’est la vie. He took some measurements and it had been bored .060” over already. The pistons had been knurled. Not great. We talk options, and he found a 225 in a 69 dart a couple hours away, seller only wanted $170 for it.

He went and got it and stripped it down to take it to the machine shop and found it was in fact a 225, but was not originally from the 69 dart it had come from, but from a 77, we think probably an aspen.

So he takes it to the machine shop, they measure it, and it’s practically perfect. No work had been done to it, everything was still well in line, we could have just cleaned it and put it back together and called it a day.

But where’s the fun in that? So we decided to bore it .030” over, put in a new cam, and switched to mechanical rockers. We did run into the issue that the gasket set didn’t arrive until mid January. It was back ordered for a while. Did have an issue with the flex plate as another person in this forum did a couple weeks back too, so had to get that sorted.

Now that it’s in, planning on putting a 4bbl Holley on top and running headers with 2 or 2.25” exhaust with a cherry bomb.

While it was there he rewired the car using a Ron Francis kit, really excited that that’s done. The wiring was incredibly sketchy before, lots of splicing, fuse block was melted and had been mostly bypassed, some gauges non-functional, just a lot of bad.
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But that’s fixed now.

Figured I’d post this to show y’all the new engine, I’ll post some more pics of the engine in various stages as well as the old engine bay below.
 
1. A 77 slant six should have had a solid lifter cam with adjustable rockers from the factory. 81 was the first year for full production of the hydraulic cam (a few built 78-80 for testing).

2. A 64 torque converter's snout is too small to snugly fit into the back of a 77 crank. I.e., the early trans will bolt to the later motor, but the crank won't hold the early torque converter centered. You need an adapter ring to fit over the torque converter snout to precisely locate the converter in the crank. The torque converter bolts alone won't do it.
 
2. A 64 torque converter's snout is too small to snugly fit into the back of a 77 crank. I.e., the early trans will bolt to the later motor, but the crank won't hold the early torque converter centered. You need an adapter ring to fit over the torque converter snout to precisely locate the converter in the crank. The torque converter bolts alone won't do it.
Ask your mechanic if he used the crank adapter. That is in addition to swapping the flexplate. Very important. If he didn't install the adapter, I have them available. send me a message.
 
Ask your mechanic if he used the crank adapter. That is in addition to swapping the flexplate. Very important. If he didn't install the adapter, I have them available. send me a message.
1. A 77 slant six should have had a solid lifter cam with adjustable rockers from the factory. 81 was the first year for full production of the hydraulic cam (a few built 78-80 for testing).

2. A 64 torque converter's snout is too small to snugly fit into the back of a 77 crank. I.e., the early trans will bolt to the later motor, but the crank won't hold the early torque converter centered. You need an adapter ring to fit over the torque converter snout to precisely locate the converter in the crank. The torque converter bolts alone won't do it.

We talked about the issue with the torque converter, he machines one, and then a couple days later I saw someone with the same issue and learned that you made them. So there is an adaptor in there.

These were definitely hydraulic lifters, and weren’t adjustable. They’re solid lifters now
 
We talked about the issue with the torque converter, he machines one, and then a couple days later I saw someone with the same issue and learned that you made them. So there is an adaptor in there.

These were definitely hydraulic lifters, and weren’t adjustable. They’re solid lifters now

Sounds like you're good to go.
 
We talked about the issue with the torque converter, he machines one, and then a couple days later I saw someone with the same issue and learned that you made them. So there is an adaptor in there.

These were definitely hydraulic lifters, and weren’t adjustable. They’re solid lifters now
Sounds like your mechanic/shop knows what they are doing. How about posting the contact info for them.
 
Sounds like your mechanic/shop knows what they are doing. How about posting the contact info for them.

Excellent idea:
Ken Woodman
238 Motorsports
+1 (770) 335-7672
238motorsports@gmail.com
3701 Longview Dr, Chamblee, GA 30341

Ken only works on classics, and he does everything. Transmissions, engines, electrical, the works, he’s even doing floor pan repair on my dart. I highly recommend him to anyone in GA.
 
Below are some more pictures that show the routed wires and the new intake.
It’s a mild cam (don’t know the details off the top of my head), .030” over, 4 bbl Holley, aluminum offenhauser intake, and Clifford headers that will be run to 2 1/4” exhaust with a less restrictive muffler.

I know headers are a debate when it comes to the slant six. I now have two exhaust manifolds, so if headers end up making it suck on the bottom end, I can go back to them. But I do want to see if I like them. It’s not a high performance build by any means, just trying to get more out of it than stock. It’s my daily driver, but I do plan on doing a little racing or auto crossing now and then for fun. This build isn’t going to win me anything, but it should be a lot more fun than it was.
7E492451-B607-4D42-A29C-976C41BE0716.jpeg
D667BF5C-1E13-47C1-B714-E790C9B77F85.jpeg
 
Below are some more pictures that show the routed wires and the new intake.
It’s a mild cam (don’t know the details off the top of my head), .030” over, 4 bbl Holley, aluminum offenhauser intake, and Clifford headers that will be run to 2 1/4” exhaust with a less restrictive muffler.

I know headers are a debate when it comes to the slant six. I now have two exhaust manifolds, so if headers end up making it suck on the bottom end, I can go back to them. But I do want to see if I like them. It’s not a high performance build by any means, just trying to get more out of it than stock. It’s my daily driver, but I do plan on doing a little racing or auto crossing now and then for fun. This build isn’t going to win me anything, but it should be a lot more fun than it was.
View attachment 1715686581 View attachment 1715686582
Unless they are larger than any l've seen, headers always increase torque, on almost anything unless the tubes are way too large.,which has happened...even to guys running big blocks. Looks good! If l were closer, l'd take that 170 off of Your hands! There are members here & on .org that are near You, hit the ad sections with it!
 
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