Dartin for Divorce

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On the door striker. I welded a slightly thicker than stock piece of sheet metal to the backside = inside the cavity. I made it about 1" larger than the part that retains the striker nut. For sure the weakness is the jamb sheet metal.
 
Well. Got the hard part done.

Gotta figure out how the door catch piece goes in and stays secure... then to adjust the window.

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Spotwelds broke on the nutplate cage. Both my 67 and my sons 69 have cracks around the latch pin. I have a set of dynamic restoration plates for his car, but have access to stainless steel. I may weld the cracks, grind smooth, and do this for both cars. It kinda gives the jamb area a hand built European sports car look in this area I think

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Not sure how thick the plate in the picture above is? Not sure if you'd have to widen the door gap so it doesn't contact the plate?
 
Not sure how thick the plate in the picture above is? Not sure if you'd have to widen the door gap so it doesn't contact the plate?

Yea I'm not to sure either. Right now I just have larger washers on the front and back of the striker where the metal broke and the doors are opening and closing fine. Tony says we can use his welder to repair it the correct way though. So maybe one of these times when I take the car over his way.
 
My car looks so naked.... I'll have a new to me brawler 770 cfm in a couple or days though. Tony says he will help me tune it properly.

I went over there today and he taught me all about Holley carbs and the adjustability of them. Explained the difference between double pumper with mechanical secondaries and vacuum secondaries. He did this by show and tell with his extra carbs on the shelf... I like the look of the one with pink metering blocks and a pink base plate, it would look good on the purple car and the girls would love it. Future plans.

I'm excited.

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I liking your different color plug wires.

I burnt one and another one was to short so I had to use 2 old ones... I hate the mismatched wires and I also dislike not having them run clean along the valve covers... soon I'll have to figure something out, or maybe I will get some pointers from Tony or FABO...
 
The metering blocks were Red...and the base plate was purple.....nothing was Pink
 
Yea I'm not to sure either. Right now I just have larger washers on the front and back of the striker where the metal broke and the doors are opening and closing fine. Tony says we can use his welder to repair it the correct way though. So maybe one of these times when I take the car over his way.
Check for any play in the door hinges, that is what breaks the striker.
 
Not sure how thick the plate in the picture above is? Not sure if you'd have to widen the door gap so it doesn't contact the plate?
I doubt it. Those gaps are pretty wide already. Plus the guy who did that removed some washers from under the pin. Probably made the plates the same thickness as the washers removed, and the screws appear to be countersunk. Stainless steel like 301 1/4 hard is one tough customer compared to 1025 carbon steel sheet that's for sure. Those stainless steel plates would really only have to be .040" -.050" thick to do the job. Rebuilt or new door hinges if they are slopped out is the way to go. The uppers for sure can be rebuilt. Most of the problem is in the lowers.
 
Replaced the upper and lower driver's hinge pins and welded in thicker sheet metal behind striker pin nut capture plate "before" I rehung "Frankin-quarter" (long story). So welding and fiddling to get everything just right was much easier. New pins as originals were shot, probably ½ material left, wanted door to be gapped correctly at rocker and jamb to help align Frankie, and since the jamb was cracked at latch pin it was prime time.
On "Franken-quarter"; I knew there was prior repair at driver's rear wheel arch and as I was removing paint I revealed what I figured to be a late 70's fix... Apparantly the car took a hit just forward and on the wheel arch. Whoever did the repair, with technology available to them at the time, took a spanking new from Chrysler quarter and pieced the damaged section in, they also installed a new from Chrysler door skin, both brazed in/on. Now they attempted to "butt braze" the quarter section in and did a not too bad job everywhere except where they cut old quarter front and sized the new piece to meet right, vertically up, from wheel house to about 2" above the body line. They overlapped, by like 4", the horizontal at the c pillar but didn't overlap anything at the vertical from the wheel arch. Yep, the heat from attempting to butt braze warped both old and new panels. They ended up pop riveting a 3" wide piece of metal behind so the butt could be loaded with brazing rod. Then mudded it up. So, after flattening what I could (front section off) of both pieces and trimming of what was beyond working with, I had to piece in a 2' wide vertical making body lines and wheel arch bends. Then lapping all the pieces (thank god for pnumatic combo hole punch/flange tool) and cleco-ing and screwing them where they needed to be for plug welding, not real good with mig to even attempt butt welds yet. On top of that (3 pieces now) I had to bang the hell out of the inner and outer wheel houses to get them right and then a small metal repair on the once new old front quarter (4 now) and then I was able to fit up the trunk vertical (not part of Frankie) and fit in the lower quarter rust repair panel. So for those who are counting, or not, that's 6 pieces welded in and pretty darn square, body lines and wheel arch all metal and welded. I'll need maybe less than an ⅛ of filler, not saying it won't be wide and tall, to get it ready for primer. Hence "Frankin-quarter". Of course I still have rust repair on the lower rear of passenger quarter and trunk vertical to do yet, then the "tub fun" can begin...
In hindsight it would have been easier to install new quarter and so forth, but I had more time than funds at the time. Besides that wouldn't have been as much fun...
 
Replaced the upper and lower driver's hinge pins and welded in thicker sheet metal behind striker pin nut capture plate "before" I rehung "Frankin-quarter" (long story). So welding and fiddling to get everything just right was much easier. New pins as originals were shot, probably ½ material left, wanted door to be gapped correctly at rocker and jamb to help align Frankie, and since the jamb was cracked at latch pin it was prime time.
On "Franken-quarter"; I knew there was prior repair at driver's rear wheel arch and as I was removing paint I revealed what I figured to be a late 70's fix... Apparantly the car took a hit just forward and on the wheel arch. Whoever did the repair, with technology available to them at the time, took a spanking new from Chrysler quarter and pieced the damaged section in, they also installed a new from Chrysler door skin, both brazed in/on. Now they attempted to "butt braze" the quarter section in and did a not too bad job everywhere except where they cut old quarter front and sized the new piece to meet right, vertically up, from wheel house to about 2" above the body line. They overlapped, by like 4", the horizontal at the c pillar but didn't overlap anything at the vertical from the wheel arch. Yep, the heat from attempting to butt braze warped both old and new panels. They ended up pop riveting a 3" wide piece of metal behind so the butt could be loaded with brazing rod. Then mudded it up. So, after flattening what I could (front section off) of both pieces and trimming of what was beyond working with, I had to piece in a 2' wide vertical making body lines and wheel arch bends. Then lapping all the pieces (thank god for pnumatic combo hole punch/flange tool) and cleco-ing and screwing them where they needed to be for plug welding, not real good with mig to even attempt butt welds yet. On top of that (3 pieces now) I had to bang the hell out of the inner and outer wheel houses to get them right and then a small metal repair on the once new old front quarter (4 now) and then I was able to fit up the trunk vertical (not part of Frankie) and fit in the lower quarter rust repair panel. So for those who are counting, or not, that's 6 pieces welded in and pretty darn square, body lines and wheel arch all metal and welded. I'll need maybe less than an ⅛ of filler, not saying it won't be wide and tall, to get it ready for primer. Hence "Frankin-quarter". Of course I still have rust repair on the lower rear of passenger quarter and trunk vertical to do yet, then the "tub fun" can begin...
In hindsight it would have been easier to install new quarter and so forth, but I had more time than funds at the time. Besides that wouldn't have been as much fun...
Just when you thought I had seen it all, I bought a 70 cuda sitting since 1976, the original owner pop riveted the inner fenders in.
They had to be OEM parts back then, easy to take out now, but the fender tag was missing.
340 4-speed car, factory orange.
 
Franken quarter lol. That's funny. I will be hanging new quarter skins on my sons car. Will likely go that route with some 14 gage steel lapped in behind the door jamb, then tack weld the nutplate cage in after we redo the hinges. Get all that squared up before putting the skins on. I liked those stainless steel plates though.
 
Carb came in early. So I'm going to clean it all up, go to factory specs (when I find them) then install it and see if it will start...

I am clueless on holleys... the guy I got it from said he could never tune it properly or get it to run right on his 318.

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Fuel line and carb feed lines don't work together as they are now. Not enough space to hook up the fuel filter. Going to have to cut the metal line to add the filter.

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Almost looks like a real engine now....lol

Almost! Its all hooked up now. I had to get a new fuel filter because I bent the other one... I also needed a longer pcv hose.

My air filter still fits with the hood shut. I realize the air filter hold down on the holley is different so I'm going to have to find a bolt for that...

The ac compressor looks like dog **** on the engine...

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Doc, I know you are excited about your new carb, but get the metal air cleaner off the hot post of your battery.
 
I tried starting the car. Fuel was squurting out of this little post. Reset my floats to right here... set all the idle screws to 1.5 turns out, that may be a little rich I dont know. I'll read my plugs after it starts running.... wait I dont know how to read the plugs :rofl:

have to help with the kiddos right now, so didnt get to hear the car fully start yet... dang.

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