Trasmission Cooling Line Removal Help

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Mgarrett88

Mgarrett88

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Hi all
My radiator has a small leak. By small I mean barely leaks, but it bothers me enough and thought I would look to take to to a reputable shop to take a look at it.
Fluid needed to be flushed anyway. So I drained the radiator, disconnected the hoses and set out to do the trans lines. However I am stumbling with them. Cant really get them to "loosen" up. Appear to be copper line with brass fittings, so I dont want to put too much elbow grease to them and break something, creating even a bigger problem.
Do not know the last time these would ever have been removed. 1972 scamp that is mostly all original. I hit them with WD40 to let them soak.
Advice? Thought this would be easier than it is but maybe I am missing something? I am thinking this is a flare nut but theres not enough room to slip a flare wrench on there and I dont want to "round" off what is currently in place.

Also next year the 318 is coming out and getting replaced with a 360 and more than likely a new radiator anyway. Should I even worry about getting this one fixed? As mentioned the leak is TINY. Part of me says just change the fluid and enjoy it this summer and get a new rad in next winter.

Thoughts?

trans line 2.jpg


Trans Line.jpg
 
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Mgarrett88 said:
Hi all
My radiator has a small leak. By small I mean barely leaks, but it bothers me enough and thought I would look to take to to a reputable shop to take a look at it.
Fluid needed to be flushed anyway. So I drained the radiator, disconnected the hoses and set out to do the trans lines. However I am stumbling with them. Cant really get them to "loosen" up. Appear to be copper line with brass fittings, so I dont want to put too much elbow grease to them and break something, creating even a bigger problem.
Do not know the last time these would ever have been removed. 1972 scamp that is mostly all original. I hit them with WD40 to let them soak.
Advice? Thought this would be easier than it is but maybe I am missing something? I am thinking this is a flare nut but theres not enough room to slip a flare wrench on there and I dont want to "round" off what is currently in place.

Also next year the 318 is coming out and getting replaced with a 360 and more than likely a new radiator anyway. Should I even worry about getting this one fixed? As mentioned the leak is TINY. Part of me says just change the fluid and enjoy it this summer and get a new rad in next winter.

Thoughts?

View attachment 1715684492

View attachment 1715684493
Click to expand...
Try PB Blaster instead of WD40. I'd use a small vice grips and a flare wrench. It should come apart.
 
Yep like Rondha said, Def a flare wrench needed on the line after it's soaked in PB Blaster. The wrench fits over the line then slide it onto fitting, it doesn't slip off the fitting when loosening.
Use a regular wrench to hold the fitting at the radiator base.
Dont want to tear that.
Link for the flare wrench (also called a line wrench) at Napa:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_...AwLA3kCbiH5vfd-9L4LpgolcBZo1rQBoC8NEQAvD_BwE&
Screenshot_20210206-001158_Chrome.jpg
 
Just looked close at your pic, looks like you may be attempting to turn the wrong nut. ?
Turn the female at the Green arrow, hold at the Red arrow, that male nipple stays on the radiator.
Screenshot_20210206-002303_Samsung capture.jpg
 
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I can't stress enough 2 points.

  1. Do not use vice grips unless it's the last resort. They WILL crush the fitting nut.
  2. Use good quality flare wrench whenever wrenching on fitting nuts
 
They can certainly be tight!!

One wrench in one hand holding the red arrow nut as @Joey4speed indicates. And the other hand holding the wrench loosening the green arrow nut.

They usually break loose all at once!!!
 
Try using a mix of 50% acetone, and 50%ATF soaked on the fitting overnight. Then go at it with high quality flare wrenches.
 
I find that holding the flare nut wrench and the backup wrench a few degrees apart in one hand and squeezing the two towards each other breaks them loose with no busted knuckles
 
If none of that works give it some heat with a propane torch, but don't get it too hot to deform the brass fitting. If all else falls pre bent lines are not expensive (and yours look pretty crusty) l have an extra set if you're interested. Cut the tube an then remove it by loosening the brass fitting from the radiator.
 
Also sometimes the tubing is welded to the flare nut and starts to turn and kinks the tubing, so be aware of that as you turn the nut. The PB blaster will help if you let it soak for a while. WD-40 does nothing for frozen nuts, especially in the winter.
 
Slow pull on a wrench can twist and kink the metal line. Hold the fitting in the radiator and bump the wrench on the line fitting to break it loose. Back before I owned actual line wrenches, I would use on end on hold fitting and small vise grips on line fitting. After a good whack on the vise grips the common open end wrench goter done.
 
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