1969 Barracuda 340 Formula S Restoration

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I’ve been very impressed with the quality of their restorations and will use them again. Just need to make sure we both understand what might be replaced.
 
Finally got the AC/Heater box installed. It is a heavy awkward thing to wrestle into position!!! Also installed the wiper linkage.
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Restored the brake pedal and emergency brake assemblies. Another mystery how the assembly line workers got these installed quickly!! All the pins and bolts are very awkward to get installed, or is just my advancing age???
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Added some more acoustic mats. Used some leftover Eastwood mats but will need more Dynamat to finish. Glued 1/4” aircraft foam to roof panels. The slowest assembly line in the world continues!
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After firewall insulation goes in, the parking brake is probably next. Followed by the heater box, and LH vent box, then the brake pedal, and gas pedal, dash goes in last.
 
After firewall insulation goes in, the parking brake is probably next. Followed by the heater box, and LH vent box, then the brake pedal, and gas pedal, dash goes in last.
Yup - dash assembly will soon start. Currently working on getting the engine and tranny mated.
 
Finally finished adding all the soundproofing mats!! Added some on the inside of the quarterpanels as well.
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Was installing the tranny and a mini starter today. I bought a terminal extender kit to move the connection points for easier installation. BUT, this extension kit does nothing to help the connections!!! It may work OK on a big block tranny, but I wasted my money on buying it for a small block!!! The starter cable will connect just fine to the original terminals.
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I think I have everything added to the tranny before installing the engine/tranny in the car
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Was installing the tranny and a mini starter today. I bought a terminal extender kit to move the connection points for easier installation. BUT, this extension kit does nothing to help the connections!!! It may work OK on a big block tranny, but I wasted my money on buying it for a small block!!!
if you ever need to disconnect the wires from the starter with everything in the car you might wish you left that on :)
car is looking fantastic :thumbsup:
 
if you ever need to disconnect the wires from the starter with everything in the car you might wish you left that on :)
car is looking fantastic :thumbsup:
Thx for the feedback
I figured if I did have to disconnect the wires, I woukd just pull the starter with wires attached. It should come out a lot easier than the original. (The original date coded starter is safely in a storage tote.)
Jim
 
beautiful. thanks for all the detail.

just wondering.....Dynomat weighs a ton. Would you use it again or opt for a lighter product? For what it is worth, I used the heavy Dynomat on my silver duster over the floor exhaust area, but opted for the lighter stuff where there was no heat. I have throttled back on any of it in recent builds, if I drive similar cars with and without it....no noticeable difference except a lighter wallet.
 
beautiful. thanks for all the detail.

just wondering.....Dynomat weighs a ton. Would you use it again or opt for a lighter product? For what it is worth, I used the heavy Dynomat on my silver duster over the floor exhaust area, but opted for the lighter stuff where there was no heat. I have throttled back on any of it in recent builds, if I drive similar cars with and without it....no noticeable difference except a lighter wallet.
It is not very heavy. I used approx 2 packs which is 30 lbs total. Dave Rea, one of the top Mopar restorers uses it on his restorations unless customers dont want it.
I will add a layer of 1/4” closed cell foam on top for sound absorption. This combination of damping and absorption that has the biggest effect
 
It is not very heavy. I used approx 2 packs which is 30 lbs total. Dave Rea, one of the top Mopar restorers uses it on his restorations unless customers dont want it.
I will add a layer of 1/4” closed cell foam on top for sound absorption. This combination of damping and absorption that has the biggest effect


Aircraft Spruce in Branford has 1/4 inch aircraft insulation that has a foil layer on both sides that works great for heat and noise absorption. I used that stuff in combination with Dynamat. Works great.

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Spent a few days recently to start to work on the dash. Installed LED lamps in the dash, disassembled the 4-way flasher and rear defroster switches to clean the 52 year old contacts and fit a new speaker. The lamp bracket for the AC controls had to be modified to fit under the speaker magnet
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Cleaned and restored the ash tray. Added an electronic flasher because I'm installing front/rear LED lamps. These electronic flashers are often polarity sensitive. On my convertible, I had to reverse the terminals in the connectors for emergency and turn signal flashers to get them to work.
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Slow progress these days!! Spring cleanup in the yard was a high priority for my better half!! Also a couple of carb overhauls (one of my sidelines) that were not straight forward. Neither ones were Mopars!! A '68 Pontiac 400 Q Jet and an a little tiny 1 bbl Autolite carb from a friends '68 Mustang 6 cyl!!! I spend hours researching the mustang carb because I've never worked on one before and found that the carb is actually from a '65 Mustang and the distributor is from a '67!!! Turns out they are not compatible!!
Anyway - back to the restoration - Finally got the new dash wiring harness installed. My Cuda has many options and the basic harness does not include that wiring, so some rework was required. Before I install the dash, I'll power it up and check everything to make sure it all works!!

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