360 engine vibration at ~3000rpm

Gents,
Though I have not yet re-installed my new engine (Covid concerns mainly), I did want to provide some feedback on this thread.
-I had my completed stroker(414 cu-in) engine broken-in & dyno tested at Dale Meers shop in mid-jan and the resulted are included in the pics below. Results were 490-ft-lbs at 3200 rpm & 419 HP at 5200 rpm with a 680cfm vac-adv. ATM carb.(which i am happy with) ..As per Dale, we could've achieved some bigger numbers with a slightly larger, mechanical adv. carb., but..(see below)
-MAJOR PARTS: Crank is part of an Eagle stroker kit with icon flat top pistons; Compression ratio is expected to be ~10.6; cam is flat-tappet Comp cams CRS XE274H-10 (.488 lift intake,491 lift ext.; duration @.050 = 230 intake, 236 ext.; lobe sep.=110 deg.); intake is an edelbrock air-gap 7576 intake; Heads are edelbrock 60179; roller rocker arms are Comp 1622,...& a few other goodies, like oil pan baffle plate, etc..))
-As you can see from the graph, the torque plot looks is on the downward slope at the far left. Since I have a vac. adv. carb., & their dyno uses a water-based torque converter as a load, it was not possible to get the secondaries fully open at lower RPMs. (Dale guesses it could produce just above 500-ft-lbs, with the existing carb. when loaded by pulling a car.)
-We did have some plans to try a larger carb, different Vac. adv. springs, etc.., but my original oil pan developed a couple of pin-hole leaks on its side where surface rust was present. It wasn't leaking badly, but it did need to be corrected, so... Dale's dyno guy (Nick) helped me replace the oil pan with a used Moroso pan they sold to me from their parts bin in the afternoon before I left their shop.
-Other interesting tidbits:
a) My engine is a 1970 block (see pic)which is apparently somewhat rare.
b) My old heads are nothing fancy (360 casting see# 4027596) and the engine builder (Gene at Auburndale in Louisville) convinced me to shift to edelbrock alum. heads as opposed to trying to work mine. (NOTE: I have these heads CHEAP for anyone that is interested; they were performing fine when pulled from the engine, had good compression, etc..)
c) I also have my original cam (see pics). I tried to cross the numbers stamped on the eng to a specific Comp cam model/grind, but could not find a cross ref.? (NOTE: I also have this cam available for anyone interested CHEAP. It was also performing fine when pulled and sounded pretty good with a noticeable lope at idle.)
d) THE LAST PHOTO is the reason my main bearings started to make noise which caused me to pull the engine. On 2 of the crank bearings, the previous IDIOT who "rebuilt" the engine, decided to put small pieces of brass shim stock btwn the bearing backs and the block (to try and fix a clearance issue I guess?). as you can see, it caused both of these bearings to wear excessively/fail exactly where these shims had been placed.
-----Any questions, OR for any interest in my "extra parts. just drop me a line..
-Scott

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Over the last 4 decades I have seen some shoty engine builders handy work but putting shims under a main bearing, that's a new one.
Chalk one up for Hall of Shame.