Question for Super Stock Thermoquad racers

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19DART66

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Is there anyone on FABO or know someone who is running a 72 to 76 NHRA Super Stock 340 or 360 A body, would like to know what mods you did to your Thermoquad to feed enough fuel through the single inlet to the 2 sets of needles and seats to keep an ample enough fuel in the bowls in order to stop the engine from leaning out going down the track? Have tried larger needles and seats more fuel pressure, air door adjustments, larger jets. Just can't seem to keep enough fuel flowing through the carb to feed the engine. Any help will be much appreciated, Thank You
 
Do you have the side feed or center feed
 
Is there anyone on FABO or know someone who is running a 72 to 76 NHRA Super Stock 340 or 360 A body, would like to know what mods you did to your Thermoquad to feed enough fuel through the single inlet to the 2 sets of needles and seats to keep an ample enough fuel in the bowls in order to stop the engine from leaning out going down the track? Have tried larger needles and seats more fuel pressure, air door adjustments, larger jets. Just can't seem to keep enough fuel flowing through the carb to feed the engine. Any help will be much appreciated, Thank You
@Bewy @Locomotion
 
I run a Carter AFB carburetor on the AMX. But I was building a 360 for a 75 Dart Sport to run in NHRA Stock. So I have a couple of Thermoquads I was going to try. I would say make sure you have good fuel pump, regulator, and all the lines supplying the carburetor. I had a issue with a Mallory system on the AMX, have a Magna Flow pump on now that works great.
 
Your key maybe setting up a 1 to 1 linkage.
A 1-1 on a TQ?
There is a Thermoquad group on Facebook.
They are nuts about these Carbs.

Carter Thermoquad Club/MANLEY Thermoquads | Facebook
Thanks for posting that!
Side feed
Got a picture of a side feed TQ?
I’d like to see that done.
Drill out the passage ways
What passage ways?

I paged Bewy (and Locomotion because he did get a TQ to try out, but don’t know how he faired) because he is in a thread making some real good steam with a TQ and he has not altered the way fuel gets into the carb and the passage says after the fuel line connects to it. I even asked about it. If he drilled the two long branches right after the hard line connects to the carb to the needle and seat. I thought that one day I might try it myself once I got the experimental toy engine up and running. He said he did t need to do it.

Here is a day’s thread. Read up.
Dyno results - Tquad vs Holley vs Qjet - tuning issue, too rich

A quick link to the dyno graph page;
Dyno results - Tquad vs Holley vs Qjet - tuning issue, too rich
 
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What size line from pump to regulator? What size from reg to carb?
 
Thanks everyone for your response to this question, to give more insight in to what is going on. Back in the 90's I was running an 80 Mirada with a W2 372 in. with 11.6 comp. and 590 MP solid cam, I started out with a TQ from a 73 440 side feed, and for a short time I had a 1000 cfm Comp TQ center feed. The car at the time hit a brick wall in the low 11's, just would not feed it enough fuel to go any quicker. I bolted an 830 Holley on it with no other changes to the fuel system and the car dropped in to the 10.8's. A few months ago I had a discussion with a friend who managed to get his car in to the 10.8's before he ran into the same problem, his car runs in the Fast class and he can't do any mods that do not look stock. Last night I got thinking about this and thought what are the guys running Super Stock doing, because they generally run quit a bit quicker than low 11's high 10's. Thinking about this a little more I realized that(I think, not sure) Super Stock can mod there carburetors as needed as long as it is the right part# for the year car and engine.
 
Yes thanks partsmonsta for posting that facebook page, I personally don't do facebook but I think he does.
 
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Thanks rumblefish for the links. ceedawg on my car I ran -8 from fuel cell to regulator and -6 to carb. I think he is running 3/8 from tank to pump and 5/16 to carb but not 100% sure.
 
N
Thanks everyone for your response to this question, to give more insight in to what is going on. Back in the 90's I was running an 80 Mirada with a W2 372 in. with 11.6 comp. and 590 MP solid cam, I started out with a TQ from a 73 440 side feed, and for a short time I had a 1000 cfm Comp TQ center feed. The car at the time hit a brick wall in the low 11's, just would not feed it enough fuel to go any quicker. I bolted an 830 Holley on it with no other changes to the fuel system and the car dropped in to the 10.8's. A few months ago I had a discussion with a friend who managed to get his car in to the 10.8's before he ran into the same problem, his car runs in the Fast class and he can't do any mods that do not look stock. Last night I got thinking about this and thought what are the guys running Super Stock doing, because they generally run quit a bit quicker than low 11's high 10's. Thinking about this a little more I realized that(I think, not sure) Super Stock can mod there carburetors as needed as long as it is the right part# for the year car and engine.

not quite true, they can run any TQ as long as the primary bore is right for the particular engine. D/Stock Auto Duster with a TQ has run in the 9s so they flow enough fuel in fact a friends G car (low comp 340) used a third more fuel with the TQ over an AED 850, both ran the same ET. The step rods are removed and Holley jets are installed in there place. The reason I asked what size line from pump to reg was to many cars have to big a line and the pump cannot force all that heavy fuel up front. A 3/8 line is all that’s needed to the reg then a #8 or 10 to the carb for volume. Set reg to 7-9 psi, that will put enough fuel in there.
 
rumblefish after reading through those two threads I think I was looking in the wrong direction. I never put a vacuum gage on my car, just assumed it was running out of fuel because the car would go into limbo in high gear and just switching to the holley the car pulled hard through the whole quarter.

Thank you ceedawg for those pointers.

After reading this new information about TQ, I wish now I never gave away my two 1000 cfm comp. carbs. rumblefish the two comp carbs I had, had the screw in sec. jets, but my strip kit was for the press in jets. If I remember correctly(that was around 28 years ago) I found that the sec. jets the long ones from the production carbs had the same thread size the comp. carbs, so I cut two down to size and drilled and tapped them for holley jets, then drill holley jet out a few sizes bigger and smaller than what came in the carb stock.
 
not to hijack this thread, but anyone know what size drill to drill the secondary spray bars for a mid build big block? I had all the specs saved in a folder years ago and now can not find them.
 
Drill to feed the need and not what a book says or what another person did as a fix all. See what the engine likes or not.

The secondary tubes interior are very thin to begin with.
The holes drilled into the spray bar vary in size, location and amount through out the years.
 
find a mopar race manual from the 80;s it tells you how to make a T Q work. everything in it has been tested before, manifold determines mods required for each carb. no guess work about it,just food for thought!
 
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