Rain gutters and body seam sealers

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Mineallmine

Mineallmine

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I am working my way through a resto of my 63 Dart 2 door post and am close to epoxy primer and have a couple questions. I have removed most of the old tar based seam sealer from the inside of the car and plan to redo it once the car is in epoxy.

What I am trying to figure out is what it is they used in the rain gutters and on the seams on the outside of the car? The sealant in the gutters is separating (shrinking I assume) from the roof and I would like to clean it out and replace once the car is epoxy primed. Also there is a sealant used in numerous places on the places where panels were joined (not where it was leaded) like in the rear bumper area and around the door openings and where the rocker meets the quarter panel.

I am pretty sure it wasn't bondo but could be mistaken. Any input would be appreciated.
 
I am using 2 part OEM bead over the seams that I epoxy prime first. Tape on both sides of the seam for a nice smooth application. Seems to work really well, but it's expensive and you need a high ratio caulking gun to apply it.
 
Eastwood sells a product that is a single tube and self leveling. I have to reseal mine after using an inferior product that appeared to work well and now has cracked all to hell and back. I'll be trying the Eastwood sealer next.
 
Follow Post 2. Dig out the old and prime then seal. IMO the longer it sits before paint the better to prevent shrinkage and cracks.
 
CFD244 said:
I am using 2 part OEM bead over the seams that I epoxy prime first. Tape on both sides of the seam for a nice smooth application. Seems to work really well, but it's expensive and you need a high ratio caulking gun to apply it.
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Do you know the name of the 2 part bead? I have read that the 2 part is better for external applications but not sure which one to get. Don't mind paying a little more if it's going to last. Don't want to be doing all this work only to have it shrink and crack in a couple years.

It will be getting applied over epoxy primer. Inside I plan to use the regular brush on seam sealer, but want the better quality stuff for the outside where it can be seen.
 
Mineallmine said:
Do you know the name of the 2 part bead? I have read that the 2 part is better for external applications but not sure which one to get. Don't mind paying a little more if it's going to last. Don't want to be doing all this work only to have it shrink and crack in a couple years.

It will be getting applied over epoxy primer. Inside I plan to use the regular brush on seam sealer, but want the better quality stuff for the outside where it can be seen.
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Here's the stuff I use.
images_ePIM_original_100822_MAXIMOEMBead_Cart_WEB_w400_q75.jpg


I bought the 26:1 caulking gun because the tube actually has 2 separate chambers and utilizes a mixing tube. I tried a regular gun, but it is really hard going. Check Evercoat's website. They have other products there as well. I avoided the single stage brush on stuff. Why.....I think 2k is more durable? Who knows. Good luck.
 
Mineallmine said:
It will be getting applied over epoxy primer. Inside I plan to use the regular brush on seam sealer, but want the better quality stuff for the outside where it can be seen.
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That's how I did both of mine . I didn't use two part but would probably be a good choice .
 
CFD244 said:
Here's the stuff I use.View attachment 1715687447

I bought the 26:1 caulking gun because the tube actually has 2 separate chambers and utilizes a mixing tube. I tried a regular gun, but it is really hard going. Check Evercoat's website. They have other products there as well. I avoided the single stage brush on stuff. Why.....I think 2k is more durable? Who knows. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Awesome!! That's the same stuff I found last night after you posted about the oem 2 part. I'll have to pick up a gun and a couple tubes to use after the epoxy is sprayed and had some time to fully cure. Probably after body work and shortly before applying hi build. Will have to give it a few days I figure to fully cure and off vent any gases to not affect the hi build though. Better safe than sorry with this much effort.
 
I normally apply the OEM bead in the same window that the TDS of the epoxy I use advises to put filler on. In my case, The TDS says to allow the Epoxy to dry 24 hrs before applying filler...So that's my window. Also, You can use a tight rubber glove with your finger dipped in lacquer thinner to smooth the sealant out. Just don't wait too long.

Also, if you are buying the gun, you might as well use the 2 part everywhere instead of the brush on. Especially under the hood, A pillars to rocker seam etc. Get a couple of extra mixing tubes (nozzels) as well. Then you won't have to rush the job.
 
CFD244 said:
Here's the stuff I use.View attachment 1715687447

I bought the 26:1 caulking gun because the tube actually has 2 separate chambers and utilizes a mixing tube. I tried a regular gun, but it is really hard going. Check Evercoat's website. They have other products there as well. I avoided the single stage brush on stuff. Why.....I think 2k is more durable? Who knows. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Does it come out kinda transparent blue?
 
CFD244 said:
Here's the stuff I use.View attachment 1715687447

I bought the 26:1 caulking gun because the tube actually has 2 separate chambers and utilizes a mixing tube. I tried a regular gun, but it is really hard going. Check Evercoat's website. They have other products there as well. I avoided the single stage brush on stuff. Why.....I think 2k is more durable? Who knows. Good luck.
Click to expand...
Thanks again for the tip. Went out yesterday and picked up 2 tubes. NAPA had it at the NAPA paint supply store close to me, and as luck would have it, it was on sale. Still cost $50, but better than $75 a tube. Hoping to get it in primer in the next week or two, then apply the seam sealer from there. Hoping to see color on it by early spring if time and money allows.
 
Mineallmine said:
Thanks again for the tip. Went out yesterday and picked up 2 tubes. NAPA had it at the NAPA paint supply store close to me, and as luck would have it, it was on sale. Still cost $50, but better than $75 a tube. Hoping to get it in primer in the next week or two, then apply the seam sealer from there. Hoping to see color on it by early spring if time and money allows.
Click to expand...

So, I finally got to the point to apply seam sealer. I must say that it went pretty good. Of course I decided to try using my regular gun to apply it. I won't do that next time. Like stated SUPER hard to get it out of tube with a regular gun. Do yourself a favor and buy the high ratio gun to apply it. And yes, it dries rock hard. This stuff isn't going anywhere. Did the entire exterior over and all of the trunk and rear seat area. As for front area there was some areas that were not shrunk and holding like new so I left those and only applied it where I removed the loose sections. Should last for another 50 years. :)

Thanks again for the suggestions

back floor sealer.jpg


Front floor sealer.jpg


rain gutter sealer.jpg


RH body sealer 1.jpg


RH body sealer 2.jpg


trunk sealer.jpg
 
Mineallmine said:
So, I finally got to the point to apply seam sealer. I must say that it went pretty good. Of course I decided to try using my regular gun to apply it. I won't do that next time. Like stated SUPER hard to get it out of tube with a regular gun. Do yourself a favor and buy the high ratio gun to apply it. And yes, it dries rock hard. This stuff isn't going anywhere. Did the entire exterior over and all of the trunk and rear seat area. As for front area there was some areas that were not shrunk and holding like new so I left those and only applied it where I removed the loose sections. Should last for another 50 years. :)

Thanks again for the suggestions

View attachment 1715732468

View attachment 1715732470

View attachment 1715732471

View attachment 1715732472

View attachment 1715732473

View attachment 1715732474
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Your seam sealing looks really professional. Nice work. I have never been a big fan of the hard surfaced sealers. I don't like the idea of only having a few hours to topcoat it without sanding it. I've seen a lot of topcoats peal off of it.
 
Bodyperson said:
Your seam sealing looks really professional. Nice work. I have never been a big fan of the hard surfaced sealers. I don't like the idea of only having a few hours to topcoat it without sanding it. I've seen a lot of topcoats peal off of it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment. I'm no professional by any means but am happy with the results. As for the sanding that's not really an issue as I planned to give the entire car another scuff with the 400 grit before spraying the sealer coat. But yes, it does add another step to the process.
 
Mineallmine said:
Thanks for the compliment. I'm no professional by any means but am happy with the results. As for the sanding that's not really an issue as I planned to give the entire car another scuff with the 400 grit before spraying the sealer coat. But yes, it does add another step to the process.
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Not only does it add another step but now we have dust contamination so lots of cleaning with solvents and the chance of having a non sanded area. The beauty of epoxy is its non sanding properties. I'm sure you will be fine, just clean clean clean before more topcoats. Seam sealing is generally the last thing I do right before topcoating.
 
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