James’ 1974 W200 build
You probably don’t have to go to the extreme like I did, most likely your wheel studs would be okay, the old rotors could be turned, mine were shot. You don’t need warn premiums, you could save $50 by going with the mile markers. So there is a couple hundred savings right there.
from the Chevy axle you will need everything from the stub shafts out. Use the existing dodge knuckles, the Chevy knuckles have a bigger hole for the tie rod ends which doesn’t work with the dodge’s steering link.
You will need to find a Chevy Dana 44 or 10 bolt. They are the same. I think ‘73-‘87 are the years. Must be a 3/4 ton 8 lug truck. I found a complete axle for 80 bucks. K-that is unusually cheap. The rotors and pads I got at Summit, 110 to my door for those. I spent 250 at RockAuto for inner/outer wheel bearings, wheel seals, axle u-joints, and upper/lower ball joints. I had to buy 16 new wheel studs because the ones that came off the donor axle were too rusty. $50 at Orielly Auto Parts. The calipers were reman units I got at CarQuest, those were $50. I also had to buy new warn hubs, the ones off my donor axle were missing. I opted for Warn Premiums, at Summit those are $127. Roughly $670 total all parts including the donor axle.
You probably don’t have to go to the extreme like I did, most likely your wheel studs would be okay, the old rotors could be turned, mine were shot. You don’t need warn premiums, you could save $50 by going with the mile markers. So there is a couple hundred savings right there.
from the Chevy axle you will need everything from the stub shafts out. Use the existing dodge knuckles, the Chevy knuckles have a bigger hole for the tie rod ends which doesn’t work with the dodge’s steering link.
