273 Electronic Ignition Issues

You should not have to trace those wires. That is why in a post above I gave you voltage measurements to take, here is the deal

The ignition switch has of course

BATTERY power into it off the ammeter circuit. This is NOT fused

The outputs are as follows

ACCESSORY.......This feeds power to the switched buss in the accessory fuse panel, and is hot with the key in either "run" or "acc." This feeds stuff like wipers, heater, radio, etc

RUN or IGN1....This is hot ONLY in the "run" position, ONLY. This is normally dark blue and feeds out through the bulkhead connector, and feeds such things under the hood as the VR IGN terminal, the "key" side of the ballast resistor, on some cars electric choke if used. This is NOT fused.

"BYPASS" or IGN2.....This comes off a separate ignition switch contact and is hot ONLY in "start" just like the "start" wire below........but it is a SEPARATE circuit. This feeds out into the bay and goes to the coil+ side of the ballast. THIS IS WHAT provides starting power during cranking This wire is normally brown out of the bulkhead

"START" Like "bypass" above, this is hot with the key in start. Normally yellow, this feeds out through the bulkhead to the starter relay. On auto trans cars, the "cold" side of the relay coil / magnet leads down to the transmission neutral safety switch, which goes to ground in P or N so the start relay will fire from the key

So you NEED to determine if both the RUN / IGN1 and the BYPASS/ IGN2 are working, because both are needed to start and run

So again..........Clip your meter from coil+ to ground, and turn the key to "run". Read the meter. Current is flowing through the system, through the resistor, through the coil, and through the ignition box and SHOULD BE lower than 12V (lower than battery v) You could expect maybe 6-10V here. If lower, it's not getting "something" and if up near battery, the box/ coil/ resistor is not drawing current

Next, with meter connected as above, crank engine while watcing meter. Do this using the key. You want to see minimum of 10.5 or more, and hopefully very close to same as battery......EG if battery is 11, this voltage should read close to 11

These two readings tell you that the system is getting power from the harness, and you don't need to chase wiring around under the dash "for now."