Leaking rear end 1967 Barracuda

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fishyfish36

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4 speed slant 6 factory rear end. I dont think its the gasket and I believe it may be the seal where the driveshaft inputs. Can someone chime in and give me some information on what to do to replace that along with a parts source.

Thanks All
 
Rockauto is your best friend. Figure out what you need. Your best bet is make a list and buy multiple parts that you know your going to need, and try to get them all coming from the same location at rockauto. This saves you on multiple shipping charges. Sometimes theres parts on closeout that they run deep discounts on just to get rid of them.

Theres a little delivery truck icon after you load your first item in the cart that tells you other different items you may be looking at will also ship from that same location. This saves on shipping fees from multiple sources.

Check with retail me not and other sources for rockauto discount codes. Apply the code where it says "where have you heard of us" below the parts total prior to checkout. These are typically 10% off, but help with sales tax and a little of the shipping.

Only things I buy locally now is chemicals like oil and antifreeze at walmart, or something I may need in a pinch like a piece of heater hose I needed to fix my wife's van, or a taillight bulb etc. I even buy oil filters from Rockauto for our daily drivers in bulk typically 6-8 at a time.

I have never had a mess up from rockauto on their part. They have always sent exactly what I ordered. I did get some wrong oil filters but I specced them for a 1994 chevy K1500 and not a 1994 chevy C1500. There is a difference.
 
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Probably only needs a new seal, but upon removing the yoke, inspect the sealing surface on the yoke. There might be a groove in it caused by the old seal. In these cases it's better to replace the yoke.
 
If it's the pinion seal remove the driveshaft remove the pinion yoke nut and use a puller to pull the yoke off the pinion use a seal puller to pull the old seal out. Inspect the seal surface on the yoke and clean it up with some crocus cloth if necessary replace the yoke install a new seal and reinstall the yoke and nut and torque the nut to 240 ft lbs. reinstall the driveshaft and check the fluid in the rear axle. Note the early 7 1/4 axle has a shim for pinion bearing preload so changing the seal will not effect the preload. That being said worn out bearings or damage from being run low on oil can cause wear on parts. If it was mine I would tear it down and inspect it for further damage and rebuild it back up. I am also not advocating rebuilding it with all new parts good bearings and gears do not need to be replaced. Clean inspect and replace what's bad.
 
It has something to do with each city / county / and the state of CO can have their own tax and RA would not deal with that many variables in the tax being charged.
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Remove the pinion nut and pull the yoke off. Pry the oil seal out like a balancer seal and tap a new one in. Check the yoke for scoring at the seal surface.

>>>DITTO WHAT BCSCHIEF SAID MINUTE BEFORE ME<<<<
 
Not sure what it uses for a vent, you need to make sure its not plugged. As diff warms up,if vent is plugged, oil will push out.
 
Well, how much work do you want to put into this? For me- I can't work on anything without leaving it clean, showing that it has been fixed. This 7 1/4" is showing normal years of gasket seepage coming from the pinion seal, splines on the pinion shaft and the cover, and replacement u-joint. I would thoroughly clean the entire "pumpkin" area, yoke and end of driveshaft. My intent would be not to create a show car but to just have everything clean. Then I would replace the pinion seal and add some RTV behind the pinion nut/washer to seal any possible leaks there. Replace the cover gasket. Inspect the u-joint, if there is a zerk, lightly grease it. Now you should be fixed for a long time.
 
I just wanted to check it over, and it got away on me..i didnt even have an engine for project crusty dart. Take a little time and clean it up,before you tear it down, keeps the grit and grime out of diff.
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I will be replacing the rear end entirely so I dont want to dump too much effort and money into it. I will clean it up as suggested and just want to get this leak fixed at the moment. What seal should I get ? I looked online and there are multiple options, can someone drop a link? I'll start this once I obtain the parts. I also need to source a gasket for the cover since I want to drain it then just top it off with new fluids.
 
Looks like 7.25.9 bolts. different brands,same seal. I included the repair sleeve,you wont know if you need it until you pull yoke. Yoke puller is my harmonic balancer puller,bolted to yoke with two bolts diagonally.
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Looks like 7.25.9 bolts. different brands,same seal. I included the repair sleeve,you wont know if you need it until you pull yoke. Yoke puller is my harmonic balancer puller,bolted to yoke with two bolts diagonally.View attachment 1715690682 View attachment 1715690683 View attachment 1715690684

Thanks Tooljunkie for the references, the parts have been ordered which totaled $30.56$ I sourced everything from Ebay using the part #s. I went and got the sleeve too might as well since I saved$. I will tackle this likely next week. This community is great and have been super helpful Moparmat always chimes in and gives good tips. I am appreciative!
 
Oh by the way to remove the fill plug just use a breaker bar after you dig all the dirt out of the plug so you get full engagement. No special tool needed.
 
:popcorn:
I need to do this too.

Perhaps you could make a "how to" and post some photos of what you did? What whent well, what didn't etc!
 
:popcorn:
I need to do this too.

Perhaps you could make a "how to" and post some photos of what you did? What whent well, what didn't etc!

I always post chronological updates, I will document the task. Keep in mind I will not be doing a full restore.
- Clean up grime
- swap out the pinion seal
- inspect gears & change cover gasket
- top off fluids
 
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