pishta
I know I'm right....
It slings the oil off the crank snout before it gets to the balancer seal. Many times its been omitted with no ill effects.
Replacing timing chain
- Thread starter Romulo Roderiques
- Start date
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More of those things have been left out than I can count. I do like to put them back, but I've forgotten a time or two and said screw it. It'll be fine.
I forgot to put mine in too man! it's been sitting on my box since August, No problem...
Another thing to add.......seal technology has come light years ahead of when those oil slingers were used anyway. Seals are WAY better than they used to be, so I really wouldn't sweat it.
James Clews
Well-Known Member
Those slingers were designed to work with the single row timming chain but with the double roller chains that we use now they foul against the chain and tear up. I would not put back the slinger unless you are using the factory type chain and sprockets!
Not sure about slingers getting torn up or fouling double roller timing chains. Need to see pictures of that to believe it. Same with the tensioner pads getting worn from double roller chains. Maybe people are using cheap double roller chains? But I use both the factory slinger and tensioner with a quality chain set and after three years of street use and drag racing everything is fine. No way the slinger even comes close to the chain (as shown) so people must be running some questionable chain and gears sets. Might be a good idea to test fit everything to ensure no interference.
That's been my experience as well. I've run several tensioners with zero issues. Used the slinger with double roller sets too.
Romulo Roderiques
Well-Known Member
Got it all bolted back up last night. I had the hardest time placing the cover back down with moving that stupid lower seal around the front of the pan. It kept moving in towards the inside of the oil pan. Had to squeeze it, move it, hold it etc... Those stupid eubber nipples they claim should hold it from moving
.yeah
.yeah
Tensioner plastic gets hard and brittle over time, cracks and bits brake off.
Think the nylon coated teeth of the 60s ford 289 / 302 and I suspect any other manufacturer that tried that.
All I can say is that has been my experience. Both engines were older and high milage 150 to 180,000 miles but otherwise in perfect running condition.
Think the nylon coated teeth of the 60s ford 289 / 302 and I suspect any other manufacturer that tried that.
All I can say is that has been my experience. Both engines were older and high milage 150 to 180,000 miles but otherwise in perfect running condition.
Proper context needed. Valve stem seals from years ago and with age harden, crack drop down into engine, various engine and transmission seals and gaskets harden and fail, tires harden with age and sidewalls dry rot, plastic knobs and buttons crack and fall apart for heater components, stereo dials and knobs. A new tight timing chain turning into a sloppy timing chain (don’t matter what chain or how top of the line it bay be) soon after install with no tensioner or a nice taunt chain using a tensioner for many miles and years to come. Yeah, tensioner it is!
I've used slingers with double roller timing chains for I don't even know how many years. Never had a problem. And if I remember correctly, 340's were factory equipped with double roller timing chains and a slinger.
As for the modern tensioner, I have one, but didn't have the nerve to try it, as I wasn't convinced it would be safe with a double roller chain. I did pull the timing cover as I was finishing up my 65 Barracuda header install, just to check the timing chain, as it's been in the car for probably a dozen years or more by now. On the other hand, it's not my daily driver anymore, and probably doesn't have 10,000 miles on it. Anyway, it was fine, so I didn't put in the new double row chain I have in the box on a shelf in my garage. Will save it for my 67 Barracuda, if it needs it.
Every 340 had them with a double roller timing chain from the factory. Kim
cudamark
Well-Known Member
So did lots of trucks, police, and other HP engines.....
furrystump
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Ok. I would also not put a tensioner in it. Mine came apart and the flat spring started to eat its way through the side of the cover. The guide broke, it did not wear through. I buy the best chain/set I can get and thats it.
jbc426
Well-Known Member
Here's a tip I stumbled across 20 years ago when using my chainsaw and I ran out of chain/bar oil. I filled it with Redline synthetic gear oil. My chains started to last 5 times as long without stretching. I soaked my timing chain on it's side in the stuff overnight, and they virtually stopped stretching anymore after break in. It is amazingly effective actually. I've had the same result on half a dozen builds since then.
340challconv
Member
Here is a pic of the little gasket "wings" that go on the edges of the oil pan lip on each side of the rubber gasket!
Dan the man
Well-Known Member
No tool needed, the cam is held in place by a plate as all the sbm are.
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