American Powertrain Hydramax install?

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Map63Vette

Map63Vette

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Wondering if anyone out there has installed one of these kits and had pictures. I'd really like to see some pictures of the master cylinder install and their little fancy bracket. Does it use the stock pickup point on the pedal for the rod? Also, do you happen to know the bore and stroke of the master supplied with the kit (or that you used)? How about pedal feel? I know that's somewhat clutch based, but curious anyway.

I ask because I'm thinking about trying to make the little bracket myself, but probably without the swivel feature. I was planning on just measuring the stock clutch rod angle and making a bracket to mount the master at the same angle. I will likely have to go to a hydraulic clutch if I go through with a 6 speed swap, but I'd like to try to use the stock opening for the clutch rod instead of cutting up the firewall and the American Powertrain kit is the only one I've seen that mounts the master that way.
 
Last word I got from someone using one in an A-body was the fitting in the end of the MC didnt clear the inner fender.
 
Hmm, I guess that's another question then, which master cylinder ships with the kit? I figured I'd probably get one of my own and make the bracket to fit it, so that's something important to keep in mind, where the fitting comes out.
 
i may have mine mocked up tomorrow some time, or later this week of i cannot get to it. I have no inner fenders though...
 
I have one on my 1971 Demon. The fender does pose a bit of an issue m. A little massaging will help. Im still trying to get the geometry right. The Wilwood cylinder provided has only 1.5” of travel so its relying on good geometry on the clutch pedal mount. Ill take pictures once i get it right this week
 
I have done a little research, did not get a lot of feedback. You can delete the master cyl from Amer Powertrain or any other part if you want. I think that in their kit, there are instructions on where the new pedal to mstr cyl rod will be located at the pedal. The mstr cyl mounts in the current clutch rod hole.
I need to have a softer pedal, haven't found someone that had a like setup as mine, and get a definitive answer.
Somewhere in the clutch threads here, someone was making an aluminum part to attach at the firewall. It would replace the adj angled part that Amer Powertrain uses.
 
CRUZE 418 said:
I think that in their kit, there are instructions on where the new pedal to mstr cyl rod will be located at the pedal.
Click to expand...

EDIT: I realize I resurrected such an ancient post but I didn’t really see much about this in the first place so... here we are.

Yeah their clutch rod suggested location seems a bit too far up on the pedal arm. This, for me resulted in hardly any clutch pedal travel at all. Im thinking of redrilling a new hole closer to the pivot point granting more mechanical advantage over the Hydraulic cylinder pressure and a longer clutch pedal stroke. Will submit pics when finished
 
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No worries, I know the feeling. I ended up fabbing up my own setup based on some other installs here. It's not as pretty, but probably more structurally sound than relying on the firewall alone for support. I welded a tab to the side of the main pedal support or something like that where the brake master cylinder/booster mounts. That way all the pressure is being more evenly spaced out over thicker metal. I had to flatten the firewall some to make it work though, so it's not really pretty and not something I'd want to do with a valuable car as it's not exactly the most reversible option. Overall my pedal feel is okay and seems to function fine with my T56, though it's not as "clean" feeling as a clutch in a modern car. I'm sure I could tune the geometry better, though some of that could just be my clutch setup as well. I originally started with a 3 finger style pressure plate, but swapped over to a diaphragm style after finding out I had a cracked finger that was keeping the clutch from fully releasing. I think some of my perceived issues are tune based as well. I used to think the clutch released somewhat non-linear since it seemed like there was a point in the travel that would really bog the engine hard in very little pedal movement, but after playing with the tune I've got it more sorted out where that is less noticeable and it's a smoother engagement.
 
Yes, pictures will be great when they post them. There are other cyl available so that you don't have to pound in the inner fenderwell. Just dug out my notes, I have the Willwood cyl # 260-6089 ? .750 bore, 1.25 stroke, $53.60. as the replacement cyl. that you would delete from Amer Powertrain . Pressure line does not exit out of the end of the cyl. Cyl needs to be compatible with a remote reservoir. I believe that the rest of their kit to be good, they will talk with you about it. I talked with Jerry. Their kit # for us is # HMCH01101G
$ 671.
I'm going to go back and see if I can find the thread that I found a couple of weeks ago, will post it.
 
Page 11, 2 down. Clutch and Trans threads.
My set up
'69 Dart
Centerforce II clutch, diaphragm
Lake wood shield
Without the overcenter spring, might as well have a 3 finger B&B.
Have had 2 hernia surgerys, need a softer pedal push, that's my goal. Yeah I know, get an automatic.
 
Uncle Ben said:
EDIT: I realize I resurrected such an ancient post but I didn’t really see much about this in the first place so... here we are.

Yeah their clutch rod suggested location seems a bit too far up on the pedal arm. This, for me resulted in hardly any clutch pedal travel at all. Im thinking of redrilling a new hole closer to the pivot point granting more mechanical advantage over the Hydraulic cylinder pressure and a longer clutch pedal stroke. Will submit pics when finished
Click to expand...
This is what you need to do. I have already done this, hope this helps:
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My calculations showed the pedal was 11.5" long -> and the pin was approx 2 5/8 from the pivot center, giving an approximately 4.3:1 pedal ratio. The clutch slave needs somewhere between 5.5:1 and 6.25:1 to have the correct travel and pedal modulation.

I cut the original piece off, welded on a piece of 1 1/4" x 1/4" bar stock lapped over the original and drilled a hole at approx 1.9" from the pin to get a 6:1 pedal ratio. I left everything on the other side for the down stop and also for the clutch interlock switch.

Been driving it with it like this for two years and the travel is just like the original mechanical clutch.
 
I bought an angle bracket that places MC at the correct angle. The tilton MC is short enough to clear inner fender. The first pic is probably best.
IMG_0687.jpg


IMG_0672.jpg


IMG_0668.jpg
 
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Pretty busy area, hard to distinguish the porportioning valve from the clutch MC.
Whose kit did you start with?
I have finally gotten my 10 7/8" fork, adj rod, bellhousing pivot and bellcrank cut, welded and in harmony. I put my overcenter spring back in ( like I'm not supposed to do) . My clutch is now to my satisfaction. We will find out this coming summer if the clutch holds up. I want to keep this info on the hyd for plan B , just in case plan A goes south.
 
Agreed busy. That's my buddies, ill try to get some tomorrow of mine as its in pieces and has a black background. Stay tuned. Hollar if i don't post. Old man memory.
 
Wasn't there someone selling that mount?
He had someone do a 3D printer of what he wanted and then had a batch made up of aluminum.
 
I am here to follow this thread. Anyone know how well these hold up to racing abuse or are they more of a street car setup?
 
You could try giving American Powertrain a call and see what they have to say. Personally, don't know why it wouldn't hold up any different than hyd brakes.
 
I got mine from @68 A. nice peice for sure! I have yet to drive car but everything looks like the correct angles. The Tilton cylinder is shorter than the wilwood. I think its a 3/4"
 
clementine said:
I got mine from @68 A. nice peice for sure! I have yet to drive car but everything looks like the correct angles. The Tilton cylinder is shorter than the wilwood. I think its a 3/4"
Click to expand...
Thanks for the reply!

I’m looking at the American power train unit and it seems to look different than the ones in other pictures. Maybe they modified it to fit now?


I’m thinking of making my own kit as well

92FD12D2-26A4-4919-BEB4-59E0AED358DE.jpeg
 
That master looks like you will have to 'massage' the inner structure to make it fit. Whats the dimensions on that puppy?
 
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