Shift Shaft help

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Mako21

Mako21

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A couple weeks ago I had another thread about pinpointing the leak on my 904. It was definitely the shift shaft.

So I finally started yesterday and unfortunately it’s been very difficult.

I have clearance using the clamp method and all was going well. I tightened the shift shaft tool extractor onto the seal, it threaded on well. Then, using the bolt above I started turning it so to put pressure on the seal and pull it up. This is where my difficulty lies. The seal is not coming up, instead the rubber of the seal is just shaving off and falling to pieces and coming out in thin curved strands.

So now it’s leaking really bad and I’m out of ideas. I tried to carefully pick on the metal to metal outer side of the seal with a flathead screw driver but no luck in popping it out.

Any ideas? I really don’t want to drop the pan and punch it out. I feel like I’ll just be opening a whole other can of worms and create another leak point.

Since I got some of the seal off, now it’s REALLy leaking.

1EF7E61E-16B3-4C50-B714-298843495DEF.jpeg
 
Can your tool be threaded on further to grab the metal part of the seal? They don't come out easy.
 
Well that’s encouraging. I threaded the socket to hand tight and then a turn with a 5/8 wrench.

Should I thread /torque it more? I’m terrified of damaging something in the inner case of the tranny. Is it ok to turn that socket even more?
 
That seal sits on a "ledge" which prevents it from falling into the case. This will limit how far you can thread in before you start grabbing case.
 
Ok, I’ll give it a go again and report back here. Thanks!
 
That whole flat top part is rubber covered metal. I have had very good success with driving a screw in there or two at 180* and lifting it outta there with levers or just screwing the screws against the internal stop and having them pop it out.
I have been unlucky enough tho to have had zero success, too,lol.
 
Yep, tried a couple more hours yesterday. I’m definitely getting a good bite and full thread on the seal, but as I screw the bolt to lift the seal assembly, it just strips chords or rubber gasket with it from the old seal. I even tried just the tool and with a vice grip lifting straight up along the shaft to pop it but no luck.

I just purchased a hook and pick set at Home Depot. It’ll have to wait till Monday though...back to work today.


Where do people leverage the seal with a screw driver? At the outer flange metal of the seal where meets the transmission metal? My understanding is to avoid picking at the inner rubber area where the seal meets the valve body shaft. Is this correct?
 
Use the self tapping screws as AJ/FormS suggested, no need to remove the pan. I've down it that old fashioned way for many years.
 
I don't remove the pan and valve body to remove the seal from the bottom by punching it out. I remove it from the top with a screwdriver. Removing the vb makes room for the screwdriver. Plus you can use sandpaper to clean up the shaft. You need to get an eyeball on that shaft to check it for wear. It might need replaced, or, if it's not too bad, you can use a taller seal.
 
Mako21 said:
Yep, tried a couple more hours yesterday. I’m definitely getting a good bite and full thread on the seal, but as I screw the bolt to lift the seal assembly, it just strips chords or rubber gasket with it from the old seal. I even tried just the tool and with a vice grip lifting straight up along the shaft to pop it but no luck.

I just purchased a hook and pick set at Home Depot. It’ll have to wait till Monday though...back to work today.


Where do people leverage the seal with a screw driver? At the outer flange metal of the seal where meets the transmission metal? My understanding is to avoid picking at the inner rubber area where the seal meets the valve body shaft. Is this correct?
Click to expand...

The problem with using a screwdriver between the seal and shaft is the risk of scratching the shaft to the point it causes a leak for a different reason.
FYI, I use a drywall screw to puncture the outer rim of the seal.
Then screw the screw in a turn or so and clamp visegrips on the screw shaft.
Once thats done pry between the case and the visegrip jaws.
Drywall screws are really sharp pointed and hardened, so they punch a hole easily.
A 2 inch screw is about perfect for reaching with a hammer to punch the hole as well as pulling on to lift the seal.
It may help a lot and be worth lowering the trans cross member.
 
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