Geez, I hope I never have to sell my car here...
A good example of buying a 70 Duster done rather than building one
- Thread starter jimharvard
- Start date
-
If you think you can buy a H code Duster project and have less than 20K in it? Prove it to me.
67autocross
A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel
I watch friends building cars up here and they are at $20k US with just the body work done on the rusty shell they started with...
Exactly!
I have restored a lot of cars from mid 80's on. Way back. Talking 440-6 V code cudas, challengers, M code superbees, TA' AAr's and plenty of 383 Runners, and 440 RT Chargers. I did most of the work, but usually had a good but affordable body guy, Nuts and bolt jobs, I have never made a die on a resto....but I could buy a good project, clean it up and get it running and sell for a fair profit. With the condition of 99% of the E and B desirable projects today and their prices, it was easier back then to restore a good project back then that today. I saved some good cars that others bought and enjoyed and later sold for big profits no doubt.
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
Black firewall and rattle canned GM paint in the trunk....hmm.....and yeah that shifter would give your wrist a work out....
I like how you're so confident that it really is an H code Duster. There's no evidence of any matching numbers, the fender tag is MIA, and the VIN on the dash is hardly proof by itself.
I'm not disputing how much it costs to build one of these cars at all, I have a ton of money into mine and it isn't even painted. I just don't think this particular Duster is worth the $20k they're asking because it's a smoke and mirror show.
This car is just a rusty shell under a cheap coat of shiny green paint. It'll still take another $20k to make it right. The only difference is the person buying this one won't think they're starting with a rusty shell, and they'll already have spent the $20k.
You must have one hell of crystal ball to know know it’s a “rusty shell”
You can match the core support number with the dash vin and match the number on the left rear speaker shelf. Do they match I don’t know. If I was interested in buying it I would surely check. But I’m not going to call the seller a liar. My crystal ball is broke.
K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
So let's assume for a moment that it is an actual h code 340 Duster. The original post made mention to the price of building a car compared to one that is already partially completed. I would agree there are many flags that would have me really scrutinizing this car for it's authenticity. The door jamb repair really stands out to me and not in a good way. But you would be hard-pressed to buy a $5,000 basket case and bring it to the level of that car for less than $10,000 more and that is not including paint. A few body panels or fenders a 340 rebuild a few trim parts new tires and wheels and Bam you're there. While you're over halfway there.
K.O. SWINGER
Meeting in the alley since 1976
Oh and there's no way I'd pay $20,000 for that car!
67autocross
A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel
This car is just a rusty shell under a cheap coat of shiny green paint. It'll still take another $20k to make it right. The only difference is the person buying this one won't think they're starting with a rusty shell, and they'll already have spent the $20k.[/QUOTE]
It definitely looks suspect and personally I would never buy that type of car...either I would start with a shell and go from the ground up or I would pay the $40k and buy a very well documented car in top condition...but there is an *** for ever seat as they say in the used car biz...
It definitely looks suspect and personally I would never buy that type of car...either I would start with a shell and go from the ground up or I would pay the $40k and buy a very well documented car in top condition...but there is an *** for ever seat as they say in the used car biz...
Just because it looks good in a picture does not mean its a great deal. That Duster has a lot of issues for that money. Real nice 70 and 71 340 Duster 4 speeds are going for real good money right now. Unfortunately Automatics are at least 10 to 15k less
I’m amazed at how many experts can look at a picture and condemn it. I guess I need to learn more cause I ain’t that good. So I’m going to leave it to you experts.
Unless it a Canada Built car the its under the right fender and near the passenger side speaker.
ir3333
Well-Known Member
For me there is a lot of pleasure building and selecting parts. If you have a finished car there's not a lot to do.
Build your own and you definitely know what you have and how to sell it fairly and in good conscience
when the time comes.
Build your own and you definitely know what you have and how to sell it fairly and in good conscience
when the time comes.
I have always pretty much built from rollers, over the decades. I bought a few done, some, part done, some worked out great others....like, for example, the 71 RR that a "kid" replaced the water pump, lost the oem bolts, and wp in with grade 3 stuff! Then I have to take it off. Ha
I admit I am the worse at taking pics of my builds. Someone buys one of my cars I can tell there where I cut and welded, fabbed, but pics??? NOT usually. Too busy doing to think of pics. I know I should because these old cars always have found new homes. The prospective buyer might look and say'" I don't know what is under that paint"> I reply I just explained what and IF you don't want my word, then don't let the gate hit your *** leaving"! I should not be that way! If I was buying,I would love a pic book!!!
I have not built a real "good " car in years. Good means a car that most consider worthy of spending $$$ on. Like a 340 Duster, 383 cuda, 3383 Roadrunner for example. I have put the pencil to it, and IF I do all the work including body/pant, send the engine/ trans out for rebuild, nut and bolt, do the suspension, rear, brakes, exhaust, tires, interior. I could buy a 68-70 real RR project, I would have to give about $5-6000 for an average complete project. I would have $25000-30000 in it and that is just my $$$ in it and what I had to pay the machine shop and such. II cold get that back out, but in reality that is what they can actually be bought for.
I could make the same build back n the 90's and make exactualy zero for my work!! Only difference was, back then, I was buying a better project, giving $1000 for it, and selling it for $8500. That same project could usually be sold for $2500 with a wash out of rat turds and some fresh points! ha
Nothing changes.
So I just work on what I like, must be why, silly me, has 2 four door early B bodies right now!???? Be lucky to break even when they go away!! ha again
I admit I am the worse at taking pics of my builds. Someone buys one of my cars I can tell there where I cut and welded, fabbed, but pics??? NOT usually. Too busy doing to think of pics. I know I should because these old cars always have found new homes. The prospective buyer might look and say'" I don't know what is under that paint"> I reply I just explained what and IF you don't want my word, then don't let the gate hit your *** leaving"! I should not be that way! If I was buying,I would love a pic book!!!
I have not built a real "good " car in years. Good means a car that most consider worthy of spending $$$ on. Like a 340 Duster, 383 cuda, 3383 Roadrunner for example. I have put the pencil to it, and IF I do all the work including body/pant, send the engine/ trans out for rebuild, nut and bolt, do the suspension, rear, brakes, exhaust, tires, interior. I could buy a 68-70 real RR project, I would have to give about $5-6000 for an average complete project. I would have $25000-30000 in it and that is just my $$$ in it and what I had to pay the machine shop and such. II cold get that back out, but in reality that is what they can actually be bought for.
I could make the same build back n the 90's and make exactualy zero for my work!! Only difference was, back then, I was buying a better project, giving $1000 for it, and selling it for $8500. That same project could usually be sold for $2500 with a wash out of rat turds and some fresh points! ha
Nothing changes.
So I just work on what I like, must be why, silly me, has 2 four door early B bodies right now!???? Be lucky to break even when they go away!! ha again
i have purchased three of my Barracudas from just looking at pictures, however, it is always best to inspect a car in person and drive it if possible. i would not automatically "assume" this car is a "polished turd." there is no way to reach that conclusion just from the pictures. this car is much better shape than many other cars i've seen advertised for $5-$10k more in the asking price. have you seen some of the crazy prices people are asking for A-body mopars right now? this car in the shape it appears to be in at an "asking price" of $20k would very much be worth going to look at if you wanted a duster.
LOL! you are SO right SGBarracuda!! i've owned and run a body shop and still do my own work and paint and i would NEVER attempt to assess the condition of a car from just a picture! you MUST see a car in person to determine its actual condition. could this car have hidden rust and a lot of bondo? sure. but can you tell that from the pictures of the car? ABSOLUTELY NOT and anyone who thinks they can is simply NOT a "bodyman." LOL!
DionR
Well-Known Member
But can you not make an educated guess based on pictures? Lack of prep, bubbles under the paint, body contours looking off? Not saying you should be 100% convinced, but can't you get a feel for it?
Is it a rust bucket? Maybe not. But there is enough to say that some shortcuts were taken leaving me to expect that there is much more rust than what is visible. Rule I always hear was, if can you see the rust, then there is a fair amount more that you can't.
I think you have to take things as a whole, based on what you have available. And based on what is available, I have to say I kind of doubt this is a real 340 car.
Does that make it worth less than the asking price? No idea, that depends on the person willing to pay it. But if it was me and I wanted a real 340 Duster and was willing to live with and fix the issues, it would piss me off no end if I found out it was a VIN swapped 318 car, whether I could afford to build a clone for the same money or not.
My Scamp has been my introduction the world of Mopar. I've had it about two years, and lemme tell ya, I was happy as a pig in **** to when I first got it. I thought the deal I got was too good to be true. Two years and an engine rebuild later, in addition to a new front end, rebuilt trans, and countless little things, I'm realizing more and more that the guy I bought it from was just flipping it. The paint wasn't even cured when I bought it, sloppy masking lines everywhere, the trim wasn't even removed - he just masked and painted right over everything.
Just about every day I'm out working on the car, I notice another little shortcut that was taken. Yes, I paid too much for the car, but you know what? I'm totally fine with it. Because it got me into this lifestyle. I absolutely love the community, I love learning, I love overcoming challenges, and of course I love to drive it.
Would I willingly overpay for something knowing now what I didn't know then? No. But as mentioned before, if someone had that money to spend and was just dying to get their hands on a Duster that they didn't mind working on, I say go for it. A car's worth is subjective to the seller and to the buyer.
Just about every day I'm out working on the car, I notice another little shortcut that was taken. Yes, I paid too much for the car, but you know what? I'm totally fine with it. Because it got me into this lifestyle. I absolutely love the community, I love learning, I love overcoming challenges, and of course I love to drive it.
Would I willingly overpay for something knowing now what I didn't know then? No. But as mentioned before, if someone had that money to spend and was just dying to get their hands on a Duster that they didn't mind working on, I say go for it. A car's worth is subjective to the seller and to the buyer.
^^^ People want perfect and rarely will they pay for perfect, unless that car was send it to a high $ shop and the owner paid $60-90 an hour. All receipts in hand. Want all the trim and glass out, everything. Want a pro built drive train? Want to buy a "done" car for pennies on the dollar/ We all love bargains!!!! You better be willing to pay some $$$, most people hate selling and losing a lot of $ on their "hobby".
Righty Tighty ^^ said he did not get exactly what he thought he was getting, maybe he was shorted, maybe he expected more for his purchase $ that was maybe realistic, but I am glad to see he is happy and loving the hobby!
Definition: Fair market value. True for anything. What an item will sell for IF properly advertised for its highest and best use, for an adequate length of time. A willing and informed buyer and a knowledge and honest seller.
Righty Tighty ^^ said he did not get exactly what he thought he was getting, maybe he was shorted, maybe he expected more for his purchase $ that was maybe realistic, but I am glad to see he is happy and loving the hobby!
Definition: Fair market value. True for anything. What an item will sell for IF properly advertised for its highest and best use, for an adequate length of time. A willing and informed buyer and a knowledge and honest seller.
Nope, just a little cause and effect. Bubbles in the paint in the corners of the body, down low? Yeah that’s always rust. Always. And with rust, what you see is only a fraction of what’s actually there. That car needs metal work, 100%. How much metal work it needs is certainly a different question, but $20k for a car that needs quarter and fender patches and a repaint? Not my $20k.
I’m sorry, but the rust bubbles evident in the paint even in the low resolution pictures indicate there is absolutely hidden rust. It’s not even hidden, you can see several areas, down low, where there are bubbles. The seller even mentions them! Again, how much rust is a different question and one you’d have to see the car in person to answer. But just those crappy pictures tell me it still needs at least patches, and that means a repaint. And that means it’s not worth $20k. That’s before you even consider the other questionable stuff in the pictures. The poorly contoured right rear quarter either means there’s a ton of bondo, or something really strange is going on with the metal itself. Like maybe a pad patch or section? Either way, my money is on bondo and not a little. Yeah, you’d have to see it to be positive, but no matter what it’s not right, and that is plain to see.
If this was even a relatively clean, solid 340 4-speed car at $20k it would have sold fast, even needing the mechanical fixes that are evident in the pictures. The fact that it’s still making the rounds on eBay and marketplace after months says the people that have seen it have passed at that price. Which means, it’s no deal. And yeah, as a 340 4-speed car that means a lot.
SLOPAR72
Well-Known Member
In that condition? Bring 20k and you can get mine.... Numbers matching. It's the paint and what's hiding on this one. Strip the paint and someone is in for a disappointment and a good night of drinking at the local watering hole....
JW
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
Stripping a car down to bare metal, removing everything so there are no tape lines..generally "doing it right" is what most people do not want to do. One day Ill post pics of mine "before" (in primer on the road driving but yes, rust bubbling "down low" checK my avatar pic) "During' (stripped down to bare metal, metal work ,body work etc) and "after" (In paint when I get there,i am about 75 % of the way to the finish line and its been a few years) Thiis is why people ar e willing to pay "20 grand" to avoid the body/paint stage of restoring these cars.
-
