Cheap handeling upgrades for 67 cuda
Exactly.
Inspect everything first, more than likely you'll need to replace all the bushings, ball joints, pitman, idler arm, tie rod ends etc. But definitely check first! Also, look for some of the more common broken or cracked parts. Cracks at the steering box mount on the K frame are not uncommon. Neither are LCA pivot tubes that have broken free of the K frame. The frame around the UCA mounts is prone to rust damage, and UCA mounts have been known to crack as well. On a '67 you have the one year idler arm that isn't bracketed on both sides, so definitely look at that as well. Obviously lots of other stuff can be bent, rusty or otherwise damaged but those are the most common culprits beyond just worn out parts.
After that and confirming all your parts are from the same year car (ie, not mixed and matched as can happen on cars of this age) you can order a suspension rebuild kit like from PST. But if you do have a mix and match of later year parts you might have to build your own rebuild kit.
See how everything works and handles after that, and make sure you get a proper alignment (not factory!!!). If you have radial tires use the SKOSH chart, not the factory specs. For mostly factory parts I would use the "granny" specs, you won't do much better anyway. If you use offset UCA bushings like moog K7103, you can up the caster to +3.5° or so, but that's about all you'll get. Camber can stay between -.25° and -.5°.
After you've addressed that stuff you can see where you are, and make better decisions about larger torsion bars, shocks, sway bars and maybe a new or rebuilt steering box. In my opinion you won't get rid of the "floaty" feel until you're running 1" to 1.03" torsion bars and sway bars too. But that is just my opinion.
Exactly.
Inspect everything first, more than likely you'll need to replace all the bushings, ball joints, pitman, idler arm, tie rod ends etc. But definitely check first! Also, look for some of the more common broken or cracked parts. Cracks at the steering box mount on the K frame are not uncommon. Neither are LCA pivot tubes that have broken free of the K frame. The frame around the UCA mounts is prone to rust damage, and UCA mounts have been known to crack as well. On a '67 you have the one year idler arm that isn't bracketed on both sides, so definitely look at that as well. Obviously lots of other stuff can be bent, rusty or otherwise damaged but those are the most common culprits beyond just worn out parts.
After that and confirming all your parts are from the same year car (ie, not mixed and matched as can happen on cars of this age) you can order a suspension rebuild kit like from PST. But if you do have a mix and match of later year parts you might have to build your own rebuild kit.
See how everything works and handles after that, and make sure you get a proper alignment (not factory!!!). If you have radial tires use the SKOSH chart, not the factory specs. For mostly factory parts I would use the "granny" specs, you won't do much better anyway. If you use offset UCA bushings like moog K7103, you can up the caster to +3.5° or so, but that's about all you'll get. Camber can stay between -.25° and -.5°.
After you've addressed that stuff you can see where you are, and make better decisions about larger torsion bars, shocks, sway bars and maybe a new or rebuilt steering box. In my opinion you won't get rid of the "floaty" feel until you're running 1" to 1.03" torsion bars and sway bars too. But that is just my opinion.
