CURING POR 15

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CFD244

CFD244

"I LOST MY ID IN A FLOOD"
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Hi Folks

I've used Por 15 in the past. I do most of my work over the winter, and I have found that my shop becomes bone dry with the heater running. When I used the product last time, it took almost a week to cure, presumably from the dry conditions. Since the Por 15 needs moisture to cure, does anyone have any suggestions, gained from experience, on how to make this product set up? I was thinking about misting it with water to help it cure. What are your thoughts?

Thanks
 
Build a small table top sized greenhouse like structure in your garage and humidify it. Pot of hot water probably would do it.
 
I live in the south. It's always humid down here. I hate the stuff. I never could get it to cure right. On top of that, it was about as bad as anti seize for gettin into places you never intended for it to get. It's just a total mess to work with so I quit using it and went to oil based industrial Rustoleum. Just as good or better product and applies very neatly with a brush or spray. You caint beat it.
 
I haven’t had good experiences with it either, so I stopped using it. Its too pricey for what it is. In the future I’ll try other products. I do like the metal prep and the coating to prevent rust after stripping to metal though (forget the name of it). The best way to treat rust is to rid of all of it and best way to do that is dipping in an electrolysis tank of caustic solution. Removes all rust, paint, body filler and seam sealer. Costs $800- $1000 for a whole car.
 
Get some of this, much better product.
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Maybe run a humidifier.
Another vote against por-15. I have seen it peel off in sheets more than once and prep was not the issue.
 
Im guessing you have a space heater blowing scorched hot air? Like Dana67 sez, A cheap humidifier would be a pot of water (maybe on top of an oil sealed plug in portable radiator or stove).
Keep the water level up, as the heat atomizes the moisture into the air, the water level drops.
Also a cheapo plastic hygrometer will show you the moisture content in the air, anything between 30 and 50 is DRY!
 
I use black rust paint made by krylon. Spilled some brake fluid on it and it didnt lift.
 
Can't beat Krylon curing time. Hands down is the fastest.
 
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RustyRatRod said:
I live in the south. It's always humid down here. I hate the stuff. I never could get it to cure right. On top of that, it was about as bad as anti seize for gettin into places you never intended for it to get. It's just a total mess to work with so I quit using it and went to oil based industrial Rustoleum. Just as good or better product and applies very neatly with a brush or spray. You caint beat it.
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I assume that you changed your mind?

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CFD244 said:
I have found that my shop becomes bone dry with the heater running. Thanks
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Juz sayin but what you are claiming does not make sense

If you have a VENTED heater, the only affect it will have on humidity is whatever combustion air it draws in that infiltrates from OUTdoors. So indoor humidity will be affected by cold dry (if it is dry) air coming in from outdoors. When you heat a cold room (and there is "no" outdoor infiltration) relative humidity decreases with heat. But the "actual" total water content does not change

If you have an UNvented heater such as a torpedo or infra-red, that will ADD humidity because the products of combustion contain humidity--and lots of it

I don't know anything about POR-15 and humidity but if you really do need more, you could do something like a hotplate and a big pan of water and just heat/ boil it into the air
 
Getting ready to weld in a patch, and wanted to do the inside before covering it up (after I cut out and repair that corner with the small holes of course). Thought Por 15 was the best, but maybe rust paint?

IMG_4713.JPG
 
67Dart273 said:
Juz sayin but what you are claiming does not make sense

If you have a VENTED heater, the only affect it will have on humidity is whatever combustion air it draws in that infiltrates from OUTdoors. So indoor humidity will be affected by cold dry (if it is dry) air coming in from outdoors. When you heat a cold room (and there is "no" outdoor infiltration) relative humidity decreases with heat. But the "actual" total water content does not change

If you have an UNvented heater such as a torpedo or infra-red, that will ADD humidity because the products of combustion contain humidity--and lots of it

I don't know anything about POR-15 and humidity but if you really do need more, you could do something like a hotplate and a big pan of water and just heat/ boil it into the air
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The air up here is cold and dry. The ceiling hung propane furnace exhausts outside, but gets it's combustion air from inside. Since it is consuming inside air during the combustion process, it draws the dry cold air in from outside. Since warm air has the ability to hold more moisture, it pulls the moisture from everything in the room. That air gets used for combustion and is replaced by the dry air from outside. As the cycle progresses throughout the winter, it just keeps getting dryer. That's the way I see it anyways......and my hygrometer reads 10% RH.
 
I have DOM15 that I used on my enclosed trailer frame and I used some of it around the tank strap hangers on the Dart last week. Hard as a rock the next day... and I have a dehumidifier in my shop running 24/7 and the oil furnace set at 62F. Shop is way below 20% at all times in the Winter.
 
CFD244 said:
The air up here is cold and dry. The ceiling hung propane furnace exhausts outside, but gets it's combustion air from inside. Since it is consuming inside air during the combustion process, it draws the dry cold air in from outside. Since warm air has the ability to hold more moisture, it pulls the moisture from everything in the room. That air gets used for combustion and is replaced by the dry air from outside. As the cycle progresses throughout the winter, it just keeps getting dryer. That's the way I see it anyways......and my hygrometer reads 10% RH.
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You are correct and that is what I (tried to) "say" LOL. The way I see it the only alternative really, is to get or 'rig' a humidifier. Depending on how your heater is built you might even be able to rig somthing right in/ on the heater for humidifier.
 
67Dart273 said:
You are correct and that is what I (tried to) "say" LOL. The way I see it the only alternative really, is to get or 'rig' a humidifier. Depending on how your heater is built you might even be able to rig somthing right in/ on the heater for humidifier.
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One nice thing, I have a pretty big window when I take something down to bare metal.........I would never try that in the summer LOL. Thanks for the feedback.:)
 
CFD244 said:
One nice thing, I have a pretty big window when I take something down to bare metal.........I would never try that in the summer LOL. Thanks for the feedback.:)
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if you clean the rust off don't use por it need rust as a catalyst
 
I have had good success with POR 15. (But only have used in ideal summer conditions) I have tried their hi temp as a header paint. It does ok. (But headers will eventually cook anything.) On frame metal I found it may work too good. Having to sand/grind off because of a change can be a chore.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
Maybe run a humidifier.
Another vote against por-15. I have seen it peel off in sheets more than once and prep was not the issue.[/QUOTE
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CFD244 said:
Hi Folks

I've used Por 15 in the past. I do most of my work over the winter, and I have found that my shop becomes bone dry with the heater running. When I used the product last time, it took almost a week to cure, presumably from the dry conditions. Since the Por 15 needs moisture to cure, does anyone have any suggestions, gained from experience, on how to make this product set up? I was thinking about misting it with water to help it cure. What are your thoughts?

Thanks
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According to the POR15 web site, too much humidity can be a problem. I think I would hold off on misting it with water. Other than that I got nothing. I have not had a problem with it and really like it now that the learning curve has flattened for me.
 
CFD244 said:
It sure is.....My wife does it all the time!:lol::poke:
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I will admit, it went on well. It covered well. But that crap got EVERYWHERE. It's a total mess to deal with. Plus as post #17 eluded to, it did peel off. I followed the instructions to the letter. I put it on a frame on a chevy truck. Went back and blasted it back off and applied Rustoleum and it's still on there over ten years later. Sittin outside in the guy's driveway still disassembled. lol
 
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My brother did his entire floor and bottom of his challenger with it. Had to strip all of it when it started peeling.
 
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