Electrical Upgrade - Items to consider
The trick with high amp alternators in our cars is to wire the alternator to a central distribution lug located a short distance from the alternator. Fuse them properly, and power all your accessory load from there.
There is no reason to high amperage into the cabin of the car. I treat my interior cabin just like any other accessory. I also swapped over to led lighting in there, so there is not really any high amp items to feed there. Thus, a modified bulk head connection is more than adequate. Look up the Madd Electric site, study it and learn from it.
From the main distribution lug under the hood, feed all your remaining high amp circuits using relays and proper fuses. I prefer Marine Grade fuse blocks, fuses and wiring. It's generally much higher quality and the price is reasonable. It's Coast Guard approved after all.
Is your battery in the trunk? If so, 2 ga is inadequate. Also, I didn't see where you ran a 2ga cable from your alternator to a solid ground. Both cables should be the same size as the current flows through both. Same with the starter and any other circuits. Always use the same gauge cable for + & -.
I upgrade my alternator to a rewound 200 amp CS140 with dual bridge rectifiers. It can put out over 110 amps at a slow idle. No one has yet to even notice the change to that beast at car shows as it looks so similar to a stock Mopar alternator. It bolts right on with a simple bracket and a spacer for the lower mount. I happen to have an under alternator Sanden A/C pump mounted, so my belt path is different than most would use.
It's the idle amperage that Mopar and Denso alternator struggle to make decent power at. The do all right once the are above idle, but they can't pump out the amps at a low idle.
The stereo industry has a wide selection of high amp fuses & holders. The Marine fuse distribution blocks are very nice as well. I both crimp and solder ALL connections, wrap with tape and then heat shrink tubing. Use proper grommets to pass through and sheet metal, and buy high quality relays and wire/cabling. Welding cables make good automotive cabling. The very fine strand copper cables, tough sheathing and reasonable cost make them ideal for the automotive environment. Solder all ends on them too.
The trick with high amp alternators in our cars is to wire the alternator to a central distribution lug located a short distance from the alternator. Fuse them properly, and power all your accessory load from there.
There is no reason to high amperage into the cabin of the car. I treat my interior cabin just like any other accessory. I also swapped over to led lighting in there, so there is not really any high amp items to feed there. Thus, a modified bulk head connection is more than adequate. Look up the Madd Electric site, study it and learn from it.
From the main distribution lug under the hood, feed all your remaining high amp circuits using relays and proper fuses. I prefer Marine Grade fuse blocks, fuses and wiring. It's generally much higher quality and the price is reasonable. It's Coast Guard approved after all.
Is your battery in the trunk? If so, 2 ga is inadequate. Also, I didn't see where you ran a 2ga cable from your alternator to a solid ground. Both cables should be the same size as the current flows through both. Same with the starter and any other circuits. Always use the same gauge cable for + & -.
I upgrade my alternator to a rewound 200 amp CS140 with dual bridge rectifiers. It can put out over 110 amps at a slow idle. No one has yet to even notice the change to that beast at car shows as it looks so similar to a stock Mopar alternator. It bolts right on with a simple bracket and a spacer for the lower mount. I happen to have an under alternator Sanden A/C pump mounted, so my belt path is different than most would use.
It's the idle amperage that Mopar and Denso alternator struggle to make decent power at. The do all right once the are above idle, but they can't pump out the amps at a low idle.
The stereo industry has a wide selection of high amp fuses & holders. The Marine fuse distribution blocks are very nice as well. I both crimp and solder ALL connections, wrap with tape and then heat shrink tubing. Use proper grommets to pass through and sheet metal, and buy high quality relays and wire/cabling. Welding cables make good automotive cabling. The very fine strand copper cables, tough sheathing and reasonable cost make them ideal for the automotive environment. Solder all ends on them too.
