Electrical Upgrade - Items to consider

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jrcr_15

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Hope everyone is doing great. I am doing a few electrical upgrades on my car and wanted to get some suggestions... and of course do it right the first time.

What is new:

- 215 amp Powermaster alternator with internal regulator (8-58539)
- Upgraded charge wire coming off the alternator (2 AWG) and to the "battery"
- New wiring harness

For context, I have previously done the ampmeter delete and replaced it with a volt meter.

I plan to "bypass" the bulkhead with new harness and be done with that.

My question is with regards to the "splice" there the black and red wires meet behind the gauge cluster. I am thinking of using a connection like this to connect the 2 wires together and to run my accessories (4 ways, cig lighter) and key on power items (radio etc) to.

upload_2021-2-24_17-22-14.png


Good idea?

Also, what size "fusible link" would be recommended for my alternator? Can you recommend something?

Any information/tip would be appreciated

Thanks in advance
 
Look up rated fuse size on the net for low voltage (12v) and 2 gauge wire. That is your starting point for fuse

I know nothing about that particular connector. I would likely just bolt them together if the eyelets are in good shape, and tape, or cut off the terminals and either good quality butt/ crimp or solder/ heat shrink.
 
Yes indeed, what are you adding on that you need so many amps? More doesn’t always equal better.
Lots of goodies on top of everything stock:

- dual electric fuel pumps
- high flow electric water pump / with controller
- dual electric cooling fans
- Fitech EFI
- MSD ignition
- snow water-meth injection system
- Stereo with sub/amp... that i may or may not keep
 
With any stock wiring, 215 amps may help you burn the car to the ground.
 
What alternator are you using?
Currently it is a square back, 110amp, it just isn't cutting it. I can't run the car for extended periods without discharging the batteries, driving it at night it completely out of the question too.
 
Currently it is a square back, 110amp, it just isn't cutting it. I can't run the car for extended periods without discharging the batteries, driving it at night it completely out of the question too.

It's VERY possible that it's "not just the alternator." If I were you I'd do a load total. Take EVERYTHING that runs on such a cruise, and obtain current readings. Some you can look up, like the model of your fuel pumps, etc. Some you will have to measure. There exists large current shunts so you can read large value loads. You have have something wrong that is preventing the 110a from fully performing.

Even the "lowly" 110A unit is a LOT of amperage

Also check the battery and system running voltage. "One wire" setups are particularly fussy because the sensing is on the "wrong end" IE at the alternator output, and it simply goes downhill from there.
 
That's gotta be the cheesiest, shittiest, crappiest bullshittiest connector I've ever seen in my life. I think you're trying to set your car on fire.
 
That's gotta be the cheesiest, shittiest, crappiest bullshittiest connector I've ever seen in my life. I think you're trying to set your car on fire.
I take it you don't like it ? lol

Ohh, do you mean Post#1 or 14 ?
 
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That's gotta be the cheesiest, shittiest, crappiest bullshittiest connector I've ever seen in my life. I think you're trying to set your car on fire.
Yup, that is exactly what I am trying to do.

What would you recommend?
 
Hope everyone is doing great. I am doing a few electrical upgrades on my car and wanted to get some suggestions... and of course do it right the first time.

What is new:

- 215 amp Powermaster alternator with internal regulator (8-58539)
- Upgraded charge wire coming off the alternator (2 AWG) and to the "battery"
- New wiring harness

For context, I have previously done the ampmeter delete and replaced it with a volt meter.

I plan to "bypass" the bulkhead with new harness and be done with that.

My question is with regards to the "splice" there the black and red wires meet behind the gauge cluster. I am thinking of using a connection like this to connect the 2 wires together and to run my accessories (4 ways, cig lighter) and key on power items (radio etc) to.

View attachment 1715696814

Good idea?

Also, what size "fusible link" would be recommended for my alternator? Can you recommend something?

Any information/tip would be appreciated

Thanks in advance
 
Yup, that is exactly what I am trying to do.

What would you recommend?

Stupid as it sounds? I like the way the factory did it. I mean my GAWD it lasts 50 plus years. If it looks suspicious, just break it apart, clean it up re-solder it and shrink sleeve the hell out of it.
 
The trick with high amp alternators in our cars is to wire the alternator to a central distribution lug located a short distance from the alternator. Fuse them properly, and power all your accessory load from there.

There is no reason to high amperage into the cabin of the car. I treat my interior cabin just like any other accessory. I also swapped over to led lighting in there, so there is not really any high amp items to feed there. Thus, a modified bulk head connection is more than adequate. Look up the Madd Electric site, study it and learn from it.

From the main distribution lug under the hood, feed all your remaining high amp circuits using relays and proper fuses. I prefer Marine Grade fuse blocks, fuses and wiring. It's generally much higher quality and the price is reasonable. It's Coast Guard approved after all.

Is your battery in the trunk? If so, 2 ga is inadequate. Also, I didn't see where you ran a 2ga cable from your alternator to a solid ground. Both cables should be the same size as the current flows through both. Same with the starter and any other circuits. Always use the same gauge cable for + & -.

I upgrade my alternator to a rewound 200 amp CS140 with dual bridge rectifiers. It can put out over 110 amps at a slow idle. No one has yet to even notice the change to that beast at car shows as it looks so similar to a stock Mopar alternator. It bolts right on with a simple bracket and a spacer for the lower mount. I happen to have an under alternator Sanden A/C pump mounted, so my belt path is different than most would use.

It's the idle amperage that Mopar and Denso alternator struggle to make decent power at. The do all right once the are above idle, but they can't pump out the amps at a low idle.

The stereo industry has a wide selection of high amp fuses & holders. The Marine fuse distribution blocks are very nice as well. I both crimp and solder ALL connections, wrap with tape and then heat shrink tubing. Use proper grommets to pass through and sheet metal, and buy high quality relays and wire/cabling. Welding cables make good automotive cabling. The very fine strand copper cables, tough sheathing and reasonable cost make them ideal for the automotive environment. Solder all ends on them too.

IMG_2602.JPG
 
The trick with high amp alternators in our cars is to wire the alternator to a central distribution lug located a short distance from the alternator. Fuse them properly, and power all your accessory load from there.

I did this so my sense wire on my Denso conversion isn't a;ways overcharging my battery.

20200924_133636[1] - Copy_LI.jpg
 
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