74 power wagon dream truck...

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Well of course! Only a fool would take a bet they couldn't win...

My head is in machine shop jail. The dizzy, carb, and trans still need rebuilt too. Then the rest needs to go back in the truck. So you're hardly in mortal danger of buying cheeseburgers...
 
Sweet truck ! I had a Green 74 SWB 4x4 for 20 yrs. Adventurer pkg ... dropped a 440 in it . Too much power ! Had to use 4wd if it rained ...lol
Dropped that motor in my 65 Coronet 500 and ran 12s.
74s are the best years . Unmarried NP205s and manual locking hubs .
There is a trick to steady the transfer case using a long section of ready rod if you have any vibration .
 
Very nice. I had a 74 WarWagon with locked Dana 60 35 spline 1 Tons. 340 with a 435 4 speed, Divorced 205 T Case with a Warlock Stepside bed.
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74s are the best years . Unmarried NP205s and manual locking hubs .
There is a trick to steady the transfer case using a long section of ready rod if you have any vibration .
Is this what you are talking about? This was on my truck, I’d like to refine it with some urethane bushings, a nice rod with a heim joint. Dunno yet.
 
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Is this what you are talking about? This was on my truck, I’d like to refine it with some urethane bushings, a nice rod with a heim joint. Dunno yet.
The guy that I got my truck from had the transmission out because of the reverse band. He forgot to give me that short driveline. He showed me a picture of it and I was wondering which way it went and that picture solved my mystery. I copied those pictures so later on I can text him and see if he had that stabilizing rod as well.. thank you!!..
 
Well I looked at the doors again and keep finding more and more wrong.. I passed on them for the time being... I have another iron in the fire on that front..
We'll see...
 
Ok so I get the frame powder coated...
I empty the axles and fill them back up with new goodies...
Now... What springs and hardware????..
2" lift springs - 4" - 6 - 8... ???
Some kits have a little extra in front..
Definitely thinking 3" body lift (want to see that fancy powder coated frame..)
 
I was thinking 10.5*33*16..???..
Yes I'll be putting the sled deck on, but need be I can make more ramp...
Might also look at p-metric sizes, more reasonable priced.
These are 33's on 16" rims on my Willys.
a>
 
Darn, anyways the tires are skinner than a 10.5 but the cost is alot less.
I think they are more like 9.5" wide.
 
For a 33" tire I'd use no more than 4" lift. You could likely get away with a 3" body lift alone. On the truck I am rebuilding with my son I chose to omit the body lift I used to have on it and stick with the 4" lift springs. I never liked the body lift. It bolts on with real long bolts through spacers. May not be the best in a roll over.
I will be using 35x12.5-17 tires. I have used 35s with this suspension set up before.
From what I have learned about all this over the years, if you definitely want a body lift, do about a 2" spring lift and a 2" body lift. Otherwise do a 4" spring lift and you will fit the 33s no problem!
For the back on the truck I am currently doing, I did a rear shackle flip and some 1/2 ton stock springs. This should bring me to about 4" lift in the rear. I won't be hauling much with this deal so the shackle flip is good for me. Since you will be hauling, I don't think the shackle flip would be the thing for you. If you can find matching rear lift springs then that's good, luckily you can adjust your rear height between spring height and block height. Just my opinion but I'd never go more than stock block height or stack blocks. Seems like bad JUJUto me!
Cley
 
For a 33" tire I'd use no more than 4" lift. You could likely get away with a 3" body lift alone. On the truck I am rebuilding with my son I chose to omit the body lift I used to have on it and stick with the 4" lift springs. I never liked the body lift. It bolts on with real long bolts through spacers. May not be the best in a roll over.
I will be using 35x12.5-17 tires. I have used 35s with this suspension set up before.
From what I have learned about all this over the years, if you definitely want a body lift, do about a 2" spring lift and a 2" body lift. Otherwise do a 4" spring lift and you will fit the 33s no problem!
For the back on the truck I am currently doing, I did a rear shackle flip and some 1/2 ton stock springs. This should bring me to about 4" lift in the rear. I won't be hauling much with this deal so the shackle flip is good for me. Since you will be hauling, I don't think the shackle flip would be the thing for you. If you can find matching rear lift springs then that's good, luckily you can adjust your rear height between spring height and block height. Just my opinion but I'd never go more than stock block height or stack blocks. Seems like bad JUJUto me!
Cley
Honestly I'm just kind of all over the map on where to go with it....
But you have provided some good guidance.. thank you!!..
 
Got in a couple hours of work on the truck after work and before supper...
Took a picture of the broken reverse band...
Pictures of the carburetor that I can't find any numbers on? I'd like to know what it is so I can figure out what I want to charge to sell it...
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About loosing my marbles trying to find a serial number on this carburetor...
I'm pretty convinced it's the 600 though..
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