Oil system myths

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Thought I had the cover too in my photos, have take another pic tonite. I drilled and taped the cover for the pickup tube attaching from the 3.0 engine (1” diameter pipe) and the bell bottom end. I’ll remove the filter so to ease up restrictions from the pump thru the system then turn down the pressure to push the oil which frees up HP. You don’t need a filter for 1/4 mile at a time.
828C7542-9CEA-42EF-965F-8599F0815F9B.jpeg
 
Now I use the one piece Magnum gasket along with the rear sump stock pan. Both 340 caps side by side. I’ll be running D E Or F/ stock auto depending on weight in a 71 Duster
 
Plugging the drilled hole to filter and will use the treaded hole to the accusump
 
You can search AJ's Opinion and find all my stuff, try this;

https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/ajs-opinion-the-shape-of-the-earth.480916/

HYUP, link works
Real funny when all large ‘bodies’ in this universe are round. Even a flat object would eventually become round because of the absence of gravity in space. Read this book it should curl your toes from what you think and believe.
One thing I like in it, when Moses came off the mountain with the Ten Commandments, what language was it written in? Get back to me I’ll wait.
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Real funny when all large ‘bodies’ in this universe are round. Even a flat object would eventually become round because of the absence of gravity in space. Read this book it should curl your toes from what you think and believe.
One thing I like in it, when Moses came off the mountain with the Ten Commandments, what language was it written in? Get back to me I’ll wait.View attachment 1715699236
reply moved to
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopa...he-shape-of-the-earth.480916/#post-1973369592
 
Maybe on a race engine it would be a different story, but, has anyone had a good quality double roller chain assembly fail because of lack of lubrication? I've pulled engines apart with 300k on them with the stock chain. Yeah, it was real loose, but, still functional, not blue from heat, and not about to fail. The setup with the silent cam gear (the ones with plastic coated teeth) will fail for sure, but, mainly from the plastic cracking due to age.

Double rollers sell but most applications only need a oem style silent chain.
 
As someone whose been high enough in the air to see the curvature of the Earth with no help from fancy camera lenses, the Earth is round as can be.
 
A couple of my thoughts.

1.The bypass inside the small block Mopar oil pump and the big block oil pump does not release the excess oil pressure back into the pan. The bypass opens up, that drops the pressure of the oil circulating through the pump, until that pressure drops to where the bypass closes back up and continues its job of monitoring the pressure.

2. You can run a high-volume, you can run a standard pump, you can run an extra extra high volume pump and it won't make much difference if you do not increase the size of the pickup tube. You are pulling that oil through a 3/8 npt hole.

3. The bypass spring in a stock oil pump and a high-volume oil pump are the same spring.

4. We should not forget that one of the reasons for the oil leaks inside the motor is to pull heat away from the rotating and moving parts.
 
I don't agree on #2 or #3.

#2 - if you suck harder on the same size straw, it will pull more delicious (and less white) Coca-Cola into your mouth. So if you suck harder on a 3/8" NPT hole, you'll pull more delicious oil.

#3 - the HV pump will typically (not always) come with a 70PSI spring. The standard pump, 55PSI.
 
I don't agree on #2 or #3.

#2 - if you suck harder on the same size straw, it will pull more delicious (and less white) Coca-Cola into your mouth. So if you suck harder on a 3/8" NPT hole, you'll pull more delicious oil. And hate those tiny straws!

#3 - the HV pump will typically (not always) come with a 70PSI spring. The standard pump, 55PSI.
Direct Connection said use the red Hemi spring instead of the black, in the regular pump for more pressure (might have colors backward)
 
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1.The bypass inside the small block Mopar oil pump and the big block oil pump does not release the excess oil pressure back into the pan. The bypass opens up, that drops the pressure of the oil circulating through the pump, until that pressure drops to where the bypass closes back up and continues its job of monitoring the pressure....

The bypass will always be 'partly' open anytime the pump is running at an RPM where the pressure produced by the pump is higher than the bypass pressure. It doesn't open and then close. The higher the rpm, the more oil will be running through the bypass.
The more oil going through the bypass, the more energy being wasted pumping oil that's not getting into the engine - only being heated and maybe frothed.
 
The bypass will always be 'partly' open anytime the pump is running at an RPM where the pressure produced by the pump is higher than the bypass pressure. It doesn't open and then close. The higher the rpm, the more oil will be running through the bypass.
The more oil going through the bypass, the more energy being wasted pumping oil that's not getting into the engine - only being heated and maybe frothed.
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Pressure not rpm will determine when the bypass will move to open or close itself.
The bypass will not open until the set pressure is exceeded. It will close once the pressure drops below the set pressure point no matter what the rpm is.
 
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Pressure not rpm will determine when the bypass will move to open or close itself.
The bypass will not open until the set pressure is exceeded. It will close once the pressure drops below the set pressure point no matter what the rpm is.

Correct, but pressure rises with RPM on a positive displacement pump. The bypass does close once the pressure drops, but so long as the pump is spinning fast enough to produce more pressure than the bypass is set for, the bypass will remain open. The further rpm/pressure increases after hitting the bypass stage, the more oil will flow through the bypass.
 
Correct, but pressure rises with RPM on a positive displacement pump. The bypass does close once the pressure drops, but so long as the pump is spinning fast enough to produce more pressure than the bypass is set for, the bypass will remain open. The further rpm/pressure increases after hitting the bypass stage, the more oil will flow through the bypass.
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Another thing to consider is the thickness of the oil and the temperature.
There comes a point in time where you might want to put a higher pressure bypass spring in the pump also.
But until you enlarge the suction side of the pump it won't make much difference.
 
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Another thing to consider is the thickness of the oil and the temperature.
There comes a point in time where you might want to put a higher pressure bypass spring in the pump also.
But until you enlarge the suction side of the pump it won't make much difference.

100% agree. Pressure vs rpm will change depending on multiple factors. The operating point where the bypass even comes into play will also change because of the same.

Pickup design is also dependent on application. A larger pickup will take more revolutions of the pump before it primes vs a smaller one. But a small one will limit oil delivery at higher revs, the larger one won't. The difference isn't huge, but could matter if the owner wants to restart their engine dozens of times a day for years and years..

However, the drawback for under-delivering oil is a dead engine. The drawback of too much is a slight HP loss due to over-pumping, and maybe some windage of the oil (very dependent on actual oil used, volume of returned oil, etc).
 
I don't agree on #2 or #3.

#2 - if you suck harder on the same size straw, it will pull more delicious (and less white) Coca-Cola into your mouth. So if you suck harder on a 3/8" NPT hole, you'll pull more delicious oil.

#3 - the HV pump will typically (not always) come with a 70PSI spring. The standard pump, 55PSI.


#2 - really important if you still run some 50 grade oil. Or you have the RPM up. Or both.

The number 1 biggest increase in gerotor oil pump performance is a bigger inlet. Always. That and a pan with more than 4 quarts in it.

You can’t get the pickup tube too big. We are lucky today because I can run a 0w-20 oil in my junk and make as much power as I want and not have issues. That 20 goes up the pipe much easier than a 40 or 50 or even a decent 30 grade oil.

That does take some load off the pick up. You can only get the gerotor to pull X amount of depression. You can’t necessarily make the pump “suck” harder on the inlet.
 
100% agree. Pressure vs rpm will change depending on multiple factors. The operating point where the bypass even comes into play will also change because of the same.

Pickup design is also dependent on application. A larger pickup will take more revolutions of the pump before it primes vs a smaller one. But a small one will limit oil delivery at higher revs, the larger one won't. The difference isn't huge, but could matter if the owner wants to restart their engine dozens of times a day for years and years..

However, the drawback for under-delivering oil is a dead engine. The drawback of too much is a slight HP loss due to over-pumping, and maybe some windage of the oil (very dependent on actual oil used, volume of returned oil, etc).


The ability of the pump to pull a depression on the pick up tube is controlled by RPM and gerotor sizing. I have run a standard volume pump with a 1 inch pickup tube and ever found a priming issue.
 
The ability of the pump to pull a depression on the pick up tube is controlled by RPM and gerotor sizing. I have run a standard volume pump with a 1 inch pickup tube and ever found a priming issue.

Good to know. I'm speaking more generally as something to consider since it will take more revolutions of the pump to clear any airspace in the pickup when the pickup tube is enlarged - enough to matter? Not likely outside of an OEM type application that requires maximum longevity.
 
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