Early A Body Front Driveshaft Nuts (challenging?)

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dibbons

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This driveshaft on the '65 Formula S uses a ball & trunnion conversion. These four front nuts always fight me all the way off and all the way on again. Must be secret jam nuts? I had a problem today during installation for lack of room to fit an open end 9/16" wrench. Maybe I should not have affixed the rear u-joint first like I did. I was able to slip the wrench on three nuts (just barely) but it was weird how on a fourth it was near impossible.

Must be the angle of the joint--since I added a full leaf to to rear suspension (both sides) the vehicle sits higher (too high?). And after installing the motor this week, I find the tail shaft of the 904 is slanted slightly toward the passenger side. I tried prying the torqueflite over to more center, but it found its "own" center again anyway.

And that grease fitting probably won't accommodate an average grease gun hose either. Isn't there some kind of needle that is used in cases of limited access like that? I've never used one.

I guess the nuts are all the way on? All of 'em seem to finally stop turning about the same after the threads just made a complete entry.

driveshaft ujoint 3.JPG


driveshaft front ujoint 2.JPG


driveshaft front ujoint 1.JPG
 
Yes, I would bolt the front on first then the rear. It will allow you to move the driveshaft so the knuckles aren't in the way.
 
They are called "center-lock" nuts.
A few of the middle threads are distorted to cause a locking effect.
OEM motor mount nuts are the same.
You will find an embossed mark on 3 of the six sides of the nut.
I have re-used them often, no issues.

McMaster-Carr
 
thinwall deep socket with the shaft cocked away from you, then attach the diff end. 4X4 use the same type of 4 bolt flanges.
 
Gosh, such impatience. I just use a good quality open end wrench.
 
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