SLT-6 is 0.060 Over - Runs Hot...Why?????

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Two comments.

[1] I know from experience that blocks that sit unused for years develop rust in the water jackets, sometimes like grains of rice. They will quickly block the rad tubes. There is no way of getting ALL of it out, no matter how many flushes/cleans you do.
This debris has probably blocked the rad, which will need rodding out. Here in Oz we can buy a filter that goes in the upper rad hose & stops it blocking the rad. It collects the debris, which can be removed. Gradually, over time, all of the debris will be removed by the filter & the filter can be removed, if desired.

[2] I would use a 180 stat. The 180 rating means it opens at 180 & may not be fully open for another 20-30*.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
This needs a rethink and is unrelated to his overheating issue.


I never change multiple things at a time when trying to isolate the cause.

The timing, that's something that strikes me. "-5 at idle and dwell of 43"...So What's the power timing?
OP , set the total timing to 32-34 degrees@full advance and or +5 btdc to +10 btdc @idle then test drive it.

And make sure the exhaust heat stove flapper is not stuck closed!
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Perhaps, but it doesn't need rethinking for ME. I've never used a 160 in anything and don't plan to.
 
Bewy said:
The 180 rating means it opens at 180 & may not be fully open for another 20-30*.
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Yep, that is what I was taught.That is the temperature that the thermostat "begins" to open.
 
Bewy said:
Two comments.

[1] I know from experience that blocks that sit unused for years develop rust in the water jackets, sometimes like grains of rice. They will quickly block the rad tubes. There is no way of getting ALL of it out, no matter how many flushes/cleans you do.
This debris has probably blocked the rad, which will need rodding out. Here in Oz we can buy a filter that goes in the upper rad hose & stops it blocking the rad. It collects the debris, which can be removed. Gradually, over time, all of the debris will be removed by the filter & the filter can be removed, if desired.

[2] I would use a 180 stat. The 180 rating means it opens at 180 & may not be fully open for another 20-30*.
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Right! It also means that the thermostat still has a chance at cycling. A 160 once open, will never close. They ARE designed to cycle. Sometimes people forget that.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Perhaps, but it doesn't need rethinking for ME. I've never used a 160 in anything and don't plan to.
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Race cars.
Octane marginal builds.
Really doesn't matter, because ...the thermostat does not necessarily set the running temperature of an engine. You can trick it with bigger rad cores, fans, and it might never fully open driving around town.
Most engines that have a 180-195 will peak heat saturate higher before full opening, but ultimately will be the same operating temp under power/wot.
The rating means 'fully opened by...'
Not 'begins to open at...' therefore a 180 stat will have coolant flowing through before 180 degrees...and as low as 150.
I will also put out there that when the flow is shut off... closed thermostat...the water pump gives more parasitic drag/loss and cavitation as opposed to an open stat where there is no restriction.

Does he need a 160? I don't think so, but I dont what core he has, fan blade n size, shroud or not..etc..
 
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Sigh. The number on the stat is is it's opening temp, NOT the fully open temp [ post #30 ]. The stat will require another 20-30* above it's stamped rating to be fully open. If a 180 stat has coolant flowing through it at 150....it means that the stat is faulty.
 
Bewy said:
Sigh. The number on the stat is is it's opening temp, NOT the fully open temp [ post #30 ]. The stat will require another 20-30* above it's stamped rating to be fully open. If a 180 stat has coolant flowing through it at 150....it means that the stat is faulty.
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No need to "sigh" like you think some of us are stupid and you're the only one that knows it all. That is a bit arrogant. I know how they work.
 
A thermostat's rating basically sets the minimum temp of a fully warmed motor, not the max. If a motor has an overheating problem, a 160 degree thermostat won't keep the motor from warming up to 250-300 degrees.

I lean toward the radiator being clogged. Either from block internal rust getting into it as suggested above, or - what I've experienced - a radiator that sits very long with the coolant drained, but not flushed with fresh water, will clog up. I'm not sure how, and I was skeptical when someone told me this, but it happened to me twice - in both cases, the car would be fine around town and for short drives, but get out on the road, and after an hour the temp would start climbing, to 230 or more. In each case, boiling the radiator out solved the problem.
 
Had a problem close to yours 40 year old radiator that looks good down the neck but was absolutely clogged up
 
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