Slant six builders...Lets talk Cams

my 819 just showed back up from Oregon Cams. Other than shipping costs pricing wasn't too terrible. Cost me $42 and 2 weeks, for the PO to get it out there (2x what I expected/ in cost AND time, both) $45 for UPS to get the cam + 12 O/S valves and a set of new solid lifters to show back up at my door. Damn!!!
Lifters in an unidentified white box..... wish I had a brand on them.

the sheet that came with shows alot more specs than I would have thought. most of them make no sense to me.

Since I aint great with computer stuff (It would be easier to scan the sheet in instead of copying it manually for sure) here goes...
see if you guys can make sense of things I can't...
Lobe Separation 110 Lobe Center Line Int 106 Exhaust 114
how can lobe centerline and Lobe Separation "not" be the same as each other? 1st thing that doesn't make sense.
Cam lobe Lift .291 on both intake and exhaust.
Advertised Duration (.012 TR) HUH? left blank.
Duration at 0.002 318 both Intake and Exhaust
at 0.006 289 both
at 0.012 ("0.012" "penciled in") 264 both
at 0.020 248
at 0.026" 240
at 0.050 219
at 0.100 187
at .200 125

Valve Clearance 0.012" both (isn't that a bit "light," on the exhaust side?)
Checking tappet Dia 0.904" Tappet type Mech Flat
Cam timing @0.050" tappet rise OPEN CLOSE
INTAKE 4* BTDC 36* ABDC
EXHAUST 44* BBDC -5* ATDC
(penciled in) -1* [email protected]"

theroetical valve lift (with .000" lash) with specific Rocker Ratio .436" on both valves....so that would mean really 0.424" lift when the valve clearance is figured in?

when I looked at Oregon's chart (either here or in the "346" cam thread) the line on no cam, gave this much info.
so when I degree it in, would I go for the 106 figure or the 110 figure? (higher up in this post)
Did I mess up with this choice of cam for my intended usage? There is a chance that I might put this motor into my Volare, if it don't work out in the truck, though my orig plan for the Volare, was a V8 swap..... orig slant 6 car, with 2.71 gear/ ran surprisingly well with the original (now long gone) engine, that engine was definitely "enough" to get it down the road.

I chose this cam for the truck engine, after talking both on-forum and in PMs to a couple of different guys on the /6 site that have this cam in their /6 in a truck.
I need to replace my converter anyway, (ring gear issue) when the engine goes in. would stock stall, work out OK with this cam? It still has the original converter in it, this is a 727 lockup. Wont know til I get it out, if it is stock "hi-stall" or "lo-stall" in there now. how much difference is there between hi and lo stall?
Ive detailed what I want out of this build more than once.
and as I have said before, looking at cam numbers makes my head spin, very confusing to me. And that after a bad experience on "too big" of a cam on my 1st build years ago (a 318 in a Cordoba OK, go ahead, laugh) back in the 80s has made me "chicken out" on cams, on subsequent builds......

I would not worry about it, this is not the wrong cam for what you want to. My money is on if you drove this and the 2106 back to back you would have a hard time telling the difference. Like someone said all the cams that have been talked about here are very close in the simulation. Is there a theoretically better cam for what you are doing, by a tiny margin maybe. Will it be very noticeable in the real world, doubt it. I am not sure I am understanding the torque converter question... At higher stall speed converter just means it slips more so it is less efficient.. If you are doing hole shots with the truck and want it to launch at the peak torque point it would be useful, for just driving around I would stick with the stock TC.