LA 360 Engine refresh?

Your intake choice will be heavily dependent on your choice of heads and valve size. @yellow rose and a few others did a really good thread about port shape and flow but I can't seem to find it now. Most street builds, especially milder ones, will benefit from a dual plane design, although the SP manifolds tend to get with the picture much better "upstairs". As you mention, in '72 the J heads changed over to 1.88 intakes, although these can be fitted with 2.02 intakes fairly easily. I've been told the X-heads flow better on the bench due to slightly different port shapes, but it's not likely you'll notice much on a street motor. Yes, compression dropped and the newer engines were outfitted with dish-top pistons, which did a bunch to de-rate the HP rating...however, IIRC there was something in the way HP was rated that changed in 1971 as well so it might be less of a drop than meets the eye.
Also, with the externally balanced crank and damper, the timing marks on the timing cover were shifted to the left (driver's side) from the right side, also water pump and radiator were different as a result. A flywheel from a forged crank will not bolt up to a cast crank, if you're running a manual trans.
You really only need to degree a cam if you are changing it, for the most part. Certainly swapping carbs and manifolds won't require it.
WRT carbs; everyone has their favorite. I prefer the Holley double pumpers because they are darn near idiot proof and lend very easily to tuning. My last build was really finicky on start up; needed plenty of choke, but after lighting off would run richer than hell unless it was wide open so a manual choke was the easiest and best solution. Fire it up and then open the choke. I suppose an electric choke would be fine if your motor likes it?