Help with stock EFI

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Thanks for the info. That is the kind of info I was looking for when I started the thread. Am I safe in assuming that I can eliminate any of the white marked areas that deal with AC since I won’t have AC in the car?
Absolutely. Sorry I should have pointed that out, I kept ac and use the 46re. You won’t need that stuff. Tomorrow when I get to my shop I’ll snap some pics of the harness I made and I use on the test stand.
 
Absolutely. Sorry I should have pointed that out, I kept ac and use the 46re. You won’t need that stuff. Tomorrow when I get to my shop I’ll snap some pics of the harness I made and I use on the test stand.
Awesome, thanks!
 
On another note, if you do not use the 46re, you will have to get a manual trans ecu or have your current ecu flashed to remove all of the trans programming stuff. Both of which are possible but I had a hard time finding a manual trans ecu when I looked for one.
 
On another note, if you do not use the 46re, you will have to get a manual trans ecu or have your current ecu flashed to remove all of the trans programming stuff. Both of which are possible but I had a hard time finding a manual trans ecu when I looked for one.
My nephew has a private dodge truck bone yard and he has a truck that is the same year that had a manual transmission that i plan to grab the computer from. He also has the complete 93 dodge truck that I’m getting the transmission from. Would I be better off taking the computer from the 93? Am I still fine using the wiring harness from the automatic truck?
 
No 93 and 2000 will have different harness’. You are making this hard on yourself. If he has a boneyard just grab a 46re and plug everything in.
 
No 93 and 2000 will have different harness’. You are making this hard on yourself. If he has a boneyard just grab a 46re and plug everything in.
I don’t think he has a 46re, at least not in a 2wd
 
I disagree with you on the RE. I would stay hydraulic. Way easier and cheaper to deal with "with trouble" and if you decide to go with manual valve
 
I disagree with you on the RE. I would stay hydraulic. Way easier and cheaper to deal with "with trouble" and if you decide to go with manual valve
Not if you’re using an obd2 ecu. If I was doing it and I had to have a 46rh then I would use an obd1 ecu and harness. It will be easier than changing sensors and modifying an obd2 set up to run with the 46rh.
 
I don’t think he has a 46re, at least not in a 2wd
I found one at pick a part and paid like $150 bucks for it on a half price Saturday. They’re all over the junkyards here.
 
Not if you’re using an obd2 ecu. If I was doing it and I had to have a 46rh then I would use an obd1 ecu and harness. It will be easier than changing sensors and modifying an obd2 set up to run with the 46rh.
Ok, so the truck I’m taking the transmission out of is a 93 2wd. Are you saying I would be better off using the existing and harness out of it since I’m using the 46rh transmission? If I do that, will the harness hook up to all the sensors on my 1999 360? Other thing I need to find out is what engine is in the 93. It might be a 318 which I’m guessing wouldn’t work.
 
Not if you’re using an obd2 ecu. If I was doing it and I had to have a 46rh then I would use an obd1 ecu and harness. It will be easier than changing sensors and modifying an obd2 set up to run with the 46rh.
Why do you need to modify the obd2 besides either a stick computer or reflashing the automatic one?
 
Why do you need to modify the obd2 besides either a stick computer or reflashing the automatic one?
There are a few sensors that are not plug and play and must be swapped and re pinned. All of the wiring for the trans is different, as well as deleting all of the auto trans controls or using a manual ecu. Also the fuel systems between the two are different, including the injectors and fuel rails/regulator. Not entirely un doable but imo not worth the hassle. Especially if you have access to a buddy’s junkyard. Find a complete 2wd truck, and use everything from it. Engine, harness, pdc, ecu, and trans. If you do that it’s seriously like a 4 wire deal.
 
Ok, so the truck I’m taking the transmission out of is a 93 2wd. Are you saying I would be better off using the existing and harness out of it since I’m using the 46rh transmission? If I do that, will the harness hook up to all the sensors on my 1999 360? Other thing I need to find out is what engine is in the 93. It might be a 318 which I’m guessing wouldn’t work.
Lots of people have used the 5.2 and are happy with it in an A body. They run pretty hard and are great little engines. Do a search here.
Basically what I am advising is find a complete 2wd truck, regardless of if it’s obd1 or obd2 and use everything from it. It will make the swap simple require very little to make it run in an a body. When swapping transmissions, flashing ecu’s, de pinning and changing sensors all between obd1 and 2 it will require time and lots of reading in factory service manuals to get it all correct. You’re on a timeline so my advice is to push the easy button.
 
Lots of people have used the 5.2 and are happy with it in an A body. They run pretty hard and are great little engines. Do a search here.
Basically what I am advising is find a complete 2wd truck, regardless of if it’s obd1 or obd2 and use everything from it. It will make the swap simple require very little to make it run in an a body. When swapping transmissions, flashing ecu’s, de pinning and changing sensors all between obd1 and 2 it will require time and lots of reading in factory service manuals to get it all correct. You’re on a timeline so my advice is to push the easy button.
I’m sure that would have been the easiest, but he really wants the 360. I’ve already got the engine pulled and cleaned up ready to paint once the oil pan arrives. I’ve got the harness and ecu from the donor truck. I’ll go back and get the pcm and the rest of the harness to the one plug. The 46rh is in good shape and free so budget wise I want to give it a shot.
The question I have is, what if I use the 99 ecu with the 46rh without reflashing it or anything? Does the ecu have to detect the transmission for the engine to run, or will it run fine but just have error codes that I will never know about unless I hook up a scanner to the obd?
 
Yes it will work and some have had success going this route. Maybe someone will chime in that did it that way. They key is to get the fuel pump in the tank to keep it cool. If you have room in the trunk, a ebay fuel cell is affordable and you can simply cut a hole in top for your stock pump, vent it, etc and use the wiring and hose you have from the donor and you are done. I would have done it this way but my trunk would not allow for it.
Not necessarily. Ford trucks and MBZ used external inline pumps. Ford strapped it to a frame rail. MBZ hung it in a vibration insulated scrodum next to the fuel tank, the bigger motors got 2 in series. These Walbro pumps can be had for under $40 online. You will need a return line.
 
I’m sure that would have been the easiest, but he really wants the 360. I’ve already got the engine pulled and cleaned up ready to paint once the oil pan arrives. I’ve got the harness and ecu from the donor truck. I’ll go back and get the pcm and the rest of the harness to the one plug. The 46rh is in good shape and free so budget wise I want to give it a shot.
The question I have is, what if I use the 99 ecu with the 46rh without reflashing it or anything? Does the ecu have to detect the transmission for the engine to run, or will it run fine but just have error codes that I will never know about unless I hook up a scanner to the obd?
IIRC the trans needs to send the computer data for the timing and other stuff. I think there was work on a stand alone trans controller with dummy loads to the PCM. How are you gonna fit that trans in the car? I didnt catch what it was going in but the trans tunnel on an A is pencil thin where the output shaft is.
 
I’m sure that would have been the easiest, but he really wants the 360. I’ve already got the engine pulled and cleaned up ready to paint once the oil pan arrives. I’ve got the harness and ecu from the donor truck. I’ll go back and get the pcm and the rest of the harness to the one plug. The 46rh is in good shape and free so budget wise I want to give it a shot.
The question I have is, what if I use the 99 ecu with the 46rh without reflashing it or anything? Does the ecu have to detect the transmission for the engine to run, or will it run fine but just have error codes that I will never know about unless I hook up a scanner to the obd?
I can’t really answer your question sorry. But at the very least the Speedo won’t work and there may be some weird shifting problems with no speed signal. And it will throw codes and possibly trigger limp mode. Those are just my thoughts on possible problems. None of that is definitive.
 
Correction. The 46rh should shift just fine with the adjustable Hobbs switch style setup. It won’t care what the engine is doing. But the ecu may do what I said above because it’s not talking to the trans.
 
I bought an ECM from Solo PCM's in Florida for a 2000 Dodge truck without security key and a manual trans, and bought a Hotrod wiring harness from Hotwire Auto. It only took 4 wires to hook up, and was plug and play.

I used a surge tank fuel set-up and a stock tank. It performs flawlessly with no air intrusion even when down to the last gallon on a road course.

I reflashed the engine tune with a handheld SCT Tuner and a custom tune from Mike at Performance Injection Equipment. It took 3 tunes to accurately dial it in using my wideband feedback, but he nailed it. Easy guy to work with.

https://www.performanceinjectionequipment.com/

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Where did you get the surge tank fuel set up?
 
The OBD2 Magnum fuel injection system will operate the engine just fine in stock configuration without the transmission plugged in. The speed density system uses manifold pressure (MAP sensor) and throttle position (TPS sensor) along with how fast the engine speed is increasing based on crank shaft position sensor rate of change, or how quickly it is accelerating. It also uses coolant temp and intake air temp so you need to keep those sensors.

Further, the RE transmissions are not fully electronic anyways. It is a weird electronic governor system that the PCM uses to basically manipulate the governor pressure to cause the transmission to hydraulically shift when conditions are right.

If you have an OBD2 PCM identified easily by three connectors, like the one the OP is getting, and you plan to get it recalibrated anyway, the SCT software has the option to select a 3 speed automatic trans, a manual trans, or the 4 speed automatic. So if programming anyway, don't worry about the transmission the truck originally had. If it had a 3 speed automatic or manual, it just allows you run it without setting transmission codes. That is something the tuner can do when they develop your calibrations to be loaded into the handheld for the end user to load into the vehicle's PCM. The handheld tuner cannot simply select this option.
 
Not necessarily. Ford trucks and MBZ used external inline pumps. Ford strapped it to a frame rail. MBZ hung it in a vibration insulated scrodum next to the fuel tank, the bigger motors got 2 in series. These Walbro pumps can be had for under $40 online. You will need a return line.
Good point, I mostly see complaints of burned up inlines, but don't hear about reliable cases.
-Anyway, Truckie here is a pic of Badass71's fuel set up. The stock pump has a telescoping base that allows some flexibility for the depth of a fuel cell. One can either use tabs to hold down or graft the donor tank mount. The pressure would be correct, no need for return line, and all part of the harness. Just an option.

pump.jpg
 
Good point, I mostly see complaints of burned up inlines, but don't hear about reliable cases.
-Anyway, Truckie here is a pic of Badass71's fuel set up. The stock pump has a telescoping base that allows some flexibility for the depth of a fuel cell. One can either use tabs to hold down or graft the donor tank mount. The pressure would be correct, no need for return line, and all part of the harness. Just an option.

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Yup easy button for sure. I bought a new Abody tank and mounted the stock RAM pump.
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Yup easy button for sure. I bought a new Abody tank and mounted the stock RAM pump.
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I was just wondering if that was possible. So I could drop my tank and put the fuel pump from the donor trunk in my tank with a little fab work. Can I get more pics of your set up? Have you had any issues with it leaking?
 
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I was just wondering if that was possible. So I could drop my tank and put the fuel pump from the donor trunk in my tank with a little fab work. Can I get more pics of your set up?
More pics is going to be hard because I don’t have any. And the tank is sitting under a workbench at my shop covered in dust. But I bought a new tank, cut a big hole in the top, welded studs (3) to the top, and modified the spring loaded telescopic base for the depth I needed. I used a new tank because I knew I was welding to it and cutting on it and I wanted one that never had gas in it. Plus my tank was original to the car and had rust in it. If you weld to an old one, fill it with water and-or purge it with an inert gas. I used this setup with zero problems for a while stock and now it’s completely different for the turbo setup, needed a lot more pump.
 
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