If you just couldn't do oil mods, what's an alternative?

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fishmens67 said:
did you read the section on bearing grooving in the PDF I posted.
Click to expand...

That was some fascinating reading. Lots of info in digestible form, and not just on the bearings. Thanks for the post.

I find it intriguing that a company that has tested this, and come up with those findings still sells 3/4 and full groove bearings. A case of, "the customer wants what the customer wants" type situation? Because the way I understood that was, anything past half groove, even less then 3/4 starts taking away from upper bearing support and does nothing to help lower bearing support.

If they'd ever answer their phone I'd like to ask themthat.
 
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Wagamon engines or Crankshaft Supply are in the Minneapolis area if you need a machine shop
 
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Minnesota Muscle said:
That was some fascinating reading. Lots of into in digestible form, and not just on the bearings. Thanks for the post.

I find it intriguing that a company that has tested this, and come up with those findings still sells 3/4 and full groove bearings. A case of, "the customer wants what the customer wants" type situation? Because the way I understood that was, anything past half groove, even less then 3/4 starts taking away from upper bearing support and does nothing to help lower bearing support.

If they'd ever answer their phone I'd like to ask themthat.
Click to expand...


The issue is getting oil to the rods. Because the Chrysler oiling system is not timed correctly you need oil to the rods full time. Full groove main bearings do that.

In 41 years, I’ve never seen a main bearing fail because it was grooved, but I’ve seen a bunch of rod bearings killed because there wasn’t any oil there.
 
Get an accumulator. Especially one that has the solenoid and pressurizes the system prior to start up.
That in itself will prevent what most mods in the oiling system are trying to accomplish, from extra volume to baffling.
 
As. Others have said, 1/2" oil pick up, verify that the oil pump cover is drilled as deep as it should be in the oil passage, full groove mains, HV pump, seven Qt pan and a windage tray. These are the only modifications to my 440s that I do and in almost 40 years I have never had a oil related failure. I ran my junk hard in the past, 7000 + rpm but now I use smaller cams and limit them to 6500.
 
all of the above if your building a bleeder. lol
 
My dad has been running big blocks since the early 80's and I started in 2003. We have never done any oil mods. We do run a windage tray and a HV pump. We never built a stroker, just mostly mild stuff (under 11:1 comp). We generally shift the motors at 6,000 and don't turn them over 6,500 to try and help them live. We also run A body (Duster) He used to use a stock pan, but now we run the cheap 7 qt pans that come with a 3/8" pickup from ebay. We have to dent the passenger side some to clear the steering linkage when it turns the whole way. We've never broke an engine due to oiling issues.
 
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