RADIATOR CHOICE

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A/MP

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For my last daily driver, 1965 Dart 4 door,318,400HP to be completed, I need a radiator. Saw this one at Summit
1965 DODGE DART Summit Racing® Performance Fit Aluminum Radiators SUM-384034
Any good or a better selection? Thanks
 
I'm running a Griffin in mine it's a single core and was told is about the best on the market.
Don't know how true that is but never had an overheating problem even in a parade she stays cool.
I'm running a 408 with 470 HP .
 
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If your more door came factory/6 you have a 17 1/2" opening . If your car came with a v-8 it cams with a 22" opening . Your gonna need a lot of radiator to cool a 400 hp motor . champion , Cold Case , Griffin , American Radiator , to name a few . I would not buy ANY radiator that is NOT a bolt in . I suggest a shroud and a clutch fan , high flow water pump and high flow thermostat . "Cheap ain't good and good ain't cheap ."
 
Another thing I learned in my radiator quest is that the aluminum cores are thicker than the copper stock ones. So fan fitment can become a bit of a chore. Also, even if they say the stock shroud fits, it may bolt on but they do not seal like they do the original radiator.

If you have the 17-1/2" opening I'd skip the the 22" and go to a 26" if you are using the 70-up water pump with the passenger outlet.
 
I usually bring the stock rad to the rad shop and have them recore with high efficiency 4 core copper and brass. They run me about 5-550 and I currently have a 22” keeping my 440 car cool. Not an early a, but same rules apply
 
Considering ALL the factors of copper v alum for radiators, alum wins out. As long as it is welded/brazed not epoxied.
- while copper is a better heat conductor, larger tubes can be used in alum radiators which allow for more efficient fin design, the fins being what actually sheds the heat.
- the brass & solder used in copper rads are poor conductors of heat.
- the alum rad is more robust, especially in vehicles where it is NOT rubber mounted. The soft solder can crack/leak in copper rads from road shock/big pothole.
 
As stated above, do your homework before you buy an aftermarket radiator, the aluminum ones are often thicker and can cause fan clearance problems. I wouldn’t do an electric fan unless you needed to for clearance. Use a 7 blade Mopar clutch fan. I started a thread on “Cold Case Radiator Shroud” & there are some clever ideas by members on that one for shrouds.
 
For my last daily driver, 1965 Dart 4 door,318,400HP to be completed, I need a radiator. Saw this one at Summit
1965 DODGE DART Summit Racing® Performance Fit Aluminum Radiators SUM-384034
Any good or a better selection? Thanks
I run Griffin radiators made in the USA - no issues.
Stay away from the cheap chinese junk and you will be fine.
 
Well, guess I'm old school. I swapped the original two-row core for a three row core in the original radiator in my 65 Barracuda and it cools my 400 hp 340 no problem at all - high speed, low speed, stuck in traffic, doesn't matter - here in sunny Florida. Don't have a shroud, do have a clutch fan. It fits like it was designed for the car.
 
Well, guess I'm old school. I swapped the original two-row core for a three row core in the original radiator in my 65 Barracuda and it cools my 400 hp 340 no problem at all - high speed, low speed, stuck in traffic, doesn't matter - here in sunny Florida. Don't have a shroud, do have a clutch fan. It fits like it was designed for the car.
I am from MO you going to have to show me, before I believe it. LOL
 
For my last daily driver, 1965 Dart 4 door,318,400HP to be completed, I need a radiator. Saw this one at Summit
1965 DODGE DART Summit Racing® Performance Fit Aluminum Radiators SUM-384034
Any good or a better selection? Thanks
Where are you located?
 
I just had an amazing experience with Griffin. But...i'm also 600+ horsepower.
I'd buy another griffin in a minute.
 
I just had an amazing experience with Griffin. But...i'm also 600+ horsepower.
I'd buy another griffin in a minute.

I agree, this has been in my car for 9ish yrs, I dropped the car off a floor jack , trying to move it sideways and bent the front valance and the rad. too. Was brand new at the time .
IMG_0539 (3).jpg

Straightened the valance , tested the rad. , no leaks = griffin quality !
 
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