Horn problem.

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dgibby

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Any idea why when I tighten this down the horn stays on? 1968 Dart. It’s a grant steering wheel and adapter and was working fine until I replaced the signal switch. Was working fine after the switch was replaced but I had it off center so pulled it and centered it. Now it’s fine until I tighten it down then the horn stays on constantly.

0A0F3421-5EE5-43FD-8A00-13CF20F39008.jpeg
 
There is a spring that goes between the contacts.
Where should it go? There wasn’t a spring when I took it apart and it’s worked fine for the 6 years I’ve owned it.
 
Mine made Contact with the Blinker Lever Screw (You can see the Brass on it) and wore thru the Ring...
I had to Replace Everything to get the Horn Working...
It would probably still be a problem but I glued a little piece of Moleskin to the screwhead to make sure it didn't ground out.
Old Mopar's don't take Grant Kit's very well.

horn screw1.jpg


horn ring1.jpg
 
Mine made Contact with the Blinker Lever Screw (You can see the Brass on it) and wore thru the Ring...
I had to Replace Everything to get the Horn Working...
It would probably still be a problem but I glued a little piece of Moleskin to the screwhead to make sure it didn't ground out.
Old Mopar's don't take Grant Kit's very well.

View attachment 1715707766

View attachment 1715707774
Yep. Make sense. My contact ring looks the same. I’ll take it apart for the 10th time tomorrow and see if that’s it. Thanks.
 
On some of the Grant wheels, there was a spring between the horn button and the steering wheel hub/steering shaft nut. The horn button grabs the edge of the contact ring and holds it away from the inner contact. Without the spring the horn button will fall in and allow the contacts to meet.
 
Mine made Contact with the Blinker Lever Screw (You can see the Brass on it) and wore thru the Ring...
I had to Replace Everything to get the Horn Working...
It would probably still be a problem but I glued a little piece of Moleskin to the screwhead to make sure it didn't ground out.
Old Mopar's don't take Grant Kit's very well.

View attachment 1715707766

View attachment 1715707774
Winner!
The cam part of the switch was sitting up off the metal stud instead of flush so the screw was too high and rubbing like you said.
Thank you!

C815DB0C-016C-4C1E-AD23-D074D39BF1B2.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Yep. Make sense. My contact ring looks the same. I’ll take it apart for the 10th time tomorrow and see if that’s it. Thanks.

Winner!
The cam part of the switch was sitting up off the metal stud instead of flush so the screw was too high and rubbing like you said.
Thank you!

View attachment 1715711852

Everyone is beating me to it tonight.:D
Haven’t been able to spend much time on here for awhile.
Now as long as the bezel under your steering wheel goes back without hitting the column you are golden.
 
In my lifetime I think I've had something like 5 aftermarket wheels. I don't think the horn worked reliably on any of them some of them worked sometimes, some of them worked "for a time", but none of them was OEM by Gawd reliable

My first wheel was in 66 on my 57 Chev. Another was the 63 Chev SS in 68, yet another was on the 70RR, and I had one on the Chevelle column in the old FJ-40 Landcruiser. Seems like there was one other, must have been on the 64 426 Dodge 440
 
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