Intake/exhaust manifold nut trouble

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Tylan

Tylan

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Got close to removing the intake manifold off today on my slant 6, but I was stopped be one rusty nut in the most inconvenient location, basically hiding behind the exhaust manifold where the auto choke sits. This photo should give you an idea.
20210318_114000.jpg

I cant see any way of reaching this nut with a normal wrench or a socket. Anyone got any tips?
 
That is definitely the toughest one. I believe I ended up using a 1/4 drive socket with a couple short extensions snapped together so there was a little play and I managed to get on there. Of course there may be a better technique but it ended working for me.
 
Tylan said:
I cant see any way of reaching this nut with a normal wrench or a socket. Anyone got any tips?
Click to expand...

Then get an abnormal wrench or socket....

Sometimes you have to modify a standard tool to make it fit a special application...
 
Looks like you're trying to pull just the intake. Pull both manifolds as a set then split them if needed.
 
"In my yute" I have bent wrenches up through 5/8 or so, maybe bigger, using vise grips or vise and a propane torch.
 
Easy peasy. Go in under the intake where the two manifolds bolt together with a long 3/8 extension and 1/2" socket. You can get right to it.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Easy peasy. Go in under the intake where the two manifolds bolt together with a long 3/8 extension and 1/2" socket. You can get right to it.
Click to expand...
You would think so, but that just wasn't the case. The added metal from the auto-choke mount made it practically impossible to get any extension to reach the nut at a workable angle. I didn't have a universal joint attachment either, and I doubt that would've worked either.

I did manage to get the nut off today though. It took me at least 2 hours and fiddling with several wrenches going between the exhaust and the engine block, huge pain. Will definitely be trying to remove some metal from the auto-choke mount to make that nut more accessible!
 
Tylan said:
You would think so, but that just wasn't the case. The added metal from the auto-choke mount made it practically impossible to get any extension to reach the nut at a workable angle. I didn't have a universal joint attachment either, and I doubt that would've worked either.

I did manage to get the nut off today though. It took me at least 2 hours and fiddling with several wrenches going between the exhaust and the engine block, huge pain. Will definitely be trying to remove some metal from the auto-choke mount to make that nut more accessible!
Click to expand...

The chock well has ZERO interference doing it like I described. you go in from underneath. The choke well isn't even there. I JUST did this two days ago.....and HUNDREDS of other times in the past. I just told you how to do it and it works. It's not a huge pain at all, it's VERY easy. All you have to do is read and comprehend what I said.

I can go out and take a picture if you like, of the socket on the nut with the extension coming out from under the intake. I didn't just fall off the turnip truck. I've been doin this stuff since 1974.
 
Here it is. Kinda hard to see. First picture is what you use. Second picture socket is not on third picture socket is on. Nothing to it.

EXTENSION AND SOCKET.jpg


SOCKET OFF.jpg


SOCKET ON.jpg
 
And before you say "but the Offenhauser intake is different", you're right, it is different. You have LESS room with the Offenhauser than with the stock intake, but even so, the socket goes right on it. I've done literally hundreds of these through the years both in and out of the car and it's not difficult at all. I'll admit, it's not as easy as some, but I can have the manifold set off and back on with new gaskets in less than an hour in the car as long as no bolts or studs break.
 
RustyRatRod said:
And before you say "but the Offenhauser intake is different", you're right, it is different. You have LESS room with the Offenhauser than with the stock intake, but even so, the socket goes right on it. I've done literally hundreds of these through the years both in and out of the car and it's not difficult at all. I'll admit, it's not as easy as some, but I can have the manifold set off and back on with new gaskets in less than an hour in the car as long as no bolts or studs break.
Click to expand...
I'm very sorry if my reply offended you in any way, it was not at all my intention to to attack or question your experience. All I can say is in my case, I was not able to slide an extension between the two manifolds because of both the choke housing and the intake/exhaust connection getting in the way by blocking a straight path to the nut. (I should've mentioned this connection before, my mistake) I've made an illustration to hopefully better explain what was happening to me:
20210318_212658.jpg

Keep in mind it is NOT anywhere near scale, the main point is to show how the housing and intake/exhaust connection were blocking the extension to a certain angle. And yes, of course I have tried using more extensions and just coming from further back parallel to the connection, but as I said before, this just didn't work out for me. Again, sorry if any offense was taken and I appreciate your time helping.
 
Tylan said:
I'm very sorry if my reply offended you in any way, it was not at all my intention to to attack or question your experience. All I can say is in my case, I was not able to slide an extension between the two manifolds because of both the choke housing and the intake/exhaust connection getting in the way by blocking a straight path to the nut. (I should've mentioned this connection before, my mistake) I've made an illustration to hopefully better explain what was happening to me:
View attachment 1715710104
Keep in mind it is NOT anywhere near scale, the main point is to show how the housing and intake/exhaust connection were blocking the extension to a certain angle. And yes, of course I have tried using more extensions and just coming from further back parallel to the connection, but as I said before, this just didn't work out for me. Again, sorry if any offense was taken and I appreciate your time helping.
Click to expand...

You need a longer extension.
 
Tylan said:
I'm very sorry if my reply offended you in any way, it was not at all my intention to to attack or question your experience. All I can say is in my case, I was not able to slide an extension between the two manifolds because of both the choke housing and the intake/exhaust connection getting in the way by blocking a straight path to the nut. (I should've mentioned this connection before, my mistake) I've made an illustration to hopefully better explain what was happening to me:
View attachment 1715710104
Keep in mind it is NOT anywhere near scale, the main point is to show how the housing and intake/exhaust connection were blocking the extension to a certain angle. And yes, of course I have tried using more extensions and just coming from further back parallel to the connection, but as I said before, this just didn't work out for me. Again, sorry if any offense was taken and I appreciate your time helping.
Click to expand...
To remove the intake - exhaust assembly from a slant with the motor in the chassis I use a 1/4 inch drive socket set. And even then I have had to grind down the od of the socket to get it to fit into some of the tight spots. For some of them I stack a couple of extensions together. I bet that I have also used the universal/swivel connector from that set.
 
Tylan said:
I'm very sorry if my reply offended you in any way, it was not at all my intention to to attack or question your experience. All I can say is in my case, I was not able to slide an extension between the two manifolds because of both the choke housing and the intake/exhaust connection getting in the way by blocking a straight path to the nut. (I should've mentioned this connection before, my mistake) I've made an illustration to hopefully better explain what was happening to me:
View attachment 1715710104
Keep in mind it is NOT anywhere near scale, the main point is to show how the housing and intake/exhaust connection were blocking the extension to a certain angle. And yes, of course I have tried using more extensions and just coming from further back parallel to the connection, but as I said before, this just didn't work out for me. Again, sorry if any offense was taken and I appreciate your time helping.
Click to expand...

That's just odd. I've never needed anything more than straight extensions and regular sockets to get the deed done on a slant.
 
ESP47 said:
That's just odd. I've never needed anything more than straight extensions and regular sockets to get the deed done on a slant.
Click to expand...
The bolt clearances change when Clifford Intakes, Dutra Exhausts and wrapped headers are put into the mix. Some of the bolt clearance goes away.
I have never done it, but I would think that installing a Hyper Pac intake in chassis would be a pain.
 
my68barracuda said:
The bolt clearances change when Clifford Intakes, Dutra Exhausts and wrapped headers are put into the mix. Some of the bolt clearance goes away.
I have never done it, but I would think that installing a Hyper Pac intake in chassis would be a pain.
Click to expand...

I think he's just got a stock 1bbl intake and exhaust manifold. It just seems odd to me that the choke pocket and the intake to exhaust port would be that close to each other to where you couldn't get a straight extension in there. The only thing I can think is maybe there's excess casting on the choke pocket that's blocking the path?
 
ESP47 said:
I think he's just got a stock 1bbl intake and exhaust manifold. It just seems odd to me that the choke pocket and the intake to exhaust port would be that close to each other to where you couldn't get a straight extension in there. The only thing I can think is maybe there's excess casting on the choke pocket that's blocking the path?
Click to expand...
Agree that the OP has a stock intake/exhaust setup. I was mentioning the potential clearance issues with aftermarket manifolds. After messing with the Clifford and Dutra’s I marked up the tight areas and ground in additional clearance that was still needed after thinning out the wall on the 1/4 drive socket.
 
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