so after searching many old threads and PM'ing a few notable /6 guys "with trucks" I decided on what I wanted....
added to my 20-over block, polished "STD/STD" forged crank, I wanted; stay with solid lifters, an Oregon 819 regrind,
oversized valves, (got SI valves from Oregon along with my cam returned after rework) ported head (A 1st for me!) and to actually measure and "blueprint" some compression into this beast, knowing that era were not truly at "advertised" CR.... I wanted that mark, at least and maybe just a leetle bit more". That, in itself/ plus the ported head with bigger valves and ported head, should add power by themselves. Right?
Add to that, a super 6 stack (I have an NOS BBD here for the task) a hogged-out-to-2-1/4 stock exhaust manifold (for now, subject to change later, originally as cast, I found that the outlet was way off center from bolting a flange gasket to exhaust outlet) I was looking for 1 super 6 stack (for my son) and found 2, in short order. funny how that works.
plus some stuff needed just due to the age of the parts (like sending the original damper out to Damper Dudes for a rebuild) and some durability parts like a true double roller chain and gears, a steel distributor gear, a brand new FlowKooler water pump from a member here, and the best parts I could find "sitting on the shelf from 30+ years ago" could add to the "unkillable" reputation of the /6.
also while at the machine shop I had mentioned the last /6 I had built up from scratch, with a pissed off result. Only after I had that engine thru the machine shop I used then (30-ish years ago) assembled and in the car, did I discover a crack between 2 freeze plugs. after the money had been spent, after it was installed and broken in, warmed up for the 1st time, I pointed out to this machine shop what had happened to me "way back when" so he sent this one out, before starting on it and had it shot blasted, baked and completely magnafluxed to be sure this would not be a repeat of that build after he saw what he though might have been a crack that (thankfully) wound up being a casting mark.
This engine, as that 63 engine had all those years before, came to me never having heard them run before sending into the machine shop for needed machining.
I thought that by buying parts "as they become available" for what I want to pay," and doing as much of this build as humanly possible myself, would get me the best "bang for the buck". but I find myself with doubles and triples of some stuff (that's ok, spares for future consideration, right?) and even if all doubles get sold off, this will wind up the most expensive engine build I have ever done. even considering that I have only 1 head on a slant instead of 2 on any V8, etc..... between increases in how much things cost nowadays, vs when I last built an engine, and things like porting the head, O/S valves, which are new territory for me and uncontrollable BS like shipping costs.... just sending the cam "to" oregon, cost double what I expected. ($42) as well as took double the time the Post Office quoted. I have $90 in shipping there and back in a cam that cost me $120 for the work they did to it.... $80 for regrind and $40 for welding and repairing the fuel pump lobe..... and $36 in shipping both ways to and from Damper Dudes (though I sent 2 dampers, 1 for me and one for my son's 408 build) and things like "oops'ing the head with the burr bit, taking out the original seats (meaning O/S valves or replacement seats... maybe both..... mandatory to salvage the head, and accidentally just "massaging" the edge of a chamber to clean up a jagged edge, to the middle of the fire ring of the head gasket I originally planned to use, meant I had to find an Aussie gasket with way oversize fire ring, to salvage all my time spent on that head......
I bought a few different (other) brands of head gaskets to measure and see if any of them would cover up my goof.... $13 here, $15 there kind of things.
I am trying the "REAL GASKETS" silicone pan and valve cover gaskets, hoping to "guarantee" no leaks especially at the pan gaskets/ I DON'T LIKE REDO's!!!
then though I could just use my existing original truck oil pan and pickup, I bought another in case I don't get to the swap right away.... (nother $50, might get that back later, maybe not)
and coincidentally by chance, finding a fresh from a machine shop slant "peanut" head on CL, that has been in a guy's basement for (by his estimation) 30 years or so still all wrapped up, ready to run, for less than I paid for the oversize valves alone..... I had to get that...
all completely stock, but at the same time, completely machine shop fresh, and ready to bolt on.... at a "can't pass up" price.
