Engine Removal

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Coolvibes

Coolvibes

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What is the easiest / recommended way to remove the 273 V8 and manual gearbox from my 1965 Dart?

So far I have removed the carb (got it rebuilt by Woodruff), radiator, fan, battery mount, and alternator. The engine looks too wide to go down past the frame rails with the exhaust manifolds on, but it seems only 4 very LARGE bolts fasten the crossmember to the body. If I attempt to lift it out, up, will I have to remove the bonnet (I don't have a tilter, but have removed numerous engines without one)? The car also has functional A/C, which I was hoping I would not have to remove /discharge.

The plan is to change all external gaskets on the engine to stop oil leaks, and paint. Install a 4 speed 833 or 833OD instead of the 3 speed gearbox. Change from non-power to power steering, including column.
 
Assuming you have stock exhost manifolds the engine will come out from the top or the bottom.

Top pull the hood (bonnet)

Out the bottom you basically lift the car off the K frame. The engine and 3/4 of the suspension will still be attached to the k frame
 
If out the bottom, you will need to remove torsion bars from the lower control arms as well. You would almost be better off removing it from the top if you dont want to mess around with the K frame, and torsion bars.
 
You may not need to pull the hood if you use a carb flange lift plate with a short or no chain. I seem to remember I did this with my Dart then installed 4 speed from the bottom. You may want the trans out with a carb plate because you wont have the tilt option without an engine tilter to line up the trans. if you leave trans in, you can line it up from the top but you may need that tilt option for the angle. The 4 speed is heavy and even as a younger man "bench pressing :it was fun. i used a jack to a certain point but then had to man handle it from underneath... I have done both 4 speed and auto as a younger guy sometimes outside in the grass or street there is always upper body strength involved:)
 
Take it out the top. You will have to get creative to support the AC compressor with it off the engine, but still hooked to all of its hoses and not discharged, but it can be done. With that in the way, you will have to remove the hood. If it were me, I'd take all of the transmission stuff off first, and support the motor underneath with a 2 x 4 or something suitable. Since you're taking the pains to do all of the gaskets, you may as well put a new timing chain in it, and also replace all of the freeze plugs while its out. When it's time to go back in, I'd do it in reverse order. Of course you will swap the steering box and column first, but just put the motor in with the exhaust manifolds bolted on, support it from the bottom, then build all the transmission stuff from the crank flange back. Do a new clutch while its apart! Now that I've helped spend a bunch of your money.....good luck and have fun! :D
 
If you want to pull the engine with transmission together out the top you need an engine leveler. I tried with a carb plate years ago but I could not get it out. I did pull the engine out by it's self (no trans) with the carb plate and didn't have to remove the hood, although a tight fit. When I put it back with the trans attached to the engine the transmission is quit heavy and it will lift awkwardly and it's very hard to get it to lift off the ground even with 2 guys helping with the extra weight on the back of the engine. The engine leveler will get the engine and trans fairly level but the extra height of the leveler being attached to the motor will not come out with the hood on.


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I’ve pulled them out the top both with the trans hookup and not hooked up. With and without the hood on the car. Hood on with trans on is the biggest PITA. If you take the hood off. Ensure to make the hindges for easy realignment when putting the hood back on..
 
I've always done it out the top. This time I removed the hood (bonnet) but I've also done it without. This picture was a 273.

Unbolt exhaust manifolds, any grounds, and electrical wiring. I use an "engine leveler" to help doing it by myself. I lay a rug across the grill to protect it. Its a lot of back and forth adjusting the leveler - raising the hoist - adjusting the leveler - raising the hoist. Slow and steady wins the race!! Watch for anything you didn't disconnect! I also drain the transmission, then use a rubber band to hold a bag over the extension housing after removing the drive shaft.

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Out the top with the trans on it, jack up the rear and put jack stands under the axle tubes, it helps with the angle going in or out.
 
Unbolt trans, hook motor , lift and get it off the motor mounts. Support the trans bell and separate the trans with a crowbar or pulling the motor forward with the picker. Hoist it outs. No hood removal needed. Cant comment on A/C, never had one.
<<< use shortest chain length or you'll run out of lift trying to get it over fender or rad support. Its too late if you find your picker is at max lift and your pan is not high enough. >>>
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IMHO, tge time it would take to remove the hood will benifet you grately.

Like if you have to work under the dash remove the front seats and be comfortable. 4 to 8 bolts no big deal.

Hood use a grease pencil to make alignment marks.
 
Good morning Listers. Thanks for all your replies and suggestions. Pishta's pic with the engine from the top and the hood on looks very tight; and no A/C components to obstruct.
Pntastar69, your garage is immaculate....and big. How high is your radiator support from the floor to slide the engine out from underneath? I was hoping not to mess with front suspension and torsion bars, so still haven't decided which way to go yet.

Going down will certainly allow me to clean up, paint, and replace lots of front end components on the car though.

I did tell my wife I purchased this car as it's running, won't need a lot of work, and I wouldn't have it in the garage as a project.....now if only I had put that in writing.

Thanks guys. I am still undecided as to which way to go, but will make a decision as I strip more things off.

Side Note: someone had mentioned upper body strength, which does not apply to me. I am accustomed to aluminum bell housings, so was very surprised yesterday when I tried lifting the 833/273 V8 OEM bell......wasn't happening. How much does that thing weigh, 100 pounds?
 
Cool. Thanks for the compliment. That pic was from 2 years ago so I have no measurements. I used 2 cheapo dollies from HF and beefed them up w/2 bys. If you gage the rad support to the top of the base cabinets which are 25" from the floor, that'll get you close to the measurement, give or take a few inches.

BTW - I run a 4 speed.
 
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Take the distributor out! (Or at least the cap) With all the shenanigans it gets into the firewall very easily. The early A has a short engine compartment and seems to shrink even more when pulling an engine.

If it was me, I would take the trans out from the bottom. It's the little 3 speed a903 and weighs practically nothing. It even has an aluminum tail housing. My son and I threw mine in place like putting a hat box onto a closet shelf. The little aluminum BH is also very light.

Now, a cast iron 833 is another story! Those things are heavy. Unless you get an engine tilter, I'd still put the trans in from the bottom. The small clutch 273 BH is also cast iron. Your choice as to whether you assemble the clutch/BH while its dangling from the engine hoist or from underneath.

Just for fun, you should set your wife in a lawn chair nearby with a glass of wine and let her watch. Could be the best entertainment she's had in awhile.
 
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