A833 Rebuild help needed.
Do I have the 3-4 hub reversed?
IDK, but there is something wrong there, that third gear will never shift right like that; I think the brass got under the strut, or out of the slot. Spin the brass around until you find a slot, then shove the strut into it and push the slider to the rear to keep them indexed.. OOps never mind I missed pic #1
Ok then grab third gear and pry it forward; if it moves more than a few thousands of an inch, then something is wrong. OOps never mind;
Yeah the more I study the very First posted pic, I think that hub is on backwards; slide the slider off and maybe I can tell more. Yeah that's it!. If you take the hub off and fit it into the input gear, you will see that the hub is clearanced to fit in there. If you reverse it ,the hub will hit the input before the loaded tail hits home. I will edit post number #2.
But there seems to be something else going on in the pics that I can't quite put my finger on; which is; the 3-4 slider seems to be offset towards the front, leaving the clutch-teeth on third gear way too far from the slider.
BTW-1;
if the teeth on your brass rings are less than about .030 away from the clutch teeth when lightly seated; then
1) your synchronization will be slow, and
2) it may grind going into gear, and
3) soon the struts may pop out on the adjacent gear, and leave you stranded in that gear, and
4) when you ram it into gear, you will overpower the brake action, and for sure get some grinding.
The brass needs to be up closer to .050/.060, or the struts need to be lengthened.
BTW-2
your braking cones are are glazed, and they will be slow to synchronize. I stick my gears in a lathe and run some 100/120g emery cloth over them, backed by the lathe-file, as the gears are spinning. Just a couple of swipes with the emery in full contact with the brake surface. I have learned to bias the swipes so that afterwards the brass screws itself onto the brake, during synchronization, and makes the trans shift like lightning. You can test this before assembly, by orienting the parts correctly and lightly pressing on the brass as you spin it in the correct direction; it should tighten up instantly. The 1 and 3 brakes are biased differently than 2 and 4, cuz they spin in opposite directions. I bias first for downshifting into.
Second gear is the most important, cuz that's the gear you will be going into and out of, the most.
Is it noticeable?
Well lemmee put it this way;
If you do it backwards, you will be pulling the trans out again real soon,lol, cuz it doesn't shift worth spit.
Did this happen to me?
Well duh, how do you think I learned this,lol.
If you take the mainshaft apart again to polish the brakes, you might as well do another trick I know. Which is; Take the strut energizer springs and stretch them out far enough to at least double the end-gaps. This will delay the slider to strut over-run and jam the struts into the brass keeping them working harder for longer. You won't feel it in the stick, but your clutch teeth will love you for it.
BTW-3
Trust me; forget full synthetic trans oil, it is just too slippery. Run a 50/50 of Dextron-II and 75/90 dyno EP oil, with NO SureGrip additive; make sure you read the label. The EP oil is for the cluster pin longevity, that is all I use it for. My cluster pins last for decades on this mix. The ATF squeezes out faster and the brass can get to work sooner, making your A833 shift like a toploader, fast and easy.
Yes I have heard some guys have got synthetic to work. But I gotta tell you, I once took that trans down three times in one week, to modify various things, in an effort to make it shift faster with synthetic. It failed my every attempt. So I took the rest of the week off, and the following week, took it down a fourth time, and washed all that slippery synthetic oil right outta there, and went back to my 50/50 mix. And after that I was rewarded with the fastest shifting A833 ever, maybe in the World! So either; I'm a dumbazz, or the the synthetic users are easier to please, or IDK, but I ain't ever gonna put synthetic trans oil in my A833 again.
Oh yeah, I better tell you; I street slick shifted second and third gears during this exercise too. This is done by grinding off every second clutch tooth, and every second spline in the sleeves; just the engagement area. You assemble it with the brass rings in it, and in everyday use, you never know that the trans has been modded. But this mod doubles the space where the slider meshes with the clutch, and when you get to ramming it in there, it shifts like lightning, so much so that it is easy to overpower the brass. Mine works to the highest rpms I have tested which is over 7200. BAM!!
When I was testing it, I walked the looong walks, the lengths of my blackies, and could not find any breaks in the stripes, while the clutch was disengaged between the shifts. That's fast. Well to be fair, the "junkie" 295/50-15s never stop spinning anyway, so they must be contributing their own flywheel effect during the momentary neutral. Yeah that must be it,lol.
