Clutch "knocking"?
Fingers crossed, mounting the clutch linkage properly seems to have stopped the sound I was hearing. Small win, but at least it's a win. Thanks to all for the comments.
BTW
when you are finally motoring, you do not have to push the clutch all the way to the floor. And with a diaphragm clutch, at higher rpms, that occasionally ends with the pedal staying down there.
So, you only need to push the pedal down far enough to pull a clean shift. You can tell where that is by; with the car rolling, shift from neutral to any gear, at various pedal positions, while continuously reducing your pedal-push. At the first sign of difficulty, that's not quite enough.
The reason the car needs to be rolling is so that you don't get confused by the teeth on the synchros butting up on the slider teeth; which in first gear happens a lot..
The reason Chrysler put so much travel in the pedal, is so that you don't have to adjust the freeplay so often; AND, because in reverse, there is no synchro, so it usually requires a lil more clutch departure to shift into reverse without grinding.
If you lengthen the lever as Matt shows very nicely, you may need to put a block under your pedal to prevent over-travel, which, with a diaphragm-clutch and no rev-limiter, can end badly, when the pedal fails to return and you gas pedal is on the floor.
That happened to me and I watched helplessly as the tach crossed 8000 rpm.... on it's way back from wherever it had been..... Yeah so I ordered a rev-limiter soon after. In my case, my valve gear was set up to put up with "Some" overspeed, but I found out that day, that I'd done good, as no damage was done.
You're results may vary.
