Prefab steel buildings

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diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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michigan
How guys

I took the cover of the boat today and found it was full of water

Long story short, I think it would be wise to put up a car port to keep it under during the winter

I'm thinking of going with a place like www.directmetalbuildings.com

Now, this is where it gets tricky

i park the boat next to the downstairs garage door, which is in between 2 small retaining walls, which both have different heights (and neither one extends out far enough

the span will need to be about 24X24


does this sound doable?

any experience with this kind of project?

(all i need is a roof to keep the snow and rain out of the boat)
 
Since your in MI, you're going to want to pay attention to the snow load rating. As far as span goes, my pole barn is 36 feet wide with no supports. Living in South Texas, there really isn't a snow load rating required, but if there was, they can make a truss that will carry the load. Usually, you'll have a local code requirement that the building manufacturer can design to. There are also wind ratings if that is a concern. mine was required to withstand 115 MPH, some require 150. These aren't willy nilly numbers and are spec'd to maintain a safe structure.
 
Do your homework and look up all the reviews you can on these metal building companies. Lots of shady scams out there or middlemen who do nothing for you other than cost you a couple thousand dollars extra for their "service".
 
one thing i noticed is that most of the buildings have a foot or so overlap between the frame and the roof
which mean i can put the frame in between the two retaining walls and still cover the entire spread

that would be cool


but first, i need to fix the one retaining wall
 
diymirage said:
one thing i noticed is that most of the buildings have a foot or so overlap between the frame and the roof
which mean i can put the frame in between the two retaining walls and still cover the entire spread

that would be cool


but first, i need to fix the one retaining wall
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Be sure. often time, the overhang is extra. You'd be surprised how much extra a 1 foot overhang on my 36x48 pole barn was. it changes everything. to do with the roof. Trusses are different, purlin layout, amount of steel etc. It adds up quick.
 
I used Carolina Carport.

Most manufacturers have specific widths and lengths.

Most web sites show the widths available and lengths as multiples.

IE you can get 10, 12, 16, and 20 foot wide in multiples of 23" or 42" lengths.

The width would be the span and the length would be the spacing.
 
I had to pay a $75 county fee/inspection to show that my building with no plumbing would work with my existing septic tank.

You might also want to check the setback.

In my area concrete can go right up to the property line, but any structure (other than a fence) must be 5 feet away.
 
YY1 said:
I had to pay a $75 county fee/inspection to show that my building with no plumbing would work with my existing septic tank.

You might also want to check the setback.

In my area concrete can go right up to the property line, but any structure (other than a fence) must be 5 feet away.
Click to expand...


That's likely because it's easier bust up concrete than take a building down.
 
YY1 said:
I had to pay a $75 county fee/inspection to show that my building with no plumbing would work with my existing septic tank.

You might also want to check the setback.

In my area concrete can go right up to the property line, but any structure (other than a fence) must be 5 feet away.
Click to expand...

Also, in my area, adding a separate building to an existing septic, doesn't change the septic capacity requirements as long as the building isn't a dwelling. If you're in the building, then you're not in the house. You haven't put any extra "load" on the system.
 
My point is- even a "car port" is not allowed to be within 5 feet of the property line here.
 
YY1 said:
My point is- even a "car port" is not allowed to be within 5 feet of the property line here.
Click to expand...


Yessir, understood. Just pointing it out for the OP.

If I built my barn inside the 10 foot line and the county needed to run something down in that spot, I'm out of luck.... that could be bad since they have the right of way in that case.
 
Thanks for all the help guys

This is no more of a building then a roof
That is all I need it for

(The reason it needs to span the entire 24 ft is because of the angle of the driveway, I have to "turn" into it, so if it was only, say 12 ft wide I'd hit the support posts)

I'll see if I can snatch a few picks later
 
found an old aerial that will do

the property line the red line at the bottom
the red square is the roof i want to put in
(as you can tell, plenty of room from the property line

map measurement2.png
 
JDMopar said:
I knew that was you up on 64th St! I knew it!!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Fun fact, before we bought this place, we owned a duplex on James Street

It was in the driveway of that duplex I converted the duster from a /6 to a 360...and then a 408

For years, my car was known around town as the "James Street duster"
 
I have been thinking of running some radiant wire under the metal in case of real heavy snow. We dont get it often, but when we do it is usually followed by heavy rain which makes for a lot of weight in a short period of time.

$0.02
 
clementine said:
I have been thinking of running some radiant wire under the metal in case of real heavy snow. We dont get it often, but when we do it is usually followed by heavy rain which makes for a lot of weight in a short period of time.

$0.02
Click to expand...

No kidding...the heavy snow load is what started all this
I have a little 21 foot boat with a universal cover on it
I had made a frame out of 2x4s, doubled up to keep the cover from sagging into the cockpit of the boat

I guess we got so much snow this winter that the doubled up 2x4s broke under the weight
 
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