Told the wife about this and here response was "what's she think about sister wives? You're about to be a dentist, we can't get divorced yet."
Dartin for Divorce
- Thread starter DentalDart
- Start date
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Told the wife about this and here response was "what's she think about sister wives? You're about to be a dentist, we can't get divorced yet."
Out with old, in with new...
Lines need tightened, need to bleed calipers then bleed brakes... hopefully tomorrow afternoon I'll get to drive it....
I was able to put my mechanical skills to work today and build a tricycle for my daughter though. She loves it! And luckily there aren't any brakes to install on it...
Lines need tightened, need to bleed calipers then bleed brakes... hopefully tomorrow afternoon I'll get to drive it....
I was able to put my mechanical skills to work today and build a tricycle for my daughter though. She loves it! And luckily there aren't any brakes to install on it...
I hope that car burns to the ground... no matter how tight I get the lines they keep leaking... ill try to back off and retighten them otherwise I hope it burns.... I literally bathed in brake fluid earlier. Said **** it and left...
I loosen/tighten them 2 or three times before final tighten. I also anti-sieze between nut and tube.
Now i have a mastercool hydraulic flaring kit, makes perfect flares.
But i have been flaring brake lines for 30 years. And its about time i dont have to struggle.
Now i have a mastercool hydraulic flaring kit, makes perfect flares.
But i have been flaring brake lines for 30 years. And its about time i dont have to struggle.
I see you need to fix the steering coupler too. That also sucks.
Steering coupler not getting fixed anytime soon.
I'll loosen and retighten them a couple of times. Tony said not to use the copper nickel brake line so I'll just bloody my knuckles lol
I understand the copper nickel lines work harden,but they dont really flex with a uni-body car.
Softer, yes, easier to flare and bend and more corrosion resistant.
so what is the reasoning to not use it, im curious.
I dont argue with the master mopar builder in my life, he just said steel was better. I bought a 25ft roll anyways.... it will be here on Monday... lol
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
I like to keep a spare fitting in my toolbox. I tighten new flares on it a half dozen times before putting it in the car, then only tighten a couple times in the car and it will almost always seat.
Helps to not overdo the flare with the tool, leave some crush left so that when it's installed the flare can marry to the fitting. It takes some trial and error.
Helps to not overdo the flare with the tool, leave some crush left so that when it's installed the flare can marry to the fitting. It takes some trial and error.
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Ok.... so I don't want to jinx myself but I may or may not have found the problem, and I will not know until after I get the brakes bled.
I couldn't get 1 fitting to stop leaking, the connection from the rear port of the MC to the front brake inlet port of the prop valve - ie the top fitting.
Made a new line (already stripped the flare nut). When I got the old line off I noticed the flare looked good but the fitting itself was flat, like a NPT type fitting? Weird because this was the fitting I pulled from the old lines.
Anyways I put on a different fitting, one that looked like all the other brake fittings. Tightened everything down and didn't see any leaking when pumping and holding the brakes... so I guess we will see soon....
I couldn't get 1 fitting to stop leaking, the connection from the rear port of the MC to the front brake inlet port of the prop valve - ie the top fitting.
Made a new line (already stripped the flare nut). When I got the old line off I noticed the flare looked good but the fitting itself was flat, like a NPT type fitting? Weird because this was the fitting I pulled from the old lines.
Anyways I put on a different fitting, one that looked like all the other brake fittings. Tightened everything down and didn't see any leaking when pumping and holding the brakes... so I guess we will see soon....
So no leaking, only what looks like 1 fitting which is seeping a little through the threads... (I guess that's "leaking" lol). I'll loosen and retighten all of the lines a couple of more times, then maybe if they keep it up apply some sealer... don't judge me.
Wife helped me bleed the brakes, holy **** balls, these brakes work amazing!
The pedal is not "hard" like it was at all, each pedal stroke is exactly the same (no softer than harder and different depths when pressing it) the front calipers are not locking up and staying locked up for 3-5 seconds after pressing the brakes, I can lock up the wheels when I slam on the brakes while driving.
I'll drive it a bit more this weekend after retiggtening the lines. If it doesn't stop seeping I'll make another line that goes from the prop valve to the front drivers caliper.
After I finished the wife told me I needed to clean the garage... she then said I was doing it to slow... so she helped me...
I also found another leak, it's from my transmission where it mates up with the back of the engine? I'll have to investigate it a little more... maybe I'm blowing up the transmission only manually shifting? Lol
Wife helped me bleed the brakes, holy **** balls, these brakes work amazing!
The pedal is not "hard" like it was at all, each pedal stroke is exactly the same (no softer than harder and different depths when pressing it) the front calipers are not locking up and staying locked up for 3-5 seconds after pressing the brakes, I can lock up the wheels when I slam on the brakes while driving.
I'll drive it a bit more this weekend after retiggtening the lines. If it doesn't stop seeping I'll make another line that goes from the prop valve to the front drivers caliper.
After I finished the wife told me I needed to clean the garage... she then said I was doing it to slow... so she helped me...
I also found another leak, it's from my transmission where it mates up with the back of the engine? I'll have to investigate it a little more... maybe I'm blowing up the transmission only manually shifting? Lol
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
I won't judge you, but it also won't work. If the flare fails to seal, sealer will get blown out by the pressure. It may look good after a couple pedal presses, but will fail soon after.
Since you found one suspect nut, I'd check the others and their flares. They don't leak for no reason ;)
I agree.
So if you dont mind, how about you share how you do the flares,and perhaps we can figure out if mistakes are being made.
So if you dont mind, how about you share how you do the flares,and perhaps we can figure out if mistakes are being made.
I do the flares with the cheap flare tool. Most of the time they look good. But I never know, it's steel so not as forgiving.
I assume I will have to redo a line or 2...
It's much to hard to do the flares while the lines are on the car.
Edit- I think they do leak for no reason other than to frustrate me...
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Dartsun
Mopar Dude
Cool you wife helps you got yourself a keeper. Helped clean the garage to.
Oh she is WAY to good for me. I figure she is just waiting for me to become a dentist then find someone better to leave me for lol.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
The 2 mc lines from inline tube could have been had for less than that flare tool kit. In fact, pre bent lines for the whole car is about $125.00 Sure beats f**ks, and busted knuckles.
Carry on.
Carry on.
My flare tool cost a whopping 20 bucks... and it has done many many lines.
I'm pretty sure the whole car was more than 125... never the less, I'm still just barely touching that amount in parts to redo the brake lines and brake master cylinders.
Also- I wouldn't have learned how to do another piece of the puzzle to working on these cars.
Maybe when in rich like you and the other mopar guys I'll just buy everything brand new all the time and just pay other people to work on my cars for me. I won't have to worry about knowing what isn't working properly or how to do any of the work my cars need to keep running..
Johnny Dart is going to hate seeing me work on my next car... a true 68 gts... heck he might have an aneurysm when I "build" a stroker motor lol. 
Phreakish
Well-Known Member
Johnny Dart is going to hate seeing me work on my next car... a true 68 gts... heck he might have an aneurysm when I "build" a stroker motor lol.
He just had a stroke when you mentioned "stroker". Stock is perfect, how dare you try anything but!
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
My flare tool cost a whopping 20 bucks... and it has done many many lines.
I'm pretty sure the whole car was more than 125... never the less, I'm still just barely touching that amount in parts to redo the brake lines and brake master cylinders.
Also- I wouldn't have learned how to do another piece of the puzzle to working on these cars.
Maybe when in rich like you and the other mopar guys I'll just buy everything brand new all the time and just pay other people to work on my cars for me. I won't have to worry about knowing what isn't working properly or how to do any of the work my cars need to keep running..
Haha....You are funny. I build all my cars dude.
I've built brake lines, but I have found it much more effective to buy the pre bent lines. Bolt on and go. No fuss, no leaks, no headaches. Hopefully some day you can get your brakes to stop leaking.
Johnny Dart
Well-Known Member
Johnny Dart is going to hate seeing me work on my next car... a true 68 gts... heck he might have an aneurysm when I "build" a stroker motor lol.
You mean when your buddy builds you a motor.
I agree, it would of been much less fuss, headaches and leaking. Oh well, I'm already in it to fix them myself at this point.
You mean when your buddy builds you a motor.
Lol. No. I have and would not ever ask him to build a motor for me. We all know I'm willing to give it a try myself.
I'm sure he would offer advice and to help if I asked... heck I ask him for advice all the time as he is much smarter than I am with this stuff.
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