2 and 3 pass radiators

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famous bob

famous bob

mopar misfit
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Anyone of you guys ever switched to a 2 or 3 pass alum. radiator of the same size as the preceding one ?
Wondering if all the hype is B.S. ---------thanks Bob
 
I had a two pass aluminum in the Demon bracket car with the 408, it was iffy cooling it down in round robin events. I went to a 3 pass cross aluminum flow when I built my 416 & usually by the time it get back to the pit area & cycle the electric water pump & electric fan about 3 times, it's ready to go another round.
 
IMHO a multi pass rad has merit. It would force coolant to pass through the tubes more uinformally and completely.
 
This might be my boogered up memory, but it seems like I've read before that after the 2 pass, it becomes kinda counter productive.....in other words the 2 pass is about as good as you can get.

Like I said, I could be totally wrong on that but for some reason it sticks out.
 
I have a 22” high efficiency 4 row copper and brass on my 440. Had the rad shop split and recore. Real good friend of mine and wouldn’t steer me wrong. Cost 500 but it’s been great
 
RustyRatRod said:
Actually, that didn't show me crap
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How's this?
f0173b43-f20a-4da4-a6d7-fae09452ed74.f2efd183d484cdaeed0d446ada0da788.jpeg


:rofl::poke::rolleyes:
 
When Cold Case first was introduced, all our radiators were dual and 3 pass. The 3 pass can only be used with offset/offset downflow radiators Through customer data obtained over time, we had some higher temps than we had expected with downflow units using the 3 pass method. Turns out when the fluid had to be pushed up through the middle of the radiator, some cavitation occurred. Cavitation is 'bad'. So we then switched to dual 1 1/4" cores and eliminated the multi pass units with the downflows. The increased fluid volume did way better than the 3 pass method and we've stuck with that ever since.
We stayed with dual pass on the crossflow radiators because this has already been tested and used by major auto mfg's. Since there is not the need to 'push' the fluid uphill, we are not seeing any of the cavitation issues noted on the downflow units.
 
Ccas said:
When Cold Case first was introduced, all our radiators were dual and 3 pass. The 3 pass can only be used with offset/offset downflow radiators Through customer data obtained over time, we had some higher temps than we had expected with downflow units using the 3 pass method. Turns out when the fluid had to be pushed up through the middle of the radiator, some cavitation occurred. Cavitation is 'bad'. So we then switched to dual 1 1/4" cores and eliminated the multi pass units with the downflows. The increased fluid volume did way better than the 3 pass method and we've stuck with that ever since.
We stayed with dual pass on the crossflow radiators because this has already been tested and used by major auto mfg's. Since there is not the need to 'push' the fluid uphill, we are not seeing any of the cavitation issues noted on the downflow units.
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I run a crossflow , does cold case make a downflow that wil cool 800 h.p. ? mine is supposed to , but is on the edge -------------???
Not that I have 800 ------------lol
 
i run a 2 pass crosss flow jegs special,sealed to radiator support,185 deg stat. in 105 deg arkansas weather never go over 200 degs, cheap pusher fan in front of the radiator, car is a 68 gts conv with 440, 671 dyers with auto. with old radiator 230 degs in summer at stop light was common.
 
turbobill said:
i run a 2 pass crosss flow jegs special,sealed to radiator support,185 deg stat. in 105 deg arkansas weather never go over 200 degs, cheap pusher fan in front of the radiator, car is a 68 gts conv with 440, 671 dyers with auto. with old radiator 230 degs in summer at stop light was common.
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BOTH INLET AND OUTLET ON THE SAME SIDE ? Wont work on mine , from what I read , triple pass for them to be of mopar configuration .
 
did alot of reading when i did this upgrade,thought that cooling system psi vs heat exchange vs radiator surface area that the 2 pass would be best for my car. yes both the inlet and outlet are on the pass side of the car. this is a stock 74 new yorker 440 that i rebuilt in 94. schumacker 1 3/4 ? try ys, when i had 2in cppas and power brakes,boiled the brake fluid,went to alum master cyl with heat shield and remover the booster,went with smaller headers no problems since. running 6lbs of boost,
 
famous bob said:
BOTH INLET AND OUTLET ON THE SAME SIDE ? Wont work on mine , from what I read , triple pass for them to be of mopar configuration .
Click to expand...

Right. That won't work for mine either.
 
I have always been of the mind that a dual pass has less cooling area and is basically snake oil.
Twice the cooling time but through half the area type thinking.

Surely someone out there can tell me I’m wrong, right? :D
 
TrailBeast said:
Surely someone out there can tell me I’m wrong, right?
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Not right not wrong!

The fluid will flow through the path of least resistance. On a single top down rad, the fluid enters the top and is pulled out the bottom, if the inlet and outlet is on the same side, the fluid closest to the in and out should move faster through the rad, the tubes farther from the in and out will move slower and remove less heat.

Top down single with inlet and outlet on opposite sides will have a more uniform flow.

Cross flows are still more uniform, and a dual or tripple cross flow even more.


That's the way I understand it.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Not right not wrong!

The fluid will flow through the path of least resistance. On a single top down rad, the fluid enters the top and is pulled out the bottom, if the inlet and outlet is on the same side, the fluid closest to the in and out should move faster through the rad, the tubes farther from the in and out will move slower and remove less heat.

Top down single with inlet and outlet on opposite sides will have a more uniform flow.

Cross flows are still more uniform, and a dual or tripple cross flow even more.


That's the way I understand it.
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Rabbit hole I tell you.:D
I get it that it’s a balance depending on a lot of possible influences.
The problem I have is that I would like the specific type of radiator for what my car is used for.
I guess overkill is better than barely being able to handle the temps and I would like to add an AC system and external oil and trans coolers.
When I find a radiator that could or should be able to handle it the cost shuts it down. :D

What I would like is to be able to 75-80 with AC on in 125 degree weather and have everything easily handle it for hours and hours.
You know, like a regular car. :D
Maybe some day I might get around to it, maybe not.
Thanks for your thoughts on it in any case.
 
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