88 D100 issues

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moparker

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My old dodge started running rough a week or so ago. It was pulsating and idling rough. After warm it got better. I had replaced the computer years ago with a used one when it was acting the same way. I unhooked the battery and reset it it. It ran great again however, the problem started up again. I odered a rebuilt computer and installed it. Truck ran worse. Put the old one back on. Now it wont start. Put the new one back on. Started but, ran bad. Tried to pull it in the garage and it died. Wont restart. Im thinking cam senser or crank senser. Truck is bone stock with 90,000 miles. The distributer has been replaced some years back. Same with plugs and wires when I had the first go round. Havnt checked for spark yet. Ran out of time yesterday. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
My w150 had a corroded distributor connector worth a fast look similar issue.
 
Ignition or fuel, start with the spark plugs to see if they are sparking while cranking. If yes, then go on to fuel, starting with the fuel filter.

Cut the fuel filter open to see if it is full of sediment and or water. Need good fuel supply to run good.

Electric fuel pump going out or has gone out.
 
Fun Facts ^^^^^ if it is an '88 318, then it will have the good 302 closed chamber heads.

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Update. Went out to start the hunt. Fir ***** and giggles tried to start it. It fired up. I shut it off. Found the ground that goes from the fire wall to the back of the block. Wire brushed both connections. Put back on. Truck will idle but still dont sound right. Put it in gear and it stalled. Restarted. Tried again. Wanted to stall.
 
Checked connection of distributer wire. Looks good
 
Check engine light came on yesterday but, not today. Runnin rough.
 
Fun Facts ^^^^^ if it is an '88 318, then it will have the good 302 closed chamber heads.

View attachment 1715718860
Maybe.
They are also #714 heads that are the same and 163 and 593 that were used up leftovers.

Mainly though... it doesnt matter when it wont run.

OP. Check for a pulsing 5 volts when hooked up and cranking over at the cam sensor/distributor plug/harness...orange wire I think. If it's not showing a flashing 5 volts... its bad.
Might also be the coil. Sensors usually just stop working... while coils will fizzle out, come and go...so to speak.
 
Should I be getting spray from both injectors or just one? Noticeda clicking sound from throttle body.
 
Did get some codes. 12 and 33. 12 means the computer has been cleared recently. 33 is ac clutch relay or short. I dont have ac.
 
I swapped this '90 318 TBI setup over to Carberated with manual fuel pump. Standard mopar brain box and distributor.

Runs great, no goofing trying to diagnose old computers and throttle body systems.

Old School, Popped it into my '76 D100 with the 727 auto. Working real nice, fires up like it has fuel injection with the mopar mini starter installed. Like the added bonus of the 4 barrel to play with too.

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A plan B if the old original electronics don't come around for you.
 
The electronics are a huge pain in the *** when they fail.
 
Egr. Pull it and make a block off.
 
And coolant temp sensor,not the one for gauge. Theres 2.
And its cheap. Check the grounds by the sensor too b
 
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