Depends on what you're going for. If you're looking for the factory ride height specs, then you need to measure like the factory did. The "V&L" carline applies to A-bodies
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That said, you don't need to use the factory ride height specs (especially if you're not running factory stock suspension). I'd argue that you don't even
want the factory ride height for best handling, but that also depends on other changes to the suspension.
If all you're looking for is the car to be at the ride height you want and level side to side, the rockers are plenty good enough. You may also want to consider adding weight to the driver's seat, because the height empty and the height with a driver will not be the same. That will also change the static alignment.
And of course, if you're using radial tires, don't use the factory alignment specs either, start with the SKOSH chart. The ride height and your suspension set up may make some of these numbers unattainable though.
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Bullshit. Nothing could be further from the truth. These cars can be pretty easily aligned to a high degree of accuracy with some pretty simple tools and a little practice.
And the fancy alignment racks at the modern tire shop are pretty much useless, because the majority of those shops will put the car "in the computer", and get back the factory specs. Which are completely wrong for radial tires. And that assumes the tech will have the foggiest idea of what to do with an old mopar, which I can say many of them will not. I bought my own alignment gear and do all of my alignments at home, because quite frankly I haven't run into an alignment tech in years that I trusted to turn wrenches on the suspension I run on my Mopars. Maybe if all there was to adjust was the camber bolts. But with adjustable UCA's, adjustable strut rods, and numerous modified and aftermarket parts most shops don't even want to touch my car, let alone align it to custom specs.
