One wire alternator nonsense
If it's burned that bad you have a bit of work, here's what it goes and does.
Goes from the alternator through the bulkhead connector to the ammeter BUT a few inches FROM the ammeter there is the infamous big welded splice. If you are going to bypass the ammeter, and I'd consider that, you must power that splice. So however you get power into the car, which used to be the RED ammeter wire, you need to hook that splice to the red, ammeter or no
Read the MAD article, the diagram there shows basic power distro. You don't "HAVE" to fix this as MAD does. You can either replace/ repair the connector, or drill through the holes and run at least some NO10 through there without the connectors. You can parallel two if you are eliminating the ammeter. In other words (if so) run two from the battery, through a big fuse/ fuse link through the connector and tie them together inside, and spice in the "welded splice" to get power where it needs to go
Catalog
If it's burned that bad you have a bit of work, here's what it goes and does.
Goes from the alternator through the bulkhead connector to the ammeter BUT a few inches FROM the ammeter there is the infamous big welded splice. If you are going to bypass the ammeter, and I'd consider that, you must power that splice. So however you get power into the car, which used to be the RED ammeter wire, you need to hook that splice to the red, ammeter or no
Read the MAD article, the diagram there shows basic power distro. You don't "HAVE" to fix this as MAD does. You can either replace/ repair the connector, or drill through the holes and run at least some NO10 through there without the connectors. You can parallel two if you are eliminating the ammeter. In other words (if so) run two from the battery, through a big fuse/ fuse link through the connector and tie them together inside, and spice in the "welded splice" to get power where it needs to go
Catalog
