Testing gauges with new voltage limiter
You seem to be a bit aggravated, Redfish. I'm just trying to make sure that I have everything set up properly so I don't ruin a totally good Rallye dash. I appreciate the input.[/QUOTE
Yeah, I'm a grumpy old fart. My "reel time"? I need to go fishing.
Switched 12 volts goes to the limiter or regulator, wherever it is located. If you no longer use the original limiter in the fuel gauge 12 volts shouldn't go to the fuel gauge. If this fuel gauge is going to be just like any 2 post gauge it should be isolated from chassis ground just like any 2 post gauge. If you lift your oil and temp gauges you will see where the housing is cut away behind them. They mount to circuit board only. Lift your fuel gauge and you will see a piece of metal on the back of the gauge and a unpainted spot where that piece of metal contacts the housing. That is/was chassis ground for the internal limiter. Simply cover than piece of metal with electric tape. 5 volts will go from external/addon limiter or regulator, to and through all the gauges just like a standard instrument panel. There is nothing "engineering" about it.
If you already opened your gauge to disable the original limiter... fine. Just know that doing so wasn't absolutely necessary. If you dont put 12 volts to it, Dont give the gauge can a chassis ground, Limiter is disabled. 5 volts cant find a complete path to anywhere besides though the gauge and sender.
