Troubles taking a 360 .060?

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moper said:
3.58 or 4" stroke?
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4"
With the SRP 335151 Pistons I'm looking at, these would actually be my compression ratios.

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You were actually the main person I listened to when I started putting this engine together in 2006.
 
Hope it's a race fuel engine with those ratios.
Honestly I'd probably leave it. it's already marginal for what I'd like to see on three cylinders for that level. So you can spend more money, waste more time, or just ignore the minor scratches and move on.
 
moper said:
Hope it's a race fuel engine with those ratios.
Honestly I'd probably leave it. it's already marginal for what I'd like to see on three cylinders for that level. So you can spend more money, waste more time, or just ignore the minor scratches and move on.
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I'm on the fence about it. I told the shop to fix the caps and align hone for now. With the new cam only, it will be at this -

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Still a little high for my tastes, although admittedly those have changed over time. I think the best (highest value) path is just leave the bores as long as they are round and straight.
 
moper said:
Still a little high for my tastes, although admittedly those have changed over time. I think the best (highest value) path is just leave the bores as long as they are round and straight.
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I'm not a pro with a .0001 dial bore gauge, but this is what I got.
I think at this point, I'm going to take your advice. I really don't want to pour more money into this block. Cam, all new bearings, rings, and the cap work are plenty. I was about to start work on my factory 400 shortblock when all this crap happened.

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What happened on 8? They don't look that bad to me. But you have to realize the power level will take a hit from worn bores and ring lands too.
 
moper said:
What happened on 8? They don't look that bad to me. But you have to realize the power level will take a hit from worn bores and ring lands too.
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Not sure, maybe I did it with the 180 grit ball hone, or it could have always been that way. The measurements weren't taken until after the 180 and 320 honing I did to deglaze. I bought new rings, but have not installed them yet. I didn't see any issues with the old one's, but thought maybe I should just put new ones in.
 
It looked like the measuring didn't go well...lol. Anyway I don't think you will be disappointed running it as is. Freshen and fix, and build the B wedge.
 
moper said:
It looked like the measuring didn't go well...lol. Anyway I don't think you will be disappointed running it as is. Freshen and fix, and build the B wedge.
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Uhhh...yeah....lol!
Thanks for the advice. You've been helping me for a lot of years now. I friend requested you on FB. Your input basically designed this engine, which coincidentally, was almost part for part Blueprint's crate motor, way before they did it. Keep an eye out for my impending thread of questions on building that 400 into a low budget low-deck Mustang humiliator.
 
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That's gonna need a spike with race gas.
 
I had a 1980 360 block that sonic checked .090 at standard bore..........consider it good practice to have it sonic checked
 
moper said:
Did I answer? Sorry but FB for me is a challenge on a bunch of levels...lol.
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Not yet. Lol! Click on the thing with the plus sign to the right of the house looking thingy and you should see my friend request.(Ty Hewatt)
 
siuauto, I still think you have a numbers issue that you must be very careful about. For example if you buy the Molnar crank for your 360 block and if it only is available for 2.100 chevy rods you still have a mismatch. Altho not specifically mentioned if your rods are 2.125 throws there's still a little .025 problem that should be considered in that you would need a different crank or a different set of rods. Just something I noticed in all the numbers being thrown around. Good luck!!!
 
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