My car keeps over heating when I’m driving

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Had the same problem years ago- your fan looks small for the application/ light a smoke
Right or left handed one your choice put it up to the rad to see how well it is working drawing it through which will also tell you if it’s a pusher or puller. You move have to buy or fashion a shroud
 
RustyRatRod said:
A typical street hot rod engine needs about 4000 CFM of air movement through the radiator. 2600 ain't gonna make it.
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not true at all. You need a quality fan with a good motor on it that draws 20+ amps. If the fan isn't drawing at least that much, its a cheezy parts store fan.
I run a moroso electric water pump, a radiator that looks pretty much identical to the one the OP has, and this Derale fan( quality US made unit that puts out a true 2000 Cfm)
And my 69 Dart that runs 11.20’s currently( new motor going in) and sees plenty of street duty never gets above 185 even in traffic. Had an 8 inch convertor, big cam, yada, yada. Flat hood, no fresh air scoop, etc.
This same setup with a cheezy 16 inch Permacool I think it was ran hot at stoplights cruising. The two fans “ looked” the same, and are same size. Moral of the story, not all fans are created equal, and it doesn't take 4000 cfm to keep a hot rod cool( and my water pump isn't a fancy Mezeire or CSR
Just the fan upgrade fixed all issues
H.O. Extreme : 16" High Output Curved Blade IP68 Electric Puller Fan
 
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B3422w5 said:
not true at all. You need a quality fan with a good motor on it that draws 20+ amps. If the fan isn't drawing at least that much, its a cheezy parts store fan.
I run a moroso electric water pump, a radiator that looks pretty much identical to the one the OP has, and this Derale fan( quality US made unit that puts out a true 2000 Cfm)
And my 69 Dart that runs 11.20’s currently( new motor going in) and sees plenty of street duty never gets above 185 even in traffic. Had an 8 inch convertor, big cam, yada, yada. Flat hood, no fresh air scoop, etc.
This same setup with a cheezy 16 inch Permacool I think it was ran hot at stoplights cruising. The two fans “ looked” the same, and are same size. Moral of the story, not all fans are created equal, and it doesn't take 4000 cfm to keep a hot rod cool( and my water pump isn't a fancy Mezeire or CSR
Just the fan upgrade fixed all issues
H.O. Extreme : 16" High Output Curved Blade IP68 Electric Puller Fan
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Actually, it is true, if you don't want the radiator to be over taxed. This has been the rule of thumb for decades.

You and the rest of these guys run your cooling system however you want to. It doesn't bother me. I always chuckle when I see these threads anyway, because nobody ever listens.

Carry on.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Actually, it is true, if you don't want the radiator to be over taxed. This has been the rule of thumb for decades.

You and the rest of these guys run your cooling system however you want to. It doesn't bother me. I always chuckle when I see these threads anyway, because nobody ever listens.

Carry on.
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I EXPERIMENTED W/ ABOUT EVERYTHING BUT A CONTOUR FAN LAST SUMMER , NO ELEC. I tried worked , even had 2 pullers and a pusher on it at once. Keeping 505'' cool in okla. heat , in an engine bay thats too small to start with aint easy .
Coated headers might help some , but qaint in the budget. The under hood heat is so high that its deformed/melted the hood vent on the pass. side.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Actually, it is true, if you don't want the radiator to be over taxed. This has been the rule of thumb for decades.

You and the rest of these guys run your cooling system however you want to. It doesn't bother me. I always chuckle when I see these threads anyway, because nobody ever listens.

Carry on.
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actually it isnt. I am far from a green pea. What i said is true. I race my car all the time, and drive it on the street a ton. It never gets hot. If it did i would fix it.
Got no reason to lie to you, plenty of people on here know me.
 
B3422w5 said:
actually it isnt. I am far from a green pea. What i said is true. I race my car all the time, and drive it on the street a ton. It never gets hot. If it did i would fix it.
Got no reason to lie to you, plenty of people on here know me.
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that dont keep mine cool --------michigan has lower heat and humidity on the average than we do to start with , and ''always '' has better air .
 
famous bob said:
that dont keep mine cool --------michigan has lower heat and humidity on the average than we do to start with , and ''always '' has better air .
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very true. I don't drive around when its in the 90’s out. I drive something with air so i don't sweat to death.
That said, it does get hot and humid here, i am 1/2 hour from Indiana line
Lived in Austin, Texas for 5 years when i got out if the military, so i know hot..lol....
 
B3422w5 said:
very true. I don't drive around when its in the 90’s out. I drive something with air so i don't sweat to death.
That said, it does get hot and humid here, i am 1/2 hour from Indiana line
Lived in Austin, Texas for 5 years when i got out if the military, so i know hot..lol....
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Yeah, buddy! I live just north of San Antonio.... and we know heat! Need to get out before 10am to beat the summer heat!
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
Yeah, buddy! I live just north of San Antonio.... and we know heat! Need to get out before 10am to beat the summer heat!
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u bunch of p------- , I drive mine more in the 90`s heat than any other time , 98 and up not so much -humidity has a bunch to do w/ it .


-------------------lol
 
famous bob said:
u bunch of p------- , I drive mine more in the 90`s heat than any other time , 98 and up not so much -humidity has a bunch to do w/ it .


-------------------lol
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Hey, to each his own!! Without A/C, it is not pleasant to drive stuck in traffic without any airflow. I didn't buy my car to be a rolling sweatbox!
 
Fighting a lot heat there in that engine bay and that high output engine.

Need additional cooling outside the engine bay. Tap into your heater core feed hoses and feed to another core under the car to dissipate the heat out to the outside air.

Creative hot rodding . . think outside the box. Just like adding an additional tranny cooler to pull heat out of automatic transmissions.

Lol . . Scratching his Head . . . . .
 
General rule in the Air Conditioning World:
(and a law of physics besides)

HEAT TRAVELS TO LESSER HEAT !

So when the engine bay is already maxxed out on additional heat from the engine and headers, there is no place for the heat in the radiator to travel to lesser heat.

So unfortunately the heat stays in the cooling system and the engine over heats.

Put a set of stock cast iron exhaust manifolds on the engine, that will send the exhaust heat out to the back of the car.

Header tubes in the engine bay radiate lots of heat up into the engine bay, heat rises up. Lots of surface area there on the header tubes to transfer heat from.

Get a set of the HP Factory exhaust manifolds, (factory 340 exhaust manifolds work well on the small blocks) and 2 1/2" exhaust system all the way out the back, heat goes out the back too.

You can thank me later.
Good Luck on the car.

Screenshot_20210417-075145_Gallery.jpg


IMG952019030995103236847.jpg


20200415_213448.jpg
 
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Ricks70Duster340 said:
Hey, to each his own!! Without A/C, it is not pleasant to drive stuck in traffic without any airflow. I didn't buy my car to be a rolling sweatbox!
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I didn`t buy mine , I built it to run , still working on that tho-----------
 
George Jets said:
General rule in the Air Conditioning World:
(and a law of physics besides)

HEAT TRAVELS TO LESSER HEAT !

So when the engine bay is already maxxed out on additional heat from the engine and headers, there is no place for the heat in the radiator to travel to lesser heat.

So unfortunately the heat stays in the cooling system and the engine over heats.

Put a set of stock cast iron exhaust manifolds on the engine, that will send the exhaust heat out to the back of the car.

Header tubes in the engine bay radiate lots of heat up into the engine bay, heat rises up. Lots of surface area there on the header tubes to transfer heat from.

Get a set of the HP Factory exhaust manifolds, (factory 340 exhaust manifolds work well on the small blocks) and 2 1/2" exhaust system all the way out the back, heat goes out the back too.

You can thank me later.
Good Luck on the car.

View attachment 1715724649

View attachment 1715724650

View attachment 1715724651
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Just ordered some thermal barrier coated headers for that reason .
 
Ricks70Duster340 said:
Hey, to each his own!! Without A/C, it is not pleasant to drive stuck in traffic without any airflow. I didn't buy my car to be a rolling sweatbox!
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Gotta agree , if I`m dressed up ,I dont want to sweat , just screwing around in the summer , no problem .
I f u work in a.c. its worse, in the summer I go outside and stay out there all day , the temps come up / u get used to it as it does .
 
famous bob said:
Gotta agree , if I`m dressed up ,I dont want to sweat , just screwing around in the summer , no problem .
I f u work in a.c. its worse, in the summer I go outside and stay out there all day , the temps come up / u get used to it as it does .
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Yeah, I'm an IT man, so usually work in a very comfortable environment. Stepping out of that into an oven is no fun!!! Years ago, I had a '68 Valiant (with a black interior) that I put a 360 into. Car ran very hot, and one day I was stuck in traffic for an unusually long time during the Summer. I know the engine was hot because it started running funny. I turned on the heater & put it into neutral to try and alleviate some heat. When I got home, my wife saw me and threw a wet towel on my back to cool me off. She said I looked really bad and I might be on the verge of heatstroke. That's no fun at all!
 
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